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You must be going broke on HS50. I bought one bag of that stuff and switched over to homebrew when I saw that a bag didn't go very far.
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Originally posted by shuboyje View PostRe: Rectangular Vent gives a Better draw???
For optimum airflow the transition should be the same width as the door and as deep as the diameter of the pipe. It should then be a square to round with as gentle a slope as possible in your space. That is the ideal from a purely airflow point of view, but obviously you can make concessions for space limitations. This is how I built my vent and it draws perfectly with no smoke out the front even on startup.
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Originally posted by RandyJ View PostI don't think it will be a problem. That is how I did mine too. I have had no problems.
Randy
Let's hope mine is on par with yours then. There is quite a bond on this brick thou considering it is closer to a full size brick than any other in the dome and fully covered with mortar.
I'll keep my fingers crossed.
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Originally posted by Larry P View PostI could be off base here, but I'd be worried about the keystone in your arch. The arch is going to expand when heated, and when it does I don't see anything supporting that center brick.
I see what you mean. I prob should have done that arch a little different now looking at it.
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Originally posted by RandyJ View PostWell at least he is using the heat stop mortar. So atleast that should not be nearly as affected by the heat.
RandyDry-mix refractory mortar made from high temperature cements and carefully selected aggregates that will not expand or tear apart when heated.
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Well at least he is using the heat stop mortar. So atleast that should not be nearly as affected by the heat.
Randy
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Originally posted by RandyJ View PostI don't think it will be a problem. That is how I did mine too. I have had no problems.
Randy
Issue I would see is that there is a lot of mortar between those bricks. Right at one of the hottest spots in the oven. The bricks should be nearly touching at the bottom. I might cut a couple voisseurs
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Larry brings up a good point, if you look up the purpose of a keystone, it locks the arch so it can bear weight (hence tapered bricks are preferred vs untapered. So it may depend on what the arch is supporting, if it were a massive brick chimney like Gulf's or Tscar's builds then the keystone/tapers arch or voussiors plays a critical roll in arch support. If we are looking at a relatively short SS vent pipe then this may be a different story.
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I could be off base here, but I'd be worried about the keystone in your arch. The arch is going to expand when heated, and when it does I don't see anything supporting that center brick.
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I got it back to normal. I'll have to get some pics from the inside.
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The picture is a little deceiving. I think the upward angle I took it at makes it look worse than it actually is.
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I see what you are talking about Russell . I could be a visual illusion of the camera angle or not. Mine was off by like 1.5" or so. I fixed it pretty much all at once and it turned out good. But not all work out the same. Just make sure you take a second look it doesn't take much to cause problems.
Randy
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I guess the picture skews things, looks like at least a couple inches lower in the front than the back from the pic.
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