32 Inch Cape Build

[mongota]

Once you get your arch template in/out location confirmed per what Russell wrote?

For your base bricks, the GREEN line is the radius of the inside of your dome (16"). The purple segment is an extension of the green line, the length of the purple segment is the same as the thickness of your dome (generally 4-1/2" when using half bricks).

With the green line (essentially your IT) anchored at the center of the floor, move the other end of it (the brick positioning end of your IT) left or right so the length of the PURPLE portion of the green line is the same as the thickness of your dome. Then cut the brick along the red and purple lines.

An alternative would be to use a piece of string anchored at the center point of the floor. Make two marks on the string, one 16" from the dome center, the other 20-1/2" (16" dome radius plus 4-1/2" dome thickness) from the dome center. Draw that string tight, hold it against the side of the arch brick, and mark the arch brick. Cut, place, move on to the next one.

If you were to use the strong method on the brick that I marked up in the photo, the 16" mark on the string would be on "inside of the dome" end of that purple line, the 20-1/2" mark would be at the "outside of the dome" end of the purple line.

Per your question, if you wanted to you could add a slight arc/curve to the edge of the brick that makes up the inside face of the dome. But no need. Unless you're having a really bad day down the road, it'll never be seen again once the dome gets plugged.

[CapePizza]

Thank you both for the help and suggestions. I'll post progress as I get further along. I'm sure (hope) it will all become clearer as I get into it, but I do appreciate the help. This forum (the members) has been really incredible as a resource and learning guide. A beacon in the night

[Neil.B]

Due to restricted overhead room, I built the arch with each row. This was very complicated due to the amount of different angles. Your arch is much easier.

Have you thought about having your opening higher and making some kind of adapter to reduce height when needed?
I have a 32" oven with a 12"*19" opening and planning on making an adapter depending on what I'm cooking i.e. Christmas turkey.

[CapePizza]

Hello Neil. I did not consider that however I did measure a dutch oven we have which I'd intend to use in the oven. That is the largest cooking vessel I'd probably use and did make sure that would fit. I've been watching your build. Certainly is an adventure this oven building.

[CapePizza]

Thanks again UtahBH and Mongo for the direction with laying out the dome arch transition. Working on that now, or at least marking out some rough thoughts.
I think there is also a 3rd line that would be created (not shown on my images below) that would pick up an edge of the brick from the row. Haven't gotten to that. But I see what is created by removing material as was shown in Russel's image (also posted below). Just not sure yet where that 3rd line comes from, what it's reference point is.

Does this look like I'm on the right track, though. Please see attached. Thanks again.
John

[Neil.B]

Adventure isn't the word...lol
I like your IT it looks very versatile.

[UtahBeehiver]

The concept is correct but try and make pencil as short as possible so not to affect the dimensions, the hypotenuse from the end of the pencil to the pivot point is longer when the pencil is extended so for out. The outside diameter can be marked easily from the inside diameter (which is the critical one) by measuring a half brick dimension. See if this makes sense, Start with the TDC, other arch bricks removed. Make all your measurement marks with the IT, both sides. By seeing the sides you can mark the ID curve of the oven (again short pencil), the slope of the brick is the same and the slope of the IT rod. Once the TDC is cut, looking from the inside of the arch out, The left side of the TDC arch brick will be the "same" as the right side of the next arch brick going left (so you can transfer the left TDC on to the right side next brick. Use the IT to make the angles and slope on the left side of the arch brick, repeat the process for the left side of the arch. Then reverse the process for the arch right of TDC.

[UtahBeehiver]

The third line is the inside curvature of the dome.

[mongota]

Does this look like I'm on the right track...

With the hypotenuse of your IT/pencil triangle being your inner and outer dome diameters, I believe that should work. Nice work figuring it out!
Now just mark the bottom edge of each brick, either at the inside dome diameter, OR where it meets the arch form. Some use the inside arch diameter, I happened to use the arch form. Connect those three markings (the two you made plus this third one) and start making brick dust! Hopefully brick sludge since you have a wet saw.

[mongota]

The concept is correct but try and make pencil as short as possible so not to affect the dimensions, the hypotenuse from the end of the pencil to the pivot point is longer when the pencil is extended so for out.

But if he registered the actual tip of the extended pencil to the inside and outside edges of the dome brick, and then didn't move the pencil within the holder, the distance from the center of floor to the pencil tip, or the hypotenuse, will be the correct dome radius, won't it?

[UtahBeehiver]

Maybe, maybe not. I did a quick calc. Assuming the length of the pencil point is 6" from the center of the IT rod, the arch inside and outside diameter increases about an 1" more or less. But that said, this mathematics and if it works fine, but I would double check diameters at the arch via a tape or steel ruler to confirm it works before cutting those hard work arch bricks.

[Kvanbael]

That's correct mongota, as long as your IT has only one moving part (the pivot), then it'll draw circles and spheres, regardless of its angles and twists.

CapePizza: I love your level of preparation, attention to detail and I particularly like your arch curve.

This might become an epic build.

[CapePizza]

Thank you very much for the follow up, suggestions, guidance, etc. I'll need some time to digest all this, but in the end will figure it out. I''m moving slowly at this point, more or less experimenting with this concept of cutting, laying out and configuring the brick and "building an oven". Also tinkering with all these new tools. I had built a compound mitering jig (photo attached) and started cutting bricks just to see how the bricks might fit together. After making a few cuts with compound angles I saw the jig was not going to give me the results I'd feel comfortable with...so from today's playing around I'm going to build a new jig that will provide a little more ease of use, a little more accuracy and one that can be used (maybe) on both the left side and right side of the saw table. I'm also thinking my IT needs to be a little more robust and more easily adjustable. Regarding your comment, Russel, about not extending the pencil so much.... I had tried using the "short" pencil but the arm of the IT was hitting the corner of the center arch brick and the pencil was not extending enough to contact the brick to draw the line. I think I had seen some ITs with a pivoting link in it (kind of break) that allowed the IT arm to pivot on itself to kind of bend over the corner of the brick. Good thing I'm not doing this as a paying job. It is challenging and fun, but definitely a learning experience. I need to get a better brush to clean away all those pesky brick crumbles that interfere with holding the bricks flush up against the saw fence.

[UtahBeehiver]

That is why I suggested removing the arch bricks from around the TDC then you can mark the OD from the side rather than the top. But do what you feel works for you. Doing an inner tapered arch, not matter how you do it, will pay off dividends in the arch to dome tie-ins.

[CapePizza]

I was a little confused by your last post (UtahBH)... can I ask you to be a bit more specific about "removing the arch bricks from around the TDC then you can mark the OD from the side rather than the top". What are you referring to as the "TDC"... not sure what that is. Thanks, appreciate it.