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Bacterium's 2nd build

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  • Bacterium
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    Ok, got my head down and tinkered with my arch template so managed to get them all to fit. Well ok I shaved a couple mm from the top 2. obviously didn't angle cut each one. I think I will try that in the outer arch

    just doing row 8 of the dome now....lay one, wait a couple mins....lay another. Gravity is there.... I'm tempted to go #9 like this

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  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    Originally posted by Bacterium View Post
    I guess the inner arch is less visible and I probably fluked my first build.

    Stonecutter I can tighten it up and do a key as you suggest. Would there still be too much mortar on the back edge (eg.10mm) or doesn't it matter once key it.
    I'm thinking I'd still use wedge pieces hidden among the mortar to help......or is this not right?
    I don't personally see an issue with doing this. Like you said, it's the inner arch..it is not highly visible once you build the vent walls and outer arch. That said, the arch should have a key in the center...to put it in layman's terms - it is what helps lock everything together.

    My suggestion above was because you have already mortared in the springer and two voussoirs. If you don't mind breaking them out, then go the way brickie suggests....use centering for your key and voussoir layout. Otherwise, you should be able to use your form to mark out new shapes for the remaining arch brick to make room for a key.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bacterium
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    Ok so if I lose the 40mm (by trimming the arch form), that will bring them down and together.....then I don't need a cut down centre keystone.

    Gee working the grey matter .....ok then I can dry lay again then sort the back cuts where it joins into the dome.

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  • brickie in oz
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    Mark the center line of the arch then 38mm from each side of the center line, this will give you the top (keystone brick, although they are all keystones) 10mm each side for a joint, 75 per brick each side etc, etc, etc.

    Edit:- Looking at your pic you need to get rid of 40mm to make it all work.
    Last edited by brickie in oz; 03-27-2013, 01:33 AM.

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  • Bacterium
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    Thanks all......brickie I see my form is the prob and the point I should adjust
    Having a Sparkie/IT geek background I don't visualise it to we'll......most things are hidden from view
    Ah hey I admit my oven build is not setting a high standard for what happens on here.....but I'm itchin for some WFO pizza

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  • brickie in oz
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    When making arch templates its best to make it all work bricks before you cut it, otherwise you end up in your situation.

    Mark out the bricks (vousoirrs, spelling?) on the template and adjust to suit.
    Your arch template is flat to start with so take it out and take a tad off it with a saw until it works bricks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bacterium
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    I guess the inner arch is less visible and I probably fluked my first build.

    Stonecutter I can tighten it up and do a key as you suggest. Would there still be too much mortar on the back edge (eg.10mm) or doesn't it matter once key it.
    I'm thinking I'd still use wedge pieces hidden among the mortar to help......or is this not right?

    Please keep your comments coming as the penny will drop

    Leave a comment:


  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    You can tighten up the voussoirs to make room for a key in the center. Use your arch template/form for your centering, and to find the angle at which to cut your bricks.

    Leave a comment:


  • ATK406
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    I'm not a scratch on some of the talented folks here, but I'll give you my .02 anyway.

    I struggled with my first arch too...it looked a lot like yours too. I guess I still wasn't used to using the saw. My first attempt at the outer arch had the same large mortar gaps as you are showing in your pictures. After learning to taper my bricks during the inner arch and dome construction, I had another go at the outer arch (the fact that it had already busted loose somewhere along the way certainly helped). By tapering the bricks I was able to reduce the mortar gap to the correct thickness and control the shape/geometry of the arch to my liking.

    You've already got a nice form to follow. It doesn't look round, more like a 1/2 circle flattened on the top and sides. I would use untapered bricks for the top and sides and taper the bricks where the radius is tighter in the corners. This might not be easy to do depending on the size/clearance of your saw. But you could make the tapered bricks in two pieces (front and back) with the brick laying flat on the saw and then sandwich them together to match the thickness of the rest of your arch..

    Again, there are probably better ways of doing it, but I would try to reduce the gaps in the inner arch.

    Regards,
    AT

    Leave a comment:


  • Jimney
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    Could you not just space out all the bricks by 1/16-1/8 of an inch?

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  • Bacterium
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    Arches..... WFO oven oracles I ask for your help (yes Brickie I've moved you into that category in my mind now)

    Just a bit puzzled on what to do. I've dry laid the arch (except for first couple) Do I cut a wedge piece to fill the gap in centre (refer pic of arch centre gap)?
    or
    Do I cut 2 wedge pieces and put them further back down (refer pic of arch side gaps)?

    My overall intent wasn't to angle cut each brick in the arch to get a perfect fit.....I don't feel overly confident or that skilled

    help...

    Leave a comment:


  • Bacterium
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    AT like the keystone. Sure you've use half thickness for that but I can see now how it could be used to bring in the last few or maybe even correct if the "teardrop" or "map of Tassie"
    comes into play.

    ....."map of Tassie" that's Aussie slang for the shape of Tasmania .......its an island down south of us with a particular shape..... It's heavily forested
    Last edited by Bacterium; 03-25-2013, 11:02 PM. Reason: clarified saying.....but now digging a hole

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  • ATK406
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    Originally posted by Bacterium View Post
    AT I'm surprised its not used more often as it has the convenience of taking it in and out to clean up mortar etc. When do you tend to need to switch to half thickness bricks?
    Yes, good point. I only used mine for 1 course so I did not take advantage of that fact. I switched to a half thickness to size the opening on my dome to match the plug I was planning to use for my keystone. In the end I ended up with a plug that was about 9" in dia. If I had used a full brick my plug would have been only about 6.5" around which would have been fine except I wanted inscribe something on the inside face of my plug (see below). None of this is relevant to most builders who are working toward a more conventional course thickness and final keystone size.

    AT

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  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    Originally posted by Bacterium View Post

    Stonecutter, yes Aussie wine in the 70s was typically known as cheap plonk, nowadays its up there against the French. I think its great when you find a bargain like that. Had some from the Nappa which I liked. What's the closest wine region to you?
    ?
    I'll say.... that wine was great, I wish we could still get it. I was told we only made up 2% of their export total and there was a larger demand close by. Oh well......

    The closest wine region is here - Yadkin Valley AVA - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    I had to look it up, and I have never tried anything from there. I've had wine from the New England and upstate New York, but nothing as good as Napa or McLaren Vale. Mainly because the reds don't have the time to develop the sugars in the grapes, because of the cold. But oh, man....the ice wines and Rieslings from Upstate NY and Canada were pretty awesome.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bacterium
    replied
    Re: Bacterium's 2nd build

    Jimney, first oven did surprisingly well no real cracking inside. The only real cracks were on the outer render which was only minor. Surprising how well it performed even thought it lacked a lot of ideas now utilised now. Pressed Red brick on first one ( refer thread on rectum roarer) this time around I'm using fire brick seconds. Bit of history is my brother got them from a house demo from an old friends house. It turns out some (maybe all) came from a brick maker who my dad was mates with a few of the family. They perform well in my brothers oven and are a unique thