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39 inch Corner Build

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    No, you hit it on the head. I was thinking of 3" as a minimum for arch width/depth, but as we know the smaller the difference the smaller the effect and an additional 1/4 inch probably is nothing. If I stay with a 13.5 depth plus decorative arch I will be right at the width and end of my hearth which I can make work and look good. So whether I do a 7 and open up to 8 or make it 8 I kind of have an idea now. I'm laying out the differences between the serpentine transition and a rectangular opening that I frame up like you did. Either way by the time I start putting mortar to brick I think I will feel pretty good about the direction I'm going in.

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  • Gulf
    replied
    JR,

    Sorry for the late reply. Things got busy for me yesterday, then there were errands and appointments today. I had a little problem understanding your last drawing. And I may be my misunderstanding the size of the anchor plate. Regardless, I agree that 7" to 8" would be fairly easy to transition. Back, a page or two ago, I was thinking that you were contemplating a (1 brick) 9" depth entry. That would have made the opening (front to back) some where in the 4 to 5" range. That would have been a different ball game . With a (brick and a half) 13.5" depth entry, you should have plenty of room for a full 8" opening. A full 8" opening leaves 5.5". That's 2.75" each (front and back) to complete the entry arch and form the entry to flu opening. It can be done with a 12" (brick and a half) depth entry imo.

    If I'm missing something, please correct me .

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    Hey Jr here is what I did. You have pretty much the same set up I did. I took and notched in to the vent opening to fit the round adaptor plate flang. I flared the bricks so there would be a smoother air flow. I also needed to shift it back a little and over so it looks kinda funky in the picture but so far has worked great. For moving it back I cut the bricks at a 45 degree angle to keep the same air volume in each level going up.

    Randy

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Originally posted by Gulf View Post
    JR,

    Yes, a 6" opening is OK if you make it wide enough. Transitioning a smoke chamber in to the diameter of an 8" flue is not a problem. But, transitioning out to fit an 8" diameter is a little more difficult. It is much easier to make the depth of the entry to fit the 8" opening of the flue. That gives you straight vertical walls for the smoke chamber (front and back)......
    Gulf, I don't see how to get an 8" deep vent if I want to keep my non-decorative outer arch 13.5" from the inner arch and my vent arch bricks at least 3" wide, front to back. I can get a little over 7" though and easily transition to the 8" I need for my adapter plate. In the attached sketch, my IA is on the lower right. Immediately to the left is the vent inner arch brick @3" with a 1/4 inch heat break and 1/4' rebate for rope and outside of that the 3" outer arch (about a 7" opening). Sitting on those are bricks on edge @2.5" spaced to open the vent up to 8". I show one course but will probably end up with several. The holes in my mounting plate are at 9 5/8" so the screws should center well in those bricks. I'll cap it off like others do with bricks laying flat and a 10" or so opening depending on how much room I need to twist my pipe on.
    Am I missing anything you or anybody can think of? I contemplated notching the inner vent arch bricks and overlapping the oven arch but couldn't see what the advantages would be.

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  • DavidApp
    replied
    Hello JR

    I am on the road at the moment so I can't measure the opening. I will do that this weekend.

    David

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    Sorry I had missed that. Yeah I think that metal is probably your best bet. It is funny what some building dept's want permits on and what others will let you get away with. I really figured that my city would want all kinds of permits. But some how I slipped through the cracks and was told I did not need a permit. I am not complaining just stunned. I did give them all the prints and said kinda what I had in mind waited a week and then I was told no permit needed just call the fire marshal . He said it did not need a permit as long as it had a proper ful and chimney have fun. So always check but might not need it.

    Randy

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    If you look at my post #2 in this thread you can see the frame of the structure we built that the oven is going to be the centerpiece of. Planning on walls on each side of the oven. They will catch the majority of the wind/rain that hit from the South and West, and two walled structures don't need a permit in our area ;-)
    We were thinking of doing some clear twinwall plastic but don't want to put a chimney up through that. Probably some kind of metal, but it won't be anything as cool as Gulf's.

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    I think you are pretty much exactly where I was for the vent arch. I think I also did 13.5" so far it has worked great. What kind of permanent cover are you thinking? Are you going to do something like gulf did? That would be very cool. I wish I was better at planning things but I work better with out and mold my project based on the problems I run into and the solutions I come up with. When I started the dome I did not know how I was going to do the vent area , but a idea pope up and problem solved.

    Randy

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    I'm not planning on an enclosure, but with the way I cut the diagonal on my corner stand, going wider on the arch would probably mean having to shorten it up a little (I "budgeted" 13.5 inches plus decorative arch) unless I build an extension, which I'm not going to do. I've got some bricks placed in front of my dome and are playing with some layouts. Been having to keep my oven covered with intermittent rain storms as my hearth and insulation gets soaked. Planning a permanent (non leaky) cover but want to see exactly where the chimney is going to penetrate before I put the final roof on.

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    JR I would say I am happy with it so far. I do not have a door yet though. I went as wide as I could with how I did my stand. The outside edges of the stand are the same as the vent. That made it a little harder to get it enclosed and sealed, but where there is a will there is a way. Just remember the wider you can go the better off you will be.

    Randy

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Thanks for the pics! I am going with hemispherical arches so don't have as "flat" of an area as you did. What did your vent opening turn out to be?

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  • DavidApp
    replied
    Hello JR

    This is how I did the dome to vent transition. It seemed to work out well.I would make it 1 brick wider if I could do it over as I get a little smoke at times.

    David

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Thanks - I think I can pick some up either directly from Rutland or on Amazon. BTW, I'm researching vent arches and was looking at your build. I see you were going for a 1 5/8 reveal - I was planning on 1.5" but am second guessing myself. How happy are you with the reveal you built?

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    If you want I think I still have the tube of sealed and can take a closer picture but here is the one I had on my build.

    Randy

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    Originally posted by JRPizza View Post

    Randy, where did you buy your ceramic rope and high temp caulk?
    I got it from smith sharpie in North east minneapolis. They are great people to deal with.

    Sorry I missed when you asked that

    Randy

    Leave a comment:

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