Re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
Sorry for my bad english,i am Greek.
My question is for the cement bricks and how to place.
Someone told the that the holes must me look in earth and the bottom on sky.
This is correct?
I plan to mortar only the corners.
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My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
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Re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
George.....I'd be glad to help, but I'm not sure I understand your question. Are your blocks not hollow all the way through? As far as I can tell by your photos, it looks fine. Blocks here actually do have a top and bottom, but it's more for convenience than structure. The middle webbing is sometimes wider on the top and it's done so it makes it easier to grab and place. If that is what you are referring to, don't worry about it. Do you plan to mortar all your block or drystack the rest?
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Re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
Next step completed!
I think i did well because this is the first time who build
How do you see my first attempt?
I have a question.
Someone told me that the correct position of the cement bricks is to build with the holes down.
Here, i saw that all who made the stand for the base, build the cement bricks with the holes up.
Can somebody say few words about this
I hope that i don't made a mistake.
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Re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
Yes it's only cement but they make it here in Greece. Called Titan or Hercules.
Thanks!
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Re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
Basic cement powder should be "Portland Cement". It is only cement, nothing else in the bag.
I agree, the already portioned Masonry Cement and Masonry Mortar might not be available. Good luck!
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Re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
In my country i haven't seen before porlant cement,so is difficult to find.
I will use common cement powder not pre-mixed.
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Re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
With this not being a high-load structure in my opinion you can use either a Type S or Type N. "S" is stronger, but being above grade, either mix will suffice.
A generic "S" recipe is one part portland cement, one half that amount of hydrated lime, add those two together (1.5 parts) then multiply by three, and the latter is your amount of sand. So a 1 to 0.5 to 4.5, or more commonly and more easily written as 2:1:9, two parts portland cement, one part lime, nine parts sand.
A Type N mix is meant for above grade exterior work. It doesn't have as high a compressive strength as an "S" mix. It's a 1:1:6 ratio of portland, lime, and sand.
As the other guys mentioned, there certainly are a lot of variations out there, they're often tweaked for what you are building and the material you're working with.
Most places sell bags of "portland cement". If you find bags of "Masonry Cement" for sale, they're usually labelled as "Type S" or Type N Masonry Cement". In that case, you'd just add sand to the masonry cement, as the bag already contains the proper portion of portand cement and lime. As well as maybe a few other additives. Mix directions should be on the bag.
If you find bags of "Masonry Mortar", all you have to do is add water. Masonry Mortar contains properly portioned portland cement, lime, and sand.
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Re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
If all goes well with the weather i will start the contruction tomorrow.
The weather today is raining and i can't do anything.
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Re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
Sounds good George. Seems to be quite a bit of variation that are all acceptable for sticking blocks together.
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Re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
Hi Tony,
Asked a person who knows about concrete and told me, 1 cement 3 sand 1 lime.
Thanks!
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Re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
Regular mortar? Think it's 1 cement 2 lime and 3 sand.. or something like that. I just buy premixed stuff. For the oven itself I used heatstop 50
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re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
Originally posted by George_M View PostHi,
Today i plan to make the concrete for the foundation.
The ratio 1 cement-2 sand-1 gravel is acceptable for strong concrete?
I recommend you remove all organic materials from where the slab will be poured. Roots, top soil, etc. If the slab is poured over topsoil, the organic material in the top soil will break down and decompose over time, resulting in voids under the slab. Voids can cause the slab to settle in an uneven fashion. That can result in cracking.
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re: My first attempt for 42" oven / changed to 36"
Originally posted by George_M View PostHi,
Today i plan to make the concrete for the foundation.
The ratio 1 cement-2 sand-1 gravel is acceptable for strong concrete?
In the U.S we call mixes 5 sack, 6 sack etc. I usually try for a 6 sack mix
Mixing ratio to make 1 yard of concrete
To produce a 3000 psi cubic yard of concrete (27 cubic feet) the concrete mixture ratio is:
1. 517 pounds of cement
2. 1560 pounds of sand
3. 1600 pounds of stone
4. 32 - 34 gallons of water
This mixing ratio will give you a concrete mix that is strong, durable, and good for most concrete projects. A cubic yard of concrete will fill an area 8 feet wide by 10 feet long by 4 inches thick, or 80 square feet @ 4 inches thick.
At 6 inches thick a cubic yard of concrete will fill an area 52 square feet and at 5 inches thick, it will fill an area that's 65 square feet.
To produce a cubic yard of 4000 psi concrete, you have to adjust the concrete mixing ratio to:
1. 611 pounds of cement
2. 1450 pounds of sand
3. 1600 pounds of stone
4. 33- 35 gallons of water
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