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42 Pompeii in San Felipe, MX

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    It does not really matter on the exact degree rather that the top slope of the brick matches the same angle as the center line of the IT. So once you have the TDC cut then you work right and left of the TDC. For example, looking from the inside of the dome outward. The next brick right of TDC, the left side of the next brick will have the same angle as the right side of the TDC. The right side of the same brick will be defined by the IT, etc, etc. Then the opposite is done for bricks for bricks left of TDC. All the bricks are slightly different and left of TDC will not work for right of TDC. Do not cut them all the same as the TDC.

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  • modified9v
    replied
    OK... I think I have finally got this. Been way too many distractions in my life (Too busy for a retired guy). Attached is what I believe will get me over the arch (HUMP). At about 44 degrees it looks like I will clear it. I have drawn it out on the Top Dead Center brick. Having the tapered arch in this location will give me a nice 2 1/2 of exposed arch to work with to tie in the flue with a heat break. Arch dimensions are 20 by 13 1/4

    Does anyone see a problem with this before I take it out to the stand and start putting things together???

    Thank you all for taking the time to take a peak,
    Mikie V.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Width is more flexible than height, 10" height will be fine. FB ovens use a 19" width for a high dome "36" oven.

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  • modified9v
    replied
    roroman 10 sounds close for a 31 hemispherical oven... the calculation is 63%. Dome height is a factor as well

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  • roroman
    replied
    hi, is there a recomended percentage of how wide the opening should be, I am trying to build a 31" internal diam. but unsure of how wide the opening should be? my height is proyected to be 10" heigh, any opinion on this. thanks

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  • modified9v
    replied
    Thanks for the tips and info on the arch opening percentage. Math was never my strong suit. Also, hope to get the arch form built today. I have everything I need to get started now, so no excuses (other than the heat and humidity). Ill see if I can get some pics of my creation this evening. All plans on working on this project got derailed yesterday. LOL

    Mikie V.

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    I can't remember how wide I made the arch forms, but 6" sounds about right. It needs to be narrow enough to keep the bottom arch bricks parallel, and wide enough to support the bricks near the top of the arch and keep them from tipping. This assumes of course you cut the inner and outer form boards the same size and attach them in the proper alignment. As far as height goes, I believe the "ideal" ratio is 63%, where the FB plans try (I believe) to go with standard sizes. Their recommendation of 12.5" for a 42" oven is closer to 59.5% so adding a little height should not hurt anything. I think you could go up to around 13 1/4 and barely exceed 63%.

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  • modified9v
    replied
    Thanks JR... the pics are super helpful. Curious, how wide did you make your arch form? Looks like about 6??? Another question... I was shooting for an arch height of 12.5. If I use full bricks touching edges it makes the arch 5/8 taller. Do you think that would cause performance issues? I like the idea of using the full 2 1/2 bricks but if it wont draft correctly I cut 5/8 off the bottom brick.

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Check out this post on my build. You can move the arch bricks in and out a few inches depending on how much you ultimately want to have exposed. I went for more of a maximum arch exposure so I would have plenty of arch to build my vent over and maximize my oven inside space. Best bet is to make a form for you arch, then use your IT to place the TDC brick forward (out of the oven) leaving enough to cut the curve for the ID. Move your form forward to the front of the brick you just located, then you can see how much brick you will have sticking out at the base using the IT to place a bottom brick. You can then do any fine adjustment you want.
    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...319#post380319

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  • modified9v
    replied
    Maybe this helps and maybe Im over thinking it all. In the picture, the brick that has the two arrows on it... Im trying to find the proper orientation of the brick that will be below it so there will be enough brick to cut as the dome goes higher. If the arch is moved out, away from the oven too far than the TDC brick, or arch keystone will come up short. Conversely, if the arch is moved in too far then there wont be enough sticking out to make the heat break junction for the flue/outer arch assembly. Using the IT should I just set it up so I have just jusssssst enough brick on the keystone to be able to make the cuts for the taper?

    Maybe Im overthinking it, but it seems pretty important to nail that first brick.

    Thanks, Mikie V.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    I am not sure what you are asking, maybe be a little sketch or something.

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  • modified9v
    replied
    Thank you Utah for the response. Sorry it took so long to respond. We just got back to San Felipe with the mortar supplies and I was able to pick up my FB board from my PO Box.

    I love that first picture... not sure when I first saw it... I know its been posted many times and it really is helpful. My struggle is with the brick on the very bottom. Im not sure how far it needs to stick out from the floor.... you know, where it will make up the reveal and the contact with the door. Maybe 2 inches? Id like to to be out as far as possible but still come up with enough brick at TDC to complete the transition. My reasoning for this is to help make my heat break joint and subsequent flue work out seamlessly. (Man, Im not sure I understand what I just wrote).

    Today I hope to get the arch form built. Still undecided as to a full arch or partial. I better figure it out pretty quick. LOL

    Again, thank you...
    Mikie V.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    What type of inner arch are you doing? Highly recommended a tapered inner arch. There are dozens of examples on the forum and the IT is the key to getting everything right. It makes the dome to arch tie-in much easier. The longest brick on tapered inner arch is top dead center (TDC). A tapered inner arch is a difficult concept to understand so I attached a couple pics to help. The first is how the IT helps with dimensions and angle, it is on a partial arch but it works the same of a full arch (compliments of Mr. Chipster), second is how the bricks look . Not all the bricks are the same they change as they move left or right of TDC, so you cannot cut all at one or take a left side and place on the right side.

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  • modified9v
    replied
    OK... so I figured out the sand... Ill go buy some good stuff that works based on the thread on Homebrew.... Now, this has bothered me since before I started... how deep and how long is that first brick of the inner arch suppose to be? In the picture, the arch is not not nearly correct. The mock up of the dome to the left is correct as is the fake mocked up dome in front of the opening. Maybe Im being too crazy about this... I just want to make sure that I have enough brick exposure from the inner arch to tie into the flue and outer arch... not sure this pic helps... I do know that it is driving me crazy... This is all for placement of the inner arch brick that will tie into the dome and not contact the floor... Im dizzy.

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  • modified9v
    replied
    Right on... that is the way I will proceed. About that Homebrew... did a search but dagnabitt.. there is a ton of info. Can you tell me if it is a special kind of sand. I mean I live in the desert and could sift a dozen shovel fulls... unless of course its special sand.

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