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42" In South GA

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  • edonovan
    replied
    @markjeling and I think I know who that one friend would be...I won't invite them over too often LOL

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  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Originally posted by edonovan View Post
    Thanks @markjerling...yeah as I keep walking out to it and looking at it I get mad at myself for "going for it", even thought about taking those bricks out for a quick minute, then asked myself "what am I thinking?" LOL...but hey, I am in line with IT now and working upwards!
    Don't worry about it. As often with these sorts of things, no-one else will notice anyway. They'll all be complimenting you on your fantastic pizzas! But notice a little step in the oven walls? No way. Except probably for that one friend.....

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  • edonovan
    replied
    Thanks @markjerling...yeah as I keep walking out to it and looking at it I get mad at myself for "going for it", even thought about taking those bricks out for a quick minute, then asked myself "what am I thinking?" LOL...but hey, I am in line with IT now and working upwards!

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  • MarkJerling
    replied
    It won't hurt function, but I would have eased into it. I have found with my rudimentary bricklaying skills that gradual corrections are almost impossible to spot later. (And I made lots of gradual corrections. LOL)

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  • edonovan
    replied
    SLIGHTLY less frustrated...... Thank you both @ plastered and UtahBeehiver I have re worked my IT per the drawing from plastered. I feel much better about the new version, and intersecting the brick as close to center as I think I can get. The other good photo is nice tight joint lines, maybe the beginning of a slight inverted V (still figuring that one out and playing around with some scrap bricks) and the other photo is the new frustration . As I am coming up and laying course 4 I had already thought what you just mentioned UtahBeehiver, about things compounding...so I figured what the heck...lets just follow this IT and see where it takes me, so I am back on track...well that there is one FAT lip...I think this is largest on that course of what I finished and just under a 1/2. Is this just aesthetics? will it hurt oven function? I figure I can *kinda* get over this ugly part if it still works and I keep moving right along.
    I may be rushing some of this a little as long as it all works as best as possible due to the fact that it is almost March and I know "the oven" known as S. GA summer (we really don't get any spring ) is coming.
    Thanks again everyone

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    As plastered showed in his diagram the green line is correct alignment for the IT pivot to brick face. The line from from the pivot point along the rod must intersect the center of the face of the brick. By adding the spacer mid point the intersection is off and does not allow the correct tilt of the brick face to be perpendicular to the center of the oven. This error is cumulative and get worse as you go up. I would step back and adjust IT now.

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  • edonovan
    replied
    Thank you plastered, yes I do know it is not perfectly 42" all the way around. I will double check that intersection point. I have to say your intro of "never having done masonry" and did it all with chop saw and angle grinder is definitely one of my biggest motivating factors.

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  • plastered
    replied
    t could be that your circular floor is off a little bit, that is not perfectly circular. I definitely had some issues where it wasn't perfect on the 3rd or so courses, where there was a tiny lip, and I think this was because my circular floor wasn't perfect. It shouldn't be a huge deal in my opinion. In my attached pic on the right side your can see some of the overhang.

    I'm assuming your IT was measured appropriately, but I'll note that the center of the wood coming out of the pivot point should line up with the center of a brick. I drew a picture to explain. X is half the height of a brick. So half of the thickness of the green stick plus the whole thickness of the purple should be equal to half the height of a brick.



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  • edonovan
    replied
    Alright, got my pivot point as close to floor level as I could...it is no more than 1/4 to 3/8 above floor level. Now, as I was staring at my thrown together IT (no access to welder and plastered IT looked easy enough) is this block of wood messing something up? I still am having to slowly creep the next two courses inward as to not have a huge lip...but it does start to match up around the 4th course (once I have crept inward). This is really starting to frustrate me (again possibly looking for perfection), I had already started 3 course before several days of rain, going to finish that today and possibly cut heat break in entry and lay /plan arch some more.

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  • edonovan
    replied
    Thanks @markjerling...I will see what I can do and update when I can.

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  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Originally posted by edonovan View Post
    Thanks MarkJerling, yeah if you look at post #46 you can almost tell that the fork bolt that I could find is fairly long...I will see if I can recess more to get it closer to floor level, but am also afraid of any extra play when pivoting. If I can't get it lower do I just make incremental adjustments to stay in line with my "dome jig"? and not end up with a 43" high dome? and how would I "estimate" the "joining" of the inner arch?
    I think the best fix, at this point, is to get a shorter "bolt", or shorten the bolt. The difficulty with incremental adjustments is that, unless you set those to a jig, it's pretty hard to make the correct adjustment at every brick course. For the joining of the inner arch, if your IT is working as it should it will guide you both with placing your dome and lining up your arch. I also built a formwork for my door arches so that made life easier too.

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  • edonovan
    replied
    Thanks MarkJerling, yeah if you look at post #46 you can almost tell that the fork bolt that I could find is fairly long...I will see if I can recess more to get it closer to floor level, but am also afraid of any extra play when pivoting. If I can't get it lower do I just make incremental adjustments to stay in line with my "dome jig"? and not end up with a 43" high dome? and how would I "estimate" the "joining" of the inner arch?

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  • MarkJerling
    replied
    The problem is that your IT hinge point is higher than the floor. So, yes, with the IT pivoting there, it will continuously make the whole thing to tall. If you're able to, set your IT into the floor so that your pivot point is level with the top of the floor. Most people do that by removing the centre floor tile and replacing it at the end.

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  • edonovan
    replied
    Thanks @baza!! Was out of town this weekend and have had a good amount of rain the past week, so it has been a lot of looking through builds and contemplating "what did I get myself into?" ... I have come to a couple conclusions that have held me up...
    1) perfection is not the key and (as I have read on here) "mortar is my friend" (on the backside)
    2) definitely cutting in a heat break on the entry floor (because why not)
    3) not tapering arch entry bricks, as I "played around" with trying to as to keep mortar joints thin...I am working with a chop saw and It just was determined to be too much work then what it is worth and lookin over several builds that didn't taper...they look great!

    Question I found today playing around...As I have noted before my IT wasn't help too much for the first-second course, but it looks like I am back on track on the next course without giving the inside too much of a lip...NOW...as I go up..say two more courses and hold next to my "arch/dome height gauge" I start to get further out.
    1) should I adjust IT back when I get to that course to stay in line with my gauge?
    2) I need to figure out how much I am going to shorten it (if that is the correct route) before cutting/tapering my inside arch bricks as It will affect where they intersect, correct?

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  • Baza
    replied
    edonovan Congrats on the progress and the new title ... it is the little things - awesome!
    You have begun a great project and are asking all the good questions - you have amazing people here that will be of ENORMOUS help going forward.

    Dino_Pizza was one of the many folks that helped me - he put together some good drawings that helped with layouts HERE.
    Maybe they can help you ... they did with my 42" build.
    JRPizza makes a good point about heat breaks - I went forward with one in the floor and will continue to do so as the builders here that have done remarkable work and been phenomenally supportive have all added some kind of heat break in a "why not" approach - I think they are happy for the containment of heat - and the mitigation of expansion. I used thermal tape in the notched vent floor landing to make the 'invisible' break. I'm sure there will be some heat bleed - but nominal.

    Keep the pics, commentary and questions coming! You are in great company here!
    Barry

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