42” Pompeii in San Felipe, MX

[modified9v]

Perfect and simple... I like it!!! I have a 10” blade too (not HF). I was making it too complicated. I am determined to have the cuts made tomorrow. Also be great if I could get tied into what I already have mortared. You’ve been a tremendous help!!! Thank You!!!

Mike V.

[modified9v]

OK... getting stuff done now. I spent the better part of the day getting ready to cut arch bricks and then actually cutting a bunch of them. I cut a few extra so I don’t have to go through that again. Made some temporary mods to the saw and settled with knowing that mortar is my friend.

One thing I learned when making these thin cuts is to go super slow when the blade breaks through... there is a lot of blade deflection when cutting these and by slowing down it allows more time for the side cutter to take some material.

I made some notes in the pictures and I hope that worked.

Thanks, Mike V.

[UtahBeehiver]

Phase one complete. Be sure to mark you mortar joints on the arch template so you can make sure you do not get mortar creep.

[modified9v]

Yes, thank you, Utah... I’m going to make access holes on the template and paint it. After that I will mock it up on the table and mark it with mortar joints factored in. I’’m planning to make the inner tapers one brick, as needed, at a time. In other words the arch will come as it is needed to complete a course. If necessary I will custom make the keystone... oh, what am I saying, this is all custom and pretty fun now.

Thanks to those that follow, comment and help me through this... it is very much appreciated and I hope to be an asset for someone down the road.

Mike V.

[JRPizza]

Great to see you are getting it all figured out - you will need those skills when you build your fore and aft vent arches

[UtahBeehiver]

After the mock up is complete and all the joint marks are in place. Just keep the arch bricks ahead of the dome course, as mentioned before, it is easier to tie into the arch than visa versa. Be sure to factor in at least a 1/2" relief on the bottom of the arch form or you will not get the template out when the arch is complete.

[modified9v]

Thanks Russell and JR... motivated now. I have 3/4” relief with the legs on my arch template. Initially I had figured on a 20” x 12” inner arch... still at 20” wide but now I’m 13 1/2” tall... probably will just leave it at 13 1/2” unless advised differently. Should work and I do like the taller access. I plan to spend the afternoon making the template clean and get it mocked up. I did get that 1st course mortared in and hard enough mud left and placed a few bricks. Got real close to having mortar joints lined up... I have about a 1/2’ joint to joint. Can’t believe I let it get that close. I will try to not let that happen again.

Question: Do you believe there is any harm in setting one course with the cut face of the brick exposed to the fire side of the oven? Thought it might look cool when the fire is burning.... kind of like a signature course.

Thanks again folks, Mikie V.

[UtahBeehiver]

I used cut and factory faced towards inside, I choose the best looking surfaces facing in. Also remember to do you best work and best surface bricks in the rear half and make width adjustments on the front have (this area will not be seen once the dome is complete.

13.25" is spot on for the 63% of the dome height ratio.

[modified9v]

Thanks Russell... I kinda already screwed up and have my adjustment bricks straight in view (2 so far). I hope it doesn’t happen again. I will go one ring with the shiny side in just for giggles. I will stick with the 13.25. I need to shave a .25 off of the template to get there and that is no big deal as I have a bit of a wobble (one leg is a tad short).

Mikie V.

[modified9v]

OK... getting closer.I the attached picture the gaps are 3/16” cardboard and I’m left with an opening for the keystone of 1 3/16”. That is a pretty narrow keystone once I account for the mortar. Is that a problem? I could shoot for tighter gaps like say an 1/8” or try and go ZERO gap at template...? Thoughts? I think no matter what I will be cutting a custom keystone once I get there.

Thanks, Mikie V.

[UtahBeehiver]

I would makes some mortar thickness adjustments so the keystone at least matches the size of the rest of the arch at least from an aesthetics point of view. Structurally there is not an issue.

[modified9v]

OK... will tighten it up. Amazing how quickly the mortar gaps add up. Thanks!!!

[UtahBeehiver]

Keystones are typically at least the same size as the adjacent arch bricks and lots of time larger.

Since you said your keystone is going to be custom, I want to see one like this.

PS save the arch form, it will be used a a template for your oven door.

[modified9v]

Now that is custom.. Pretty cool. I did make another template for the door in case I destroy this one taking it out. I imagine it’s a real pain in the neck to make a door without that template.

[Gulf]

That is a nice keystone. But, If I were going to copy it, I would raise it up to match the reveal. That way a storm door can be easily fitted for the oven. I included a storm door to protect the oven from wind driven rain. Since then I have found other good reasons to include one. I came out one very cold morning to find a feral cat laying in the entry up against my inuslated door . I had to treat the entry with a good sanitizing fire . Another time, it was bird droppings. Same treatment. Needless to say, the storm door is in place at all tmes now when the oven is not in use.