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39 inch Corner Build

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  • patjer1
    replied
    Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
    I used Uni-Extreme made by McGill Airseal it is good to 2400 F and environmentally friendly. I is NOT silicon based and sets up firm. Used it to seal in my CF rope on my arch heat break. [ATTACH=CONFIG]n383234[/ATTACH]
    No need to have any flex in it?

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Roof is holding up well, at least no leaks . The wind certainly pointed out the need for getting my walls upthough, but still haven't settled on the final dome finish, which I wanted to complete before I block off access.
    I'll post on how well the gasket works, but holding in all the hot air and not bleeding BTU's off the inner arch via direct contact with the door outer face has to be an improvement.

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  • SableSprings
    replied
    I thought I'd better check my memory on my door's weight...it actually weighed in at 17.8 lbs not 25 as I posted earlier. I'm thinking of trying the green egg gasket as well...so very interested in if you think it makes a difference. Incidentally, how's your roof holding up with this last week of heavy wind & rain?

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    I now have an "official" weight on my door - 10lb 9oz. Seems pretty good for a 4" door. The face sheet gets pretty warm but I guess that is to be expected sitting up against the hot inner arch. Just got my green egg gasket so will have to install it and see how much warmer the oven stays, and how much cooler the door is.

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Yes, I checked out your door before I built mine - part of the reason I went with the 4" thickness
    The roof is great and we have been doing plenty of cooking in bad weather, but the rain is supposed to be horizontal later today . I have a tarp wrapped around the back side of the oven to try to keep the slab dry since the walls are not up. We are expecting to lose power tonight so planning on firing up the oven later today for pizza tonight and chickens tomorrow.
    Hope your party doesn't get rained out!
    PS, I just figured out what your "sigil" is - how fitting.
    Last edited by JRPizza; 10-15-2016, 11:26 AM.

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  • Larry P
    replied
    ...and keep dry! I imagine that roof is really coming in handy this week. We're having a party tonight and the rain is supposed to move in around 6. I'll probably regret not building a roof :O

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  • Larry P
    replied
    Nice looking door. Mine is a clamshell that's bolted together, 3.5" thick and filled with 4" of CF board. I used 1/2" thick square ceramic fiber rope to take up the 1/2" gap between the front of the door and the back. I used a dab of high-heat caulk on the cut ends of the rope to keep them from fraying.

    In the end, I found I was getting leakage around the edge of the door, so I went back and put a nomex gasket on the lip. It works much better now. I used nomex because that's what I use on my BGE and I had lots of it laying around.

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Ahh, I had forgotten that the rope was glass fiber - guess I'll follow Deejayoh's lead and get the nomex version

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  • Gulf
    replied
    I haven't ordered felt gasket yet. I am glad to hear that it is holding up. If I do order gasket material for the door, that is what it will be. I am a little worried about the fibers shedding from the ceramic fiber gasket material. I don't think that I would use it for a door seal.

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  • fnbroken
    replied
    man...I can get you guys to post me things? This stuff is SOOOOO expensive here!

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  • deejayoh
    replied
    I think you will find that the felt gasket will work better than the rope - it's flatter and has a little "give". it has adhesive backing too. I just scrubbed off the creosote with a wire brush and it's been fine.

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    I forgot to mention that the door is 4" deep (edited above) and that I chose not to add a thru door thermometer. I have estimated the weight without handles to be at just about 9 pounds based on the volume of steel and insulation. I'll try to weight it soon and report back. Will also make a post on the show your door thread.
    Deejayoh, I have enough left over gasket from my heat break to make a seal, so that is planned. I have used the door, and the pieces before I welded them up, to extinguish fires, so the inner surfaces (especially around the periphery of the outer door) are quite coated with creosote, so I will have to find something that will dissolve that off before I can glue down the rope.

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  • deejayoh
    replied
    Nice work JR. We still need to get together one of these days. Would love to see the oven.

    I like how deep you made the door. I would have gone that way if I had a do-over

    Another tip - get some of this gasket https://www.amazon.com/High-temp-Rep.../dp/B00TLB75MA to go around the door. Makes a WORLD of difference in heat retention. My ramp is probably 75-100 degrees less per day with the gasket than it was without it.

    Leave a comment:


  • SableSprings
    replied
    Wow John, that door's awesome! How much does it weigh? Mine was only a little over 25 pounds if I remember correctly...made me feel pretty comfortable using it to damp down my overnight heating fires. Your door looks like it will be absolutely stable, lighter than mine, and be really useful working the oven. Thanks for sharing...you might want to add it to the "show us your door" thread (link below) for others to see.

    http://www.fornobravo.com/community/...ur-door-thread
    Last edited by SableSprings; 10-12-2016, 09:28 PM.

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    I finally got my insulated door welded together. I used 16 gauge mild steel for the outer portion of door where the handles attach, and 20 gauge for the inner door and surround. The door is 4" thick, and stuffed with insulation blanket leftover from my build. The handles are concrete float replacement handles, an idea I got from The Bread Builders. I went with this style of handle as I wanted them to be removable from the outside in case I ever wanted to take them off for painting etc. I did not want to just run bolts all the way through the door (to reduce heat transfer) and with the welded design there was not going to be access to the inside after assembly. I tack welded nuts to the inside face of the door and fastened the handles down with stainless steel socket head cap screws. I chose not to incorporate a thermometer at this time - between finding one that would work with my thickness that I liked and the added complexity of providing the holes and internal support for one, it seemed to me like diminishing returns on my efforts.
    I plan on painting the outside but now that the weather has cooled and I have gotten the door pretty dirty from use, I may just use it till spring and see how it holds up. I also have a few rough edges that a little sanding will take care of.
    A note on the welded design I used the relatively thin steel was difficult to weld without burning through, and with my skill level it is almost impossible for me to make a nice looking outside corner weld. By extending the bottom plate slightly in the front, I was able to use all inside corner tacks to complete the door. Not the prettiest job, but I think it will hold together.
    Last edited by JRPizza; 10-13-2016, 01:03 PM.

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