Re: Pizza Bob's 42" Build
You're work is so nice that I'm really hesitant to let anyone see pictures of mine. Nice job.
Joe
You're work is so nice that I'm really hesitant to let anyone see pictures of mine. Nice job.
Joe
It was in the low 30's here the other night - you are correct, that cold is a comin'!
He thinks as the oven heats up and cools down and expands and contracts the thicker mortar joints act as a "cushion" of sorts to allow the bricks to expand without cracking. I seem to think the HeatSop 50 sets-up harder than the bricks but I haven't done any testing to prove that.
Also, the two #$%@!#&$# bricks that transitioned into the arch are slightly steeper angle than the rest of the course. The next course will need to lay a little flatter (less mortar) in this area. It seems like I stayed away from the dreaded tear-drop shape. If anything I might have to use 1/3 cut bricks for the next course in this area so I don't get a large gap where the two #$%@!#&$# bricks meet.
But I have been posting every course so why stop now. I wish I took pictures of the two bricks before mortaring them in. I basically used my hands as a fixture and the tile saw as a 5-axis grinder!
). Both surfaces of this v-groove need to be angled back until it fits properly against your arch and dome bricks. Just take a cut and and match it up to where it will be mortared in. You'll see the angle will need to be cut probably 8 - 12 times before it fits perfectly.But as you cut these angles on both surfaces of the v-groove (when I say both surfaces - there is a long surface and a shorter surface that form this v-groove) make sure you do not change your initial cut that was transferred from the cardboard. The radius in the v-groove that you see in the image below was just "whittled" away by holding the brick in my hands and using the tile saw as a pedestal grinder and rotating the brick to get a nice transition of the two surfaces. Nobody will ever see this radius but a sharp corner there can introduce a stress riser or an area for a crack to form. As you progress on to the next course you will need to make the "longer" surface of the v-groove longer to overlap the course underneath it. This will allow you to continually close-in your circle at the arch transition. Just keep an eye out for the "tear-drop" shape
). This can be avoided by slightly overlapping each transition brick from course to course. Take a close look at pictures I posted earlier in my thread and you'll notice this overlap.
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