outdoor kitchen and oven base

[Campmaki]

Oven vent and chimney throat

Just a few photos of last weekends work. Included is a shot of the stainless flashing pan I installed under the vent/landing floor. It is 3 sided and was placed in a rich cement/sand mix and pitched outward to shed water. Also did a little grinding and rubbing of the "throat" brick to help with smoke flow.

[Campmaki]

Steel stud and cement board enclousure

Went with structural steel studs, FREE, as my backup wall system. Coupled that with 1/2 in. cement board and Tremco moisture and air barrier. The barrier was applied after brushing on a solvent based primer. Hope I am not making a big bomb, but logic tells me everything with be OK, simply because the dome will be insulated with 3 in. of ceramic blanket and the system is outside the area where the heat is. Plus I am going to fill the rest of the box full of vermiculite.

[Campmaki]

Enclosure brick and bond

Finally my last post. Laid a rowlock course, all 4 sides. Followed that with a flemished bond course. These 2 courses each stepped out a half an inch. This will give me a 6 inch ledge on 3 sides once the granite slabs are set in place. The same granite will go across the oven side and into the vent floor, up to the back leg of the stainless pan, which I hope acts as a heat break. This ledge will be 8 in. deep. The brick bond on the wall is flemished and the joints are V jointed. The brick I am using are modular in size and are nice to lay because they are straight and true. Because of this I decided to use a sled runner on the bed joints. I like nice straight joints. Once I am up to the top of the stud wall the brick will step back to create another ledge.I will post more photos after next weekends work.

[stonecutter]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Looks great..nice and neat. You did good job on the joint work too.

[Campmaki]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Stonecutter, so whats your opinion on my granite going all the way to the heat break? I put the stainless pan on a outward pitch,on top of the pan needs to be built up to accept 1 1/4 in thick granite.This will flush out with the dome floor. I am thinking about an inch thick piece of ceramic board as the heat break, 4 1/2 in. high. But what do you think I should use under the granite? Rips of fire brick? One thing I need to make sure is the stainless steel pan doesn't get over 155 degrees, this could be tough to do. At the outside edge of the pan is where the vapor barrier is attached. The pan is 16 in. deep. Give me your thoughts, Wayne, and thanks for the kind compliments on my work. All I can say if I hope the hell my vapor barrier doesn't end up in a black puddle.

[stonecutter]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Stonecutter, so whats your opinion on my granite going all the way to the heat break? I put the stainless pan on a outward pitch,on top of the pan needs to be built up to accept 1 1/4 in thick granite.This will flush out with the dome floor. I am thinking about an inch thick piece of ceramic board as the heat break, 4 1/2 in. high. But what do you think I should use under the granite? Rips of fire brick? One thing I need to make sure is the stainless steel pan doesn't get over 155 degrees, this could be tough to do. At the outside edge of the pan is where the vapor barrier is attached. The pan is 16 in. deep. Give me your thoughts, Wayne, and thanks for the kind compliments on my work. All I can say if I hope the hell my vapor barrier doesn't end up in a black puddle.

I'm not sure what you mean exactly. How about a sketch?

[Campmaki]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Stone cutter, So let me try again. In my vent area, I installed a 3 sided flashing pan, see my previous posts and pictures. The pan goes from the thermal break I created at the oven entrance outward to the vent floors outer edge. I extended the pan under the vent sidewalls. When I installed the pan, I put a rich grout mixture under the pan to attain pitch outward. So right now I have just the pan in the vent area on the concrete slab with the semi circular vent arch sitting on the pan. I cut the first course of firebrick to get them back to level because the pan is pitched towards the outside. So at the inner pans edge which is the transition from oven dome to floor of vent, I have 4 1/2 in. {2 1/2 in firebrick plus 2 in ceramic floor insulation minus 1/2 in that the pan is raised up. I plan on putting granite slabs on the brick ledges I have built and this same granite will flow into the vent area as the floor. What would you put under the granite? The granite is 1 1/4 in. thick, so I have 2 3/4 inches that needs to be put under the granite. I do not want to put insulation under it, because it could get wet. Would you put fire brick under the granite? How important is it to have the vent floor insulated? It doesn't need to be , does it? Here are 2 pictures showing my flashing pan. One being a side view, the other a front view at the vent. Wayne

[Campmaki]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Hello builders, well another fairly productive weekend. Insulated my 42" dome with 3" of ceramic blanket first thing Saturday morning. Then got on to the backup steel studs and cement/ vapor barrier. Decided it was time to fire up the baby. started with a small fire and put a little temperature gauge inside to keep an eye on. At one point it read 400 degrees, so I let it burn down a little and added a single piece of wood every so often. One thing I did notice was the blanket seemed to be smoking. I touched it and it was damp. Drawing the little bit of moisture out of the firebrick that is left. I think? My foundation and slab were poured last summer, so I believe I have very little moisture there. It is covered all the time unless I am working on it. I did get one little crack right in the center of the vent arch, and I think this happened because I ground out the joints and pointed them up last weekend. Nothing too major, just a crack.Got up this morning and temp read 225 degrees, with no door on the entrance to the oven. I like how this baby is already holding heat. Started another fire this morning. At one point I noticed the whole dome was soot covered except the center of the ceiling. Later in the afternoon I noticed, as can be seen in one of the pictures that the soot had disappeared from some of the back wall. Also less moisture/ dampness on the ceramic blanket. One concern I had is no longer that, my peel and stick Tremco vapor barrier. My concern was it could drool because of heat. It got warm to the touch and think some of it was actually the sun shining on the west wall. As far as my stainless steel flashing pan, the heat only traveled out a few inches. Once the thermal break, using some ceramic insulation is in place, the pan will do what it is intended to do. Here are a few pictures. I am hoping after the 4th of July weekend, I am done with the chimney. next weekend some more curing, I realize it should be done in progression, day after day but I am at the campground only on weekends.

