Block Stand Question - Pompeii 42"

[thomasmn]

I got my studs at a place off of Highway 13 by Burnsville on the way to Shakopee. They didn't have the 6" ones in shorter than 12' which was a pain as I have a pile in the garage of cutoffs now. If the place Randy mentions actually has it in the size you need definitely go with that. I'm going to try my hand at applying rapid set stucco today.. Had to go to Woodbury HD to get it, but they didn't even know they had it in stock. I also managed to get a decorative arch cut from some leftover stone a neighbor had sitting around.

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager I got my studs at I believe it was called drywall supply. It is on 13th ave and Hwy 169 across the street from a uhaul storage center. Yes I would go with 18 gage studs. I think 16 gage is over kill and 20 is not enough for Minnesota winters. I did do 2x4 for the walls and I think it was 2x8 for the roof. I would go at least 2x6 for the roof to give it a little extra strength. If you have any questions just let me know.

Randy

[Yeager]

Hey All,
I finished up the brickwork today and am now starting to plan out my structure. I am thinking of building a roof with a 4/12 pitch - is that the norm or any suggestions otherwise? (I am in Minnesota) The other question I have is it appears many on the forum are using 2x4 steel studs for walls and 2x8" metal studs for the roof. Where is a good place to get them that stocks them? Is 18 gauge what I should purchase?

thanks,
Yeager

[JRPizza]

Yeager, check out post #51 of Joeykramer's build thread - I recently posted dimensions for the adapter. https://community.fornobravo.com/for...er-build/page4

I did my curing fires without insulation, and got a pretty big crack running up the back of my oven. Don't know if insulation would have helped or not - hopefully others can pitch in and share their experiences.

[Yeager]

Thanks everyone - extremely helpful. I do have a 1/4" heat break built into the inner and outer arch. It wraps around (L shaped) and keeps that 1/4" separation that I'll fill with rope and high temp sealant. The flue will use the external arch. I think I'll try to plan for 6x13 or 7x13 for the wide brick vent leading up to the 8" flue similar to how Thomasmn did it!

Whats the super vent adaptor (outer square) dimensions? I have mine on order, but won't be here until next week!)

Also, I have my daughters birthday party on July 3rd where I would like to cook up my first set of pizzas. I'll have time to let oven cure and progressive fires, but may not have time to get the insulation on. Will I be able to get the oven hot enough if I keep wood burning in the oven to cook the pizza? I could throw some insulation on pretty quick, but won't have a structure built to protect it or keep it from blowing around.


thanks,
Yeager

[thomasmn]

Hey All,
I am putting together my plan for my outer arch and trying to figure out how much of an opening to create to lead up to my brick box that will lead up to my 8" flue. Does 5x13" seem reasonable or should I go bigger? I have 13" from the outer side of my inner arch to the outer side of my outer arch to install.

I did a very similar thing to this, I wanted to make sure I had at least half a brick on each side of the vent so I did a vent opening about 4.5 x 12 as I shaped the brick on each side of the half bricks to let more of the smoke up into it, then transitioned with my bricks to what is needed for the 8" super vent adapter.

[JRPizza]

You are going to want to feed an 8" flue with at least 50in^2, so 5"13 should work, but I recommend thinking about how you are going to transition to the shape of flue you have. If you are using a round pipe, you want to get to a square(ish) shape so you can fit your adapter and attach it without having short edge margin in your bricks. Starting with 5" wide seems smallish to me. I think you also might want to make the opening as wide as you can initially and taper it up, as a long narrow vent might not catch as much smoke exiting the oven as a wider one. If you study vents on the forum, I don't think you will see too many (if any) long narrow vents.
PS, re-reading your post makes me think you were already considering a wide vent, so excuse me if that was the case. Are you planning a heat break and using an inner vent arch, or are you going to incorporate the oven inner arch into the vent?

[Yeager]

Hey All,
I am putting together my plan for my outer arch and trying to figure out how much of an opening to create to lead up to my brick box that will lead up to my 8" flue. Does 5x13" seem reasonable or should I go bigger? I have 13" from the outer side of my inner arch to the outer side of my outer arch to install.

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager. I had a small extra pice of blanket left over and was a little close on the 2" eap so I decided to wrap the chimney with the blanket. I figured it couldn't hurt. I don't know if there is a shield you can get I would assume that there is but I did not go that way. I think that they make one for wood stove going through the roof. But I don't think you need to go that far. As for spacing on the roof it is 16" on center for the most part. I think I moved a few rafters around by the chimney but the rest is 16" on center. For the roof I think I did 1\2" plywood then did the whole roof in ice and water barrier. On a house you would just do a strip at the bottom then tar paper from there up. The then shingles. Make sure you use a starter row for the shingles. I know it sucks to buy a full roll but it is what you need. If you want I can look and see if I have mine still sitting on the shelf in the garage. I have no use for it.

Randy

[Yeager]

Thanks Randy! I am using cultured stone as well. I noticed in your pictures you wrapped the chimney pipe in ceramic insulation where it goes throught the roof. Is there a shield or anything you can get or is that the standard way you put it through the plywood to the flashing? How did you design the steel framing on your roof? Did you go 24" on center? For the actuall roofing did you go plywood, watershield, tar paper, and then shingles?

thanks,
Yeager

[RandyJ]

Hey Yeager it is looking great. I don't think I would worry about the gaps as you called them. I did not really go back in and add anything after I closed the dome. I also set my cement board flush with the edge of the stand. I did not do the whole lath and scratch cote. I was advised by someone on the forum I think it was Tscar to use polimer fortified thinset to adhere the stone work and I just went straight to the cement board. I did use cultured stone not real so I don't know what you are doing or if it would make a difference.

Randy

[Yeager]

Here's a link to a video!

[Yeager]

Had a great weekend with family and building! I ended up putting leftover concrete block from my stand next to arch wall to support outward pressure. It will be hidden behind the structure I am building so figured it would be easier than adding two more layers of brick. I just drilled a hole for rebar in each block hole and put in 24" rebar then filled each cavity with concrete to make sure it doesn't move,There is a 1/4 heat gap on the arch walls and will continue on the actual arch also. I still used insulating brick to keep the outward arch wall to prevent any heat transfer to wick into concrete stand.

On my internal dome picture you'll see some gaps on some of the upper brick. Unless you guys think I am crazy, I don't plan on filling them. I don't feel it is a structural issue and will have 3/4 - 1 inch mortar on top of the dome by the time I am finished. Thoughts?

As I plan out my stonework on my structure I am thinking of putting up hardiboard flush with my block/arch and then drilling screws for my lathe for scratchcoat into external arch/wall. Does that make sense or how should I plan for that?

thanks,
Yeager

[UtahBeehiver]

There is some school of thought that the point and tuck may eventually fall out and get in your food. I guess it is your decision. The inner arch joints will not be as obvious after a few firing since this are soots up quite of bit, it is also the inner arch and not the outer arch,.

[Yeager]

Hi Utah,
Sorry.. I didn't explain well. What I was thinking of doing was using a grout float to fill the cracks using the home brew (making it a little wet). Thinking that might be easier to get the mortar in the cracks?

Is filling all the gaps necessary? What is the downside other than aesthetics?