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Nathan's 36" SoCal WFO build

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  • n8huntsman
    replied
    Re: Nathan's 36" SoCal WFO build

    Called around the local shops today to find out what kinda of firebrick I can get and what the cost is.
    I can get the following:
    Pacific Clay - $1.33
    HC Muddox - $1.75
    Whitacre - $1.86

    The Pacific Clay is a little light on the alumina content, 21%. I've read that that will still be fine for a pizza oven. With those prices, does that sound like the logical choice?
    Thanks

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  • n8huntsman
    replied
    Re: Nathan's 36" SoCal WFO build

    Here is what I was thinking about above. It makes the stacked stone and concrete much nicer. I think this is how I'm gonna do it. I just gotta figure out how to do the thermal break.
    Last edited by n8huntsman; 12-06-2014, 11:02 AM.

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  • n8huntsman
    replied
    Re: Nathan's 36" SoCal WFO build

    I decided I needed a small landing in front of the arch because I need a lip to conceal the stacked stone (not shown) that will be placed on the face of the block stand.

    I was thinking about getting rid of the bricks that are shown under the arch and replacing it with concrete poured in a single pour with the curved landing. The arch would be built on top of the concrete instead of the brick. Of course I'd have to separate it and the arch from the cooking floor and dome with a thermal break.

    Are there any drawbacks in doing that?
    Last edited by n8huntsman; 12-03-2014, 07:18 PM.

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  • Tonyp
    replied
    Re: Nathan's 36" SoCal WFO build

    Hi Nathan,

    I can't imagine you would have an issue spanning across the opening in front between the blocks. In addition to the rebar grid throughout the concrete slab, I would probably put a couple pieces of 1/2" rebar a few inches apart across that gap.

    As far as a moisture barrier, my build is fairly unconventional and indoors so moisture is not an issue. Hopefully someone with more knowledge about outdoor builds and potential issues with moisture getting into the insulation and hearth brick layer can give you advice. I have read many build threads so am only going on what I have seen others do in these situations.

    My understanding is the potential for moisture to travel up the block wall and into the hearth from below. So a moisture barrier is a good plan, either between the top of the block and concrete hearth or between the concrete hearth and insulation layer. I think if it were me I would be looking at some 2mil plastic on top of the block that way if for some reason moisture did get into the concrete hearth or the insulation layer above it, air could get at from below.

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  • n8huntsman
    replied
    Re: Nathan's 36" SoCal WFO build

    Originally posted by Tonyp View Post
    Hi Nathan,

    I was looking at your other thread earlier. Looking nice! I really like the decking you put down.

    Not sure I fully understand what you mean by span the opening. Do you mean across the front between the gap in the blocks? The concrete hearth reinforced properly with rebar shouldn't need any support under it once cured. I think most people use concrete backer board under the hearth to make the pour. You just need to support the backer board from underneath to hold the weight of the uncured concrete. Not sure what your plans are for finishing the outside of the block and oven but do keep in mind keeping the occasional rain from getting into your insulation/cooking floor. One of the ways that can happen is via the block wall. So you might consider a moisture barrier between the top of the block and the bottom of the hearth slab, if not there then between the top of the hearth slab and bottom of the insulation layer.
    You are correct, I meant across the front between the gap in the blocks. I see most people use some angle iron with an additional two block on top. My opening is only 16" so I opted to omit that block across the top to increase my limited access to the inside. Good to know that it will be okay without the angle iron.

    I haven't decided yet how I'm going to finish it. Leaning towards either a beehive with some sort of stucco, or building an enclosure with some sort of fa?ade.

    I can see how a moisture barrier between the hearth and bottom of the insulation would help. What do most people use for this?

    You also mention a moisture barrier between the top of the block and the bottom of the hearth slab... are you saying that the insulation will wick moisture up from the block?

    Leave a comment:


  • Tonyp
    replied
    Re: Nathan's 36" SoCal WFO build

    Hi Nathan,

    I was looking at your other thread earlier. Looking nice! I really like the decking you put down.

    Not sure I fully understand what you mean by span the opening. Do you mean across the front between the gap in the blocks? The concrete hearth reinforced properly with rebar shouldn't need any support under it once cured. I think most people use concrete backer board under the hearth to make the pour. You just need to support the backer board from underneath to hold the weight of the uncured concrete. Not sure what your plans are for finishing the outside of the block and oven but do keep in mind keeping the occasional rain from getting into your insulation/cooking floor. One of the ways that can happen is via the block wall. So you might consider a moisture barrier between the top of the block and the bottom of the hearth slab, if not there then between the top of the hearth slab and bottom of the insulation layer.

    Leave a comment:


  • n8huntsman
    replied
    Re: Nathan's 36" SoCal WFO build

    I'm going to start filling the cores today. I still need to figure out how to span the opening while supporting the concrete hearth.

    Leave a comment:


  • n8huntsman
    started a topic Nathan's 36" SoCal WFO build

    Nathan's 36" SoCal WFO build

    I've been working on a roof and deck for my outdoor kitchen for about a year. Outdoor kitchen thread is here: http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f35/...ild-20331.html

    Since I just started on the WFO, I guess it's time to start a thread for it.

    Here is the initial design.
    Last edited by n8huntsman; 11-30-2014, 04:41 PM.
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