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What are these supports made of. Seems to me you sould be able to bolt more angle iron to the existing steel to extend a shelf. Add a few 45 degree braces and build from there.
After watching the below video on different meal ideas with the oven (http://www.woodstone-corp.com/training_fireworks02_video.htm), I have decided to see if I can add a 8" or 10" shelf, probably granite or marble, across the front of the oven at vent floor level. The question is how best to secure/build a shelf and support now that I'm wheres I'm at.
I've included some pictures of the current situation - 2" of angle iron showing topped by 2.5 " of concrete pad.
Would holes drilled horizontal into the pad - maybe 5 or 6 across the front - rebar inserted and bent up to support a poured pad? Something simpler?
Trying to get a waterproof finish on the roof has been.... trying. Trying to cut flashing that spans the ridge cap as well as fits around the ribbing of the roof panels is not working out. i think I'm going to build a box around the flue, eliminate the circle aspect of the cuts and flash the box to the roof and flue. The irony is, due to incessant rain and occasional snow, I can't remove the canopy to finish the roof so i can disense with the canopy!
I think I'd move to warmer climes if it wasn't for this oven out back.....
It's funny you should mention the vent pipe... I'm currently struggling with how it's going to work.
Most of the flashing I have seen is pre-cut and shaped for the side of the roof, not the peak. It also has to match the pitch of the roof. My intention is to have the pipe come up through the peak bu haven't finalized the best way to insure it doesn't leak around the pipe. I already have the dura-vent but will probably add some height to it with another section.
My current thinking is to build a box that straddles the plywood sheeting at the peak and bring the vent up through that. The roof itself is going to be metal (Champion Metal of Washington - changed).
With all this said - I am wide open to ideas and suggestions. Nothing worse than a leaking oven!
Bill, your airplane looks great! If it don't fly, it'll keep the oven dry at least. Say, where is your vent pipe going to go? Will it be thru the peak of your gable or angled to the side?
Your doing a great job, the roof pitch is nice, very pleasant and proportioned looking. Cheers, Dino
Cure is done though I'm waiting for a backordered anchor plate so I can raise the flue. To do that I need to lose the canopy. Which means I need to cover the oven... So... Been focused on the roof for now.
Tomorrow I'll see what metal roofing looks good in the snow.
Good looking steel work Bill. Hopefully you you've managed not to cut your self. I pick up a load of surplus studs this week off a friends construction project and am looking forward to working with them. How is your oven cure working out?
Cheers,
A little rain, sleet, snow and sun today. I was so confused I moved to the garage to build rafters. I can't say enough about getting a good pair of tin snips when working with the metal studs. Much easier now then when I was using an ancient pair that I've had for decades.
Using ideas from others it was simple to make a template for the rafters. Then it's just a lot of snipping and bending.
Bill,
Correct on the cold weather firings. Kind of the same thing after a month or so of non-use during long wet winters (read: Seattle). Cjim pointed out that it is very wise to go gentle with the early firing during these times. Start slow and let the dome adjust to the drastic change in conditions over a half hour to an hour. If I'm not in a hurry, I almost always start my fire a couple of hours prior to P-time. That way, there's no rush and I can gradually build the fire up without worrying about stressing my baby out.
I've never used the steel studs before. I actually had a hard time finding them at Home Depot , Lowes, etc. I did find them at a local builders hardware supplier (Dunn Lumber). I used Google quite a bit to learn anyhting I could. I can see the benefit of a chop saw with a metal cutting blade. Would be much simpler than the tin snips. I learned a lot by looking at some of the other builds that used the steel framing (Breven, etc.) I am definately going to upgrade my tin snips. The walls seem pretty flimsy till I tied the 3 walls together. Should improve more with sheeting. And gloves are a great idea.
I still don't know the finish I'm heading towards but that's not unusual...
Your build looks great and I'm blown away by your sketch ups. Need to try and learn that...
It's an interesting blend of so many materials we get to learn - brick, mortar, ceramic board and blanket, cement, steel studs, veneer stone, etc. Never a dull moment and I think that's half the fun.
Enjoy the process. I can tell already that pizza might be the goal but building the oven is going to be at least half the fun.
George, thanks for the kind words. Yes, 20/20 vision would be great though it would take some of the adventure out of this process.
Next time.... I think extra care needs to be taken when working with curing starting from 33 degrees. I doubt the freezing weather has helped make the mortar any stronger. Also, I would take more care making sure every void is filled when backfilling in between bricks, etc. Plus, I've got lots of mortar relative o some you artisans and wet saw samurai.
Hi Bill, Great pics of your steel stud work. Is this your 1st time working with steel stud framing? Is it pretty straight foreword, just buy the stuff at Home Depot and it works or is there some tricks to it? It looks like I'll be doing something similar to yours in framing a structure around the dome.
Great job, and congratulations on your curing fires. I can't fathom ever being at that point. It feels like cutting bricks and mortaring goes on forever. Dino
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