[Campmaki]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

And a few more pictures to post, Just wanted to say thanks to everyone with input and thoughts helping my build with issues. I am just like most on this site, building their first oven. Thanks to the many who have made this site what it has become. Wayne

[NCMan]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Wayne....great looking job. Time to enjoy!!

[stonecutter]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Stone cutter, So let me try again. In my vent area, I installed a 3 sided flashing pan, see my previous posts and pictures. The pan goes from the thermal break I created at the oven entrance outward to the vent floors outer edge. I extended the pan under the vent sidewalls. When I installed the pan, I put a rich grout mixture under the pan to attain pitch outward. So right now I have just the pan in the vent area on the concrete slab with the semi circular vent arch sitting on the pan. I cut the first course of firebrick to get them back to level because the pan is pitched towards the outside. So at the inner pans edge which is the transition from oven dome to floor of vent, I have 4 1/2 in. {2 1/2 in firebrick plus 2 in ceramic floor insulation minus 1/2 in that the pan is raised up. I plan on putting granite slabs on the brick ledges I have built and this same granite will flow into the vent area as the floor. What would you put under the granite? The granite is 1 1/4 in. thick, so I have 2 3/4 inches that needs to be put under the granite. I do not want to put insulation under it, because it could get wet. Would you put fire brick under the granite? How important is it to have the vent floor insulated? It doesn't need to be , does it? Here are 2 pictures showing my flashing pan. One being a side view, the other a front view at the vent. Wayne

Wayne, sorry I missed this.

OK...what I am going to assume is that you are keeping the continuous plane of the granite the same all the way around the oven and across the face of your vent opening. That will create a reveal of granite from one side of your vent arch to the other along the springline...right? So, you asked what I would do...here it is.

I would rip a piece of granite at 2 3/4" and set it like a riser across the vent opening. Then behind it, I would make some perlcrete at 8-10:1 and put a bed down flush with the granite riser...it will be below your hearth floor height by 3(-) cm. Finally, set your granite vent landing on top of the perlcrete and set it flush with your hearth floor using a slush mortar, which can be made of the component mix or just a standard type S mortar.

Doing it this way doesn't create a joint between your landing floor and riser so if you want one, cut the riser accordingly.

[Campmaki]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

OK so now I am a little confused. Where does the 2 3/4" rip go? To the back at the oven entrance/ back of pan? Is this acting as a thermal break? I was thinking of using some ceramic blanket, 3 1/2 to 4 " wide x 1" wide stood up at the transition point. Then I was going with your original post on how to seal this joint. As far as the perlite mixture, this will give the the landing some insulating value? How will a weep system work when everything is solid under the granite? This is why I was thinking firebrick rips under the granite. I could leave some slots or alleys from the moisture to run down. I am having a hard time seeing what you are thinking.

[stonecutter]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

OK so now I am a little confused. Where does the 2 3/4" rip go? To the back at the oven entrance/ back of pan? Is this acting as a thermal break? I was thinking of using some ceramic blanket, 3 1/2 to 4 " wide x 1" wide stood up at the transition point. Then I was going with your original post on how to seal this joint. As far as the perlite mixture, this will give the the landing some insulating value? How will a weep system work when everything is solid under the granite? This is why I was thinking firebrick rips under the granite. I could leave some slots or alleys from the moisture to run down. I am having a hard time seeing what you are thinking.

I don't see a problem if you wanted to use brick under the granite, if you think that much water is going to get in there. Just keep in mind that voids that drain also hold frozen water too. Perlcrete is fairly permeable...though I wouldn't call it free draining. I personally prefer to bed stone as solidly as possible. As for insulation under the vent floor, it doesn't matter if you do or not.

I suggested the rip because I'm not sure how you are planning to transition the height difference between your hearth floor and the granite coping. The rip piece goes across the face of your arch like a riser, the granite vent hearth piece lays over it like a tread. So if you are looking at your vent arch from the side, you won't see the difference in hearth height.

[Campmaki]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

Ok so now I get your thought. Would you use the ceramic insulation as a thermal break just behind the riser? You mentioned in an earlier post about capping this off with some homebrew or was it something else? The reason as you know, with the water drainage slots is to get it out along with the pitched pan. Something totally solid will make it for water to drain. The drawback is a subsurface that has voids. With that in mind, a dropped log or tool could cause damage to the granite. The slots would need to be narrow. Thinking of maybe cotton rope wicks but these have been proven to be not effective over time. Maybe they could be installed longer and your mix put in place. Then pull them out after everything is hard. I believe we have a plan, thanks S.C.

[stonecutter]

Re: outdoor kitchen and oven base

I'm going to do a napkin sketch...give me 15 mintutes.