42" In South GA

[edonovan]

You are reading my mind JRPizza, we have been having rain all day today and I think for most of the beginning of the week, so it will be a good amount of planning for me.
Ok, so I have tried to read CAD pictures and definitely not my strong point, but from what I can understand the "inside" of your arch brick was in the neighborhood of 13.5" from center??

I am going for the tight inner joints that you have in your build, so from what I can see the bevel is the same direction on both sides of the brick, correct?

For the "out of round" when I set my IT at 21" it is a little bit away from holding the brick without having a (what I would consider) significant lip. And I know it isn't exact science but when I measure somewhat straight across ID I have 42.5 in some spots. I have done the "second" course (even though I think it is the first considering I "Stretchered" the first) and it is floor level, and started the 3rd (2nd in my eyes) maybe 8 bricks. I think we discussed earlier that you didn't use the spreadsheet, My IT is centered, but 1.38 above floor level, so I am wondering at what point I pull that back a bit? (will the spreadsheet help with that, I noticed that I mentions what course an adjustable IT should be set at.) That way I don't end up with a 22.38 high dome .

I will keep playing with that first arch brick at the floor level to see what I can do, from what I can see is my landing is flared and that may be why it looks angled.

Thanks again @ JRpizza and UtahBeehiver, yes I figured avalanche danger would be high this weekend, have fun for me when you can!

[JRPizza]

We have about a foot of snow in the yard here North of Seattle and feet upon feet of new up in the Cascades. I've been shoveling all morning, especially the flat roof over the oven.
I'll look at my models and see if I have one for a 42" oven to check for arch placement. I measured from the center point to the forward edge of the arch as that surface is flat and is what we would call at work as a datum. I just checked my 39 and it was at 22.5". For a full 9" brick the inside edge would have indeed been at 13.3

[edonovan]

JRPizza isn't that is unusual for the ol PNW? I am actually originally from Everett and grew up in Lake Stevens, WA...moved to Daytona Beach when I was 13...quite the culture (and weather) shock.
Thank you, let me know if you find a 42".

[JRPizza]

Sorry, no 42". I found a 1.1 meter oven (43.3"0 and a 36 but no 42. For reference the 43+ oven had the arch right about 24.4" from center.
This is a good time to look at the protrusion of the arch for different builds. Some have the arch moved towards center as much as practical, leaving almost zero lip at the top, whereas some go for max protrusion which is closer to what I did. It is mostly a matter of choice but also effects how deep your vent area is. You want to plan this as you probably don't want to come up short and have extra space between the front of the landing and the edge of your stand, and you don't want to come up long and have to add material to your stand as some folks have.
PS, funny that I live very close to Everett and have family in Lake Stevens. I live just North of Lynnwood by Martha Lake.

[MarkJerling]

A mate of mine (on my photography forum) lives near to the little airplane factory and works there. He's had quite a bit of snow.

[edonovan]

Thanks again JRPizza I will start playing with measurements between the 43" and yours. And may be back if I can't figure out this first arch brick cut without doing that wedge and mortaring a good amount on that backside...
While I got you, how much heat loss and is it worth it to pull up my vent area floor right past my arch (once I figure it out) and cut in a heat break? I already have the image in my head for the heat break for around my vent arch, but wasn't sure about how important it is for the floor.

[JRPizza]

Like many others, I put in a heat break just in case". We all know decoupling the vent area that you don't need to keep hot from the dome that you do makes sense, so the relatively small additional work seems like the right thing to do. For my vent floor I just made a 1/4 inch gap that eventually filled with ash. Some builds have put a section of metal channel in the gap but I didn't see the necessity other than maybe aesthetics. You can see what I did with the upper vent in my build thread.

[edonovan]

It's the simple things in life...like not being called a Peasant anymore!!! yay!!!

[Baza]

edonovan Congrats on the progress and the new title ... it is the little things - awesome!
You have begun a great project and are asking all the good questions - you have amazing people here that will be of ENORMOUS help going forward.

Dino_Pizza was one of the many folks that helped me - he put together some good drawings that helped with layouts HERE.
Maybe they can help you ... they did with my 42" build.
JRPizza makes a good point about heat breaks - I went forward with one in the floor and will continue to do so as the builders here that have done remarkable work and been phenomenally supportive have all added some kind of heat break in a "why not" approach - I think they are happy for the containment of heat - and the mitigation of expansion. I used thermal tape in the notched vent floor landing to make the 'invisible' break. I'm sure there will be some heat bleed - but nominal.

Keep the pics, commentary and questions coming! You are in great company here!
Barry

[edonovan]

Thanks @baza!! Was out of town this weekend and have had a good amount of rain the past week, so it has been a lot of looking through builds and contemplating "what did I get myself into?" ... I have come to a couple conclusions that have held me up...
1) perfection is not the key and (as I have read on here) "mortar is my friend" (on the backside)
2) definitely cutting in a heat break on the entry floor (because why not)
3) not tapering arch entry bricks, as I "played around" with trying to as to keep mortar joints thin...I am working with a chop saw and It just was determined to be too much work then what it is worth and lookin over several builds that didn't taper...they look great!

Question I found today playing around...As I have noted before my IT wasn't help too much for the first-second course, but it looks like I am back on track on the next course without giving the inside too much of a lip...NOW...as I go up..say two more courses and hold next to my "arch/dome height gauge" I start to get further out.
1) should I adjust IT back when I get to that course to stay in line with my gauge?
2) I need to figure out how much I am going to shorten it (if that is the correct route) before cutting/tapering my inside arch bricks as It will affect where they intersect, correct?

[MarkJerling]

The problem is that your IT hinge point is higher than the floor. So, yes, with the IT pivoting there, it will continuously make the whole thing to tall. If you're able to, set your IT into the floor so that your pivot point is level with the top of the floor. Most people do that by removing the centre floor tile and replacing it at the end.

[edonovan]

Thanks MarkJerling, yeah if you look at post #46 you can almost tell that the fork bolt that I could find is fairly long...I will see if I can recess more to get it closer to floor level, but am also afraid of any extra play when pivoting. If I can't get it lower do I just make incremental adjustments to stay in line with my "dome jig"? and not end up with a 43" high dome? and how would I "estimate" the "joining" of the inner arch?

[MarkJerling]

Thanks MarkJerling, yeah if you look at post #46 you can almost tell that the fork bolt that I could find is fairly long...I will see if I can recess more to get it closer to floor level, but am also afraid of any extra play when pivoting. If I can't get it lower do I just make incremental adjustments to stay in line with my "dome jig"? and not end up with a 43" high dome? and how would I "estimate" the "joining" of the inner arch?

I think the best fix, at this point, is to get a shorter "bolt", or shorten the bolt. The difficulty with incremental adjustments is that, unless you set those to a jig, it's pretty hard to make the correct adjustment at every brick course. For the joining of the inner arch, if your IT is working as it should it will guide you both with placing your dome and lining up your arch. I also built a formwork for my door arches so that made life easier too.

[edonovan]

Thanks @markjerling...I will see what I can do and update when I can.

[edonovan]

Alright, got my pivot point as close to floor level as I could...it is no more than 1/4 to 3/8 above floor level. Now, as I was staring at my thrown together IT (no access to welder and plastered IT looked easy enough) is this block of wood messing something up? I still am having to slowly creep the next two courses inward as to not have a huge lip...but it does start to match up around the 4th course (once I have crept inward). This is really starting to frustrate me (again possibly looking for perfection), I had already started 3 course before several days of rain, going to finish that today and possibly cut heat break in entry and lay /plan arch some more.