36" Pompeii Dome Chicago

[RandyJ]

It is completely unnecessary to taper as well as bevel the bricks. I started off trying to do that and quickly decided it was not worth the effort. When i get ready to fo the next one i won't even consider it i would only bevel them. Then fill the joints from the back with home brew mortar. I used whatever i had left that was starting to harden as mass for the outside.

[Chach]

What are the benefits of tapering the brick to make the dome tighter fitting? i do want to bevel to get the inverted V out but is it necessary to taper as well? what are the pro and cons of not doing it or doing it?

[Chach]

My progress is starting slow but just getting acclimated with the project again. Floor is cut and starting on the first course.

[Chach]

Thanks that's what I'll do

[Karangi Dude]

Chach

Use mortar it is good for levelling but more important it will hold the bricks until you get a couple of courses laid.
The mortar will not hold very well to the insulation so be careful not to bump the first course, when you do the second course it will start to firm up and become more solid

Cheers Doug

[Chach]

Quick question...I leveled my cooking floor using sand and fire clay mix. Now that the floor is level and when i start the actual dome do I use fire clay sand mix to level the dome walls first course or should I use refractory mortar (home brew) to level the first course of the dome.

[Chach]

Well Sunday it snowed over 4" and the next day snow was gone..This weather is toying with my emotions. So today I started my oven floor and got that all laid out and put down the insulation 1 1/2" foamglas ans 2" thermogold 12. oven floor brucks are on top, laid out and ready to cut. rain is coming so I had a tarp the build right now but now I feel like I'm finally on my way once I cut the brick I may pick it up again and throw some fireclay down and sand and level out the bricks a little better. Next is to construct my indispensable tool and start this bad boy

[Chach]

Not sure but I built my hemispherical arch with the bricks on insulation, it is the only part of my oven that I am worried about the long term durability. If there are any dilation forces from heating/cooling cycles there may be a tendency for the arch to want to spread, since it is supporting a pretty good load. If I had it to to over again I would probably have put the entry bricks on insulation and the arch bricks on concrete.
Just my thoughts.

Thanks Mike I appreciate the info I was thinking of doing what you did....I'll review your build again

[Chach]

Not sure but I built my hemispherical arch with the bricks on insulation, it is the only part of my oven that I am worried about the long term durability. If there are any dilation forces from heating/cooling cycles there may be a tendency for the arch to want to spread, since it is supporting a pretty good load. If I had it to to over again I would probably have put the entry bricks on insulation and the arch bricks on concrete.
Just my thoughts.

I was thinking the same thing and I don't think Id have much heat loss from the arch being on the concrete. Thanks

[SableSprings]

Ricky, I put my outer arch bricks and buttressing on concrete blocks (no insulation). I haven't had any issues with them and have not noticed excessive heating in that outer landing area. There are many builds that have placed a small expansion gap that separates the heated oven area from the chimney/outside arch section. With the expansion gap (filled with either ceramic batting, fireplace gasket rope, or high temp silicone seal), you seriously reduce problems from potential cracking/movement caused by the dome expansion during firing. Although I did not add this gap, I have not experienced any problems with my oven and my heat retention is plenty adequate for us.

It sounds like you are going to do an outer arch as I did (straight sides, slight top arch). In my thread (link with my signature lines), posts 8-10 show the perlcrete insulation base of the oven. Later in the thread you'll see how I buttressed the outer arch/flue chamber without being on the insulation pad.

Hope that helps...

[JRPizza]

Not sure but I built my hemispherical arch with the bricks on insulation, it is the only part of my oven that I am worried about the long term durability. If there are any dilation forces from heating/cooling cycles there may be a tendency for the arch to want to spread, since it is supporting a pretty good load. If I had it to to over again I would probably have put the entry bricks on insulation and the arch bricks on concrete.
Just my thoughts.

[Chach]

So I have some mixed information and I'm looking for opinions and answers. if i go with an outer arch with straight sides and a small curve at the top instead of a semicircle im probably going to have to buttress the sides. The question is does that butressing need to be on insulation or can it sit right on the concrete. Im assuming I would want the bottom brick from the butressing to be mortared down do.its more secure and stable bit will the oven wick heat out if i do that or not that much since its outside at the end of the vent landing.


Ricky

[Chach]

Just looked at your photo album, nice rock work. Oven door is the correct ratio height for a 36" ID oven. Flare entries are nice but they do add an additional complex angle to deal with where the vertical walls and arch meet but not a deal killer, just need to be aware of it. What part of Chicago, the Big Boss is from the NW burbs.

I used to live near downtown but moved to the SW burbs around 15 years ago. I frequent the NW burbs a lot for work. Thanks for the compliments the stone work was a PITA simce I went jointless...if i did a mortar joint it for sure would jave sped up the process. I did a joint on my inside fireplace amd I flew through it. I will say going jointless looks great but tons of added time to the build. I did the cinder block structure and slab pretty quick but that stone work easily doubles in time. I really like your attention to detail and your copper panels are truly a work of art. Nice Job I know you hear that all the time but it mever gets old. lol

[UtahBeehiver]

Just looked at your photo album, nice rock work. Oven door is the correct ratio height for a 36" ID oven. Flare entries are nice but they do add an additional complex angle to deal with where the vertical walls and arch meet but not a deal killer, just need to be aware of it. What part of Chicago, the Big Boss is from the NW burbs.

[Chach]

Getting ready to start gathering materials for the homemade mortar...Ordering my insulation from distribution international consisting of 1" foamglas, and 2" thermal gold 12. Firebricks are very easy to get here and always in stock. Just have to figure out how I want my enclosure to look. I was thinking of a arched roof I have seen one made in here but not sure. I have a rough sketch of my oven and my inner arch opening just curious if anyone sees anything out of the ordinary. im doing a flared vent landing but not sure what the disadvantages are in it. Im going to take david s advice and make the flue an inverted funnel design as well. Im interested in any input. I also included the picture of an oven I saw with the roof i was thinking about doing. * Update I Just was browing the forum and was reading a coffee roasting thread and I found the owner of the oven's roof I Liked. It belongs to fornax hominus Nice job makes the enclosure look a lot different than a typical dog house roof.