Treehouse Pizza

[david s]

2" thick is on the thin side. The strength of a concrete slab is proportional to the square of its thickness. This equates to a 3” slab being more than double the strength of a 2” one and a 4” slab 4 X stronger. Other factors to consider: What are you planning regards to reinforcing and what span between piers? You mighy be better off getting a truck mix delivered.

[RandyJ]

Thanks for chiming in david s the counter top mix has fiberglass reinforcement strands built into the mix and is made for pouring into a form then moving onto the final location later. I had thought of adding some rebar but 2"is kind of thin for that. I don't want to get to thick as it just keeps moving the work surface up and up. I plan to build a cabinet more or less out of steel studs covered by cement board all will be securely fastened to the stand and slab with quick bolts. I have some left over from a project at work that are stainless. I will put a few cross peices to help support the cement board that will hold the counter tops.

I used Dump trailer ready mix for everything thing else so for. This is not as much volume so i was not as sure about that. Also they don't do the fiber reinforced that way. Also I would have to stain after installation versus added to the mix.

On a separate note. I just ordered I believe everything I need to change the chimney to a insulated one. So hopefully it doesn't take as long for it to come in as they stated as it is listed as the middle of June. And that will start being kind of tight on my deadline.

Randy

[david s]

If it's any use I went down a similar road and my solution was as follows:
Span 1m (39")
Slab dimensions 60mm (2 1/2") x 870mm (34" x 2050mm (81")
Steel reinforcing 6mm weldmesh plus AR glass fibres
Cantilevering

[Toiletman]

Hey Toiletman , I am a Commercial / Industrial Electrician by trade. I like to try to stay on the industrial side of things doing rigid pipe installation and control work. I want nothing to do with residential work and try to stay away from most commercial stuff too if I can. As far as routing I do not like to draw things our I can just see where I want to goand usually can tell if it will work just by looking. I hate when we get preplanned cad drawings as it almost never fits where they say.

I will have to go find your build and take a look. part of why i even started this project is because i am working close to home currently. I am only like 2 miles from home and normally I am 20 to 65 miles from home. So i have some extre time so i am just trying to hammer this out quickly before I have to go to a different job site or wind up doing overtime. I also tend to get a bit obsessed with projects and have a one track mind on these things. I also have to admit the kit makes this super easy combine that with having built one before and it is a recipe for flying through the build. I only started digging like 3ish weeks ago. And got the kit just over a week ago.

This is some of the pipes I ran. This is 3 x 3.5" rigid conduits and 2 x 3" this was a fun project and this was just the prep work and we went in on Thanksgiving to finish the run and pull the wire in.

Randy

Cool to know, and nice work! I'm always amazed that you can just do it on site and just plan it by looking. I typically plan everything out in CAD and then probably spend too much time thinking about all the little details. Also interesting to see metal pipes for electrical lines. I'm not sure our code here would even allow that, typically things are PCV and/or open metal trays. Funny how 'gospel' can be so different in different countries.

I can also fully second the joy of living close to work: lots of extra time at home instead of spending it in traffic. In my case I can even go on bike, so I get the free exercise as well. Ofcourse the netherlands is a small country, so if I'd draw a 65 mile radius around my house I'd have covered half the country and a significant amount of the circle would lie in Belgium and Germany .

Btw I work on the waterlines of these machines. So also lots of work in water piping, but also miles and miles of electrical wiring.

The above post has now been followed up by a lot of buildpics and you have been speeding ahead like crazy. Great job man, you even managed to close the dome already! I'll see if I can add my two cents on the counter concrete discussion in a separate post.

[Toiletman]

2" thick is on the thin side. The strength of a concrete slab is proportional to the square of its thickness. This equates to a 3” slab being more than double the strength of a 2” on and a 4” slab 4 X stronger. Other factors to consider: What are you planning regards to reinforcing and what span between piers? You mighy be better off getting a truck mix delivered.

With regards to thickness that is true for a uniform material, but since concrete is typically reinforced you have to calculate as if the concrete is cracked. (ie. tensile loads are carried by the steel). Compared to normal stiffness&strength calculations it's a whole different ballpark. But I do agree with you that 2" seems on the thin side. RandyJ Could you provide a sketch of the spans you are planning to cover? If i understand you correctly you will support it with a frame made from steel studs?

If it helps anything: In my oven I've included a 'tool' space, which is provided by an almost 3" slab supported on three sides, with a 'free' span of 1300x750mm (see picture). I have no experience with the counter top mix, so not sure what advantages it offers to 'normal' concrete, although I would assume you do need it to get your nice and smooth/dense surface layer.
Pouring a 'normal' base layer and the proper stuff on top probably also makes no sense, especially if you only have 2" of height to go with anyway.

Btw david s: nice outdoor kitchen! Now I might also have to consider a concrete finish...

[RandyJ]

On a slightly different note we went out for our 20th anniversary tonight to Bricks pizza in Hudson Wi. We got their Hot Honey and their Chimichurri pizza. Both were very good and made me even more excited to get the oven operational.

Randy

[RandyJ]

Hey guys the side wings will be ballpark 36" deep by 45" wide. The plan is that nothing will be a free or open span. I have 18 gage track that will form the top and bottom along with 18 gage studs that will form the vertical parts. I plan to rush a few additional cross members front to back to help support the counter tops. Sorry I am not very good at drawing out my visions I hope my description helps. The main reason I went with the heavier gage studs is to help give the slab more support.

This is the mix I was looking - menards

I will hope this link works

I guess if everyone thinks 2.5" would make a difference I could probably make that work. I am just trying to figure this out so that I can keep rolling along.

Randy

[Toiletman]

Hey guys the side wings will be ballpark 36" deep by 45" wide. The plan is that nothing will be a free or open span. I have 18 gage track that will form the top and bottom along with 18 gage studs that will form the vertical parts. I plan to rush a few additional cross members front to back to help support the counter tops. Sorry I am not very good at drawing out my visions I hope my description helps. The main reason I went with the heavier gage studs is to help give the slab more support.
...

If everything is supported I wouldn't worry too much about making it much thicker. If you google a little bit you find stuff going below 1" even. You might find a lot of info here: concrete countertop institute

[Toiletman]

Hi UtahBeehiver what's the reason for removing hyperlinks? It's not like we are posting commercial links or anything, just trying to help each other out with info?

[UtahBeehiver]

You are welcome to post non commercial information or non hyperlink info, ie PDFs, screen shots, except commercial products, etc. We have had several hijacking of the website where we have lost members posts and information. It requires a lot of time to restore. Hyperlinks can be a source of spamming and or phishing so we generally do not allow which is part of the Forum Guidelines (https://community.fornobravo.com/for...rum-disclaimer). We try and screen as possible all phishing and scamming attempts, which include hyperlinks.

[RandyJ]

Sorry UtahBeehiver I had not ment to cause a issue.

Well I have managed to get a little bit done on building the countercounters. I am almost done building the first side. I wish I had a better way to cut the metal but I am making the grinder work. The studs are to thick for a tin snip they are feeling very solid so far. I want to put a few more quick bolts in but shot some 3/4" ramset nails in to pn it down.

Randy

[RandyJ]

Ok I managed to get a bit more done today. I finished cutting all the metal studs and got it all screwed together. It really surprises me just how solid these wings are. I realize that they are anchored on 2 sides into concrete but still. I am not sure I could budge them even if I put all my weight into it. And that was before I started putting the hardie backer on to it. That stuff is so heavy and dense it is unreal. Hopefully I will get a bit of time tomorrow to cover the other side and maybe put the front vent arch in place. And maybe the vent this weekend if I can get a bit of help. Once that is on I need to hammer out the insulation so I can get ready to pour the counter tops and start on the rendering. A few days after that I will be able to start the curring fires. I am also going to have to pick out a mini fridge and make a final decision about the stone veneer. I am about 99% sure I will end up doing the same kind and color as last time. Then build the pavilion and consider what to do for a walking area in front of the oven.

Randy

[RandyJ]

There was a little gap in the rain this afternoon when I got home so I quickly got the othe side all cover in hardie board. Now that that is complete I will need to do a little trimming to get everything nice and tight. I think I am going to try to convince my son to crawl into the oven and fill the few voids in the brick that are there. And wash it off to get it all cleaned up. I kept pretty much everything clean as I built so no big worries there so pretty much just clean what we smear on.

Once that is done then I will go after the vent archas that is my last bit of masonry work left on the dome. I can also start on the insulation after that is on too. Not that I have the cement board on that's the next big push is getting it insulated so I can put their water proofing system in place and then pour my counter tops. the stone i think we are going to use will be about 1-2" in thickness so i am thinking I will do a 3" overhang all the way around.

Randy

[RandyJ]

I finally got around to laying the front vent arch this morning. It went together very nicely. I mixed the mortar a little wetter than I had been and everything squished out very nicely and allowed me to get everything together and even. Once that was all together I got impatient and finally broke down and called for a bit of help to put the vent into place. I was just not certain I could lift the thing into place by myself without bumping anything. Luckily with a friend's help I lifted the vent into place and got it all mortared in. It feels very good to have all the brick work donenow. I just looked back and I am almost 20 days ahead of last time at this date. I am hoping that I will make my deadline. I know it doesn't really matter but gives me a reason to keep pushing. Now according to the directions I need to wait for a full week to start the curring fire's.

Giovanni Rossi did you have the pearllite layer on for all your curring fire's? Or should i plan to have all that done before i start any fire's?

Randy

[david s]

I finally got around to laying the front vent arch this morning. It went together very nicely. I mixed the mortar a little wetter than I had been and everything squished out very nicely and allowed me to get everything together and even. Once that was all together I got impatient and finally broke down and called for a bit of help to put the vent into place. I was just not certain I could lift the thing into place by myself without bumping anything. Luckily with a friend's help I lifted the vent into place and got it all mortared in. It feels very good to have all the brick work donenow. I just looked back and I am almost 20 days ahead of last time at this date. I am hoping that I will make my deadline. I know it doesn't really matter but gives me a reason to keep pushing. Now according to the directions I need to wait for a full week to start the curring fire's.

Giovanni Rossi did you have the pearllite layer on for all your curring fire's? Or should i plan to have all that done before i start any fire's?

Randy

You wouldn't want to void the manufacturers warranty so their instructions should be followed. But, as there have been numerous reports of new unisulated ovens being fired to dry them out and resulting in cracking of the inner shell you should be cautious. The reason is that the difference between the inner surface of the chamber and the outer surfaceis far greater if the oven is uninsulated. This temperature difference ican lead to thermal shock and is part of the reason you should wait a week. Both sun and wind on the oven before insulation will do a lot to remove a lot of the water. This drying week of course depends on your weather conditions.Once the insulation layer(s) are on the difference between the inner and outer surface temperatures is reduced providing a much safer environment to reduce thermal shock.