I really debated between those tan bricks (my brickyard called them taupe) and the "natural". I bought several of each and stacked them up to think about it. I ended up going with the natural but hid some tan bricks in places you can't see. I don't believe it makes a difference, just aesthetics, but nice to see an oven come together with that color.
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This is what the tapered arch bricks will look like. They are cut from full bricks not half bricks. Each one is slightly different so don't cut all the same. Start with the top dead center brick using your IT and work left and right of the TDC brick using your IT to mark and scribe.Comment
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Alright - it's been a week since I did the arch - I don't think it turned out that great but hey, it's standing on it's own!
I don't think I soaked one of the arch bricks enough and the next day there was a crack between the mortar and the brick (see pic 4). I'm thinking I'll just fill it with mortar, but any suggestions on what to do with that crack would be great.
I also started Row 7. Tonight I'm going to tie in rows 5 and 6 into the arch and work on completing row 7, exciting stuff!!Comment
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If it separated like that, then the mortar didn't adhere - you really can't patch it. I hate to say it, but I would reset that brick, at leastComment
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I don't know about a grinder. When the mortar is still kind of green, sometimes you can knock them out pretty clean with a cold chisel. The trick will be doing it without disturbing the rest of the arch. But if you can get it out, that approach should work.Comment
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I had a couple of nasty joints in my current build that I had to rip out (over wedged and ended up with a sawtooth -- if you've done it, you know what I mean). If you take a recip saw and get a masonry blade, you can slice out the mortar and then they pop right out with a hammer/chisel. In an arch -- could be a disaster though. Personally, I'd just grind it out a little and patch the crack with a tube of furnace mortar goop.
If it was the front arch and you could see it, might feel differently, but the rear arch gets covered in grime anyway.
I'm in Carlsbad now and just about to build my front arch.Comment
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Thanks so much for the feed back.
This is essentially what i decided to do and it worked great...I pulled out as much lose dried mortar as possible and ground down the inside of the brick a bit, soaked in water, then back filled with real wet mortar. I felt good doing that bc half of the brick was locked in...I could put my full weight on the arch and it didn't flex at all.
Making some good progress, hoping to be done with the dome this week!
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My front arch did the same when I fired it hard the first time. Right at the keystone. It went in last obviously, and I only let it set for 3-4 days. May also be getting opened by diff expansion from the metal vent plate I set directly to the arch. C'est la vie. It isn't changing much so I'll just patch it with the Rutland grey goop and rub some ash on it.
If you need half a roll of insulation blanket you're welcome to the leftover piece I have. Body safe material. Might not be worth the drive from Poway in gasoline though.Comment
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Here's some updated pics...Comment
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I haven't bought it yet but I'll probably just order on Amazon or Ace or some other website.
I live in South Carlsbad just west of I-5. I have about 1/2 roll of 2000F insulation blanket.
think it was this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAFE-Non-Cer...RgqdpDQY-n5QFA
I bought the $10 more one rated for higher temp for the first 2 layers and saved $10 (for some unknown reason) for the last layer.Comment
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