New Build - 42" with Santa Maria Grill in So. Cal

[rand18m]

Here's a few pics of mine if that helps. Note I used the same arch pattern for all three arches.
What are you using to cut brick with?

[Damer419]

Thanks Rand......those pics help. I am going to build exact what you did....or similar. I am having a bit of a hard time figuring out how to taper the arch. I have 3 courses built and no sailors or soldiers so I think I'll have a better idea as my courses get closer.

I have the new HD brick saw. I am trying to figure out the compound cuts for the courses. I did not do it for the first 3 and I am plowing throught mortar so I want to start as I go up to save mortar and to avoid the V's. Rumor has it that I don't need a jig with that saw but am still trying to dial in the proper angles.

[UtahBeehiver]

Here is a pic showing how you use your IT to determine the angles of a tapered arch such as yours. It is from Mr. Chipster's build. Also look at DeeJayoh's spread sheet for calc. angles for each brick course. There is a link under the Newbie section under the thread Treasure Archives.

[Damer419]

Thanks Russell.........that pic confirms what I was suspecting that the tapers are different for each brick. It was hard to tell from some of the pics/builds I have been reading, but this pic is clear as day.

Onward and upward

[UtahBeehiver]

FYI,

Start with the top dead center brick (TDC) and work your way down each side of TDC. It will take a more than a half a brick but less than a full brick and will get slightly smaller in depth as you move each way of TDC. Yes each brick is slightly different.

[rand18m]

As stated above I just used the tool to mark brick and cut similar all the way around. You can see the back of the dome arch on mine, just marked them with a pencil. You'll have mortar between dome bricks so just get close. Plus you'll cut those to fit too. You don't have to be perfect.

Tapering and beveling the bricks isn't that hard either. I used a tile saw and made shims from wood, unless you plan to have a mortarless dome, and we don't, you just have to get close. You can see my joints are quite tight overall. Next time I will buy a 12" dual bevel miter saw and add a water line, then sell the thing when done. Save a ton of work.

[Damer419]

Been rainy weekends here in So Cal that have really put a limit on the time I can work on the oven. Had a productive day yesterday. I am up to 4 1/2 courses and struggled but finished the inner arch. Thank God I do not have to be a Mason to put food on our table.

It is far from perfect but as long as it holds and functions I'll be happy. I have trusted the IT enough to avoid a tear drop so far. As my bricks got smaller I wasn't paying attention and a few edges line up. All and all I am happy thus far and enjoying the challenge.

[Damer419]

Upon close inspection I need some advise here. One brick on the arch has a crackline in the mortar. What are my options? Leave alone? Tear down and start arch over? Grind only this brick out and re-mortar?

What could have caused this on that brick only? I soaked bricks as always and was same batch of mortar on all bricks for arch.

Pic is on the back tapered side as it is worse than on the front.

Thank you in advance for advise.

[SableSprings]

Your arch isn't going anywhere (it's brick to brick on the inner lines) and remember there will be the dome bricks that tie into it on top. I had a similar joint separation when I build my arch. It happened for me when I tapped/wiggled the keystone brick into place...it caused an adjacent brick to shift before the mortar set. Looked very similar to what you've got there. I noticed the crack immediately and just did a little cosmetic mortar work to eliminate the crack. I'm sure the bond between those two bricks isn't perfect, but my arch has been solid since 2009 and I suspect yours will last as long as the dome.

It would be interesting to know the real cause, but really I can't imagine it is going to affect the structure integrity of the arch as far as using the oven goes. Also, it's located in a position that you'll never see it when the oven landing & vent chamber are done. If it really bothers you, now's the time to fix it...I'd just scrape out or use a dremel tool to remove 1/2" deep of the green mortar in the crack before it cures and pack in replacement mortar with your next batch. Be careful not to work too forcefully on the arch as you may move other bricks in the arch before their mortar has cured. Again, in my humble opinion this is a minor crack and isn't worth stressing about

Keep at it...it's looking great! (...and Happy New Year!)

[Damer419]

Thank you Mike. I wasn't sure if the fact that the dome bricks tying into it would help or make it more problematic. Thanks again.

Happy New Year

[Gulf]

I agree with Mike. Don't break a sweat over it. Arches (and these ovens) are designed in a way that prevents them from falling in on themselves. Tscarborough and others have said many times that mortar is not used to keep bricks together. It's purpose is to keep bricks apart. The mortar in that joint is still doing that and will for many years to come. As for the cause, In my opinion it was probably due to shrinkage. Most all mortars that I have played with will shrink. That becomes more noticeable on the larger joints. The clay in the homebrew adds to that shrinkage. From here on, the larger outer joints on your dome will benefit from a product that you are producing with your wet saw. The settlings in the pan are what is called grog. It can recovered easily by drying and screening. Then it can be used to replace a small portion of the clay and sand in the formula. The larger particles that are in the grog will help immensley on the shrinkage that occurs in the larger joints.

Back to the purpose of mortar: I have an issue with posts #16 and 17. It looks to me like you may follow that design. Though it may work for some time, imo it is not the best practice. Keep the entry brick on bond until the flue opening. As soon as the brick get level with the top of the arch, go back to bond for at least two courses to tie it all together.

[Damer419]

Thank you Joe for the re-assurance.

Forgive my inexperience, but can you please clarify what you mean by......

"Keep the entry brick on bond until the flue opening. As soon as the brick get level with the top of the arch, go back to bond for at least two courses to tie it all together"

I am not following ........sorry but I'm a slow learner

[Gulf]

Look back at post # 17 , pic #4. The supporting walls of the entry are laid in a running bond. That means that the head joints are staggered. The first three voussoirs from the spring line on each side could have been laid the same way as those supporting walls up to the point of the flue opening. That would have made for a much stronger entry. Instead, two separate arches were laid and a center line of brick was installed as fill without support. In time, those brick could possibly become dislodged The good thing about that design is that the both the front and back of the entry arch are complete. Nothing is going to come crashing down. But, it is not a best practice.

[Damer419]

Ok Joe.....light bulb went on and I get what you are saying now. Makes sense that it would be a better practice that way. Thanks for the clarification. Happy New Year

[Damer419]

Had nice weather on a weekend for a change. Made some progress. I am a few bricks away from clearing the inner arch. Also started to stack the block for the adjacent Santa Maria grill. Starting to take shape.

Onward and upward

D