36" Corner Build in Minnesota

[MnDude45]

Yes, I have been adjusting for slight differences in distance and angle for each course. Thanks for the reminder.

[MnDude45]

Today was a good day. I completed the inner arch and it appears to be lined up right. If not, it is what it is now.

[NCMan]

You're on your way....lookin' good.

[UtahBeehiver]

All rightly, you figured it out. This is one of most difficult concepts for builders to visualize.

[Gulf]

Looks great. If it hasn't been mentioned earlier in the thread, now is the time to take actions to avoid the "dreaded droop".

[MnDude45]

Gulf - I see it in the corners where the dome meets the arch. Great reminder and I’ll try to compensate in the next row.

[Gulf]

Just in case you haven't read similar posts, I think that this is a good thread that will help keep builders from getting it. What is the "Dreaded Droop".

[RandyJ]

If you get the droop it is not the end of the world. It can be fixed as you go. Just is a bit of a pain to deal with. I had it on my oven and some place there are pictures of me putting a bunch of slivers in over the door to get back to round.

[MnDude45]

Thanks for the feedback. I got another course down today. I can see how easy it is to get stung by the droop. I need to keep on eye on it.

[MnDude45]

Another course down today. I was really conscious of the droop today after all the warnings. The dome really fights you on this point. I felt it was better to put away the IT and use the level on the bricks that meet the arch.

[UtahBeehiver]

Once you clear the arch the IT will come in handy again. Just make correction over several courses.

[Gulf]

I found the IT really "indispensable" at this stage. It was like a third hand to me. It will still set the pitch for you while you are eyeballing the level.

[MnDude45]

I used the IT for the whole course except for the blocks meeting the arch. I will continue to use it but that transition to the arch really is tricky.

[MnDude45]

I have a question regarding cold temperatures. Here in Minnesota we've had a warm summer and a mild fall thus far but we've got frost warnings coming. I have 5 courses left plus the outer arch to go before I would plan on running the curing fires. I'm thinking that after that is complete, I will shut down until spring. The average highs/lows are dropping and with sub-freezing low temps expected to be the norm beginning in November.

Anyone have thoughts on the impact of colder temps on the dome and mortar prior to running the curing fires?

[NCMan]

I have a question regarding cold temperatures. Here in Minnesota we've had a warm summer and a mild fall thus far but we've got frost warnings coming. I have 5 courses left plus the outer arch to go before I would plan on running the curing fires. I'm thinking that after that is complete, I will shut down until spring. The average highs/lows are dropping and with sub-freezing low temps expected to be the norm beginning in November.

Anyone have thoughts on the impact of colder temps on the dome and mortar prior to running the curing fires?

As long as you keep it all from freezing, you're fine. Actually, cooler weather is better for all cement, as it slows down the curing process. No way do you let it freeze, though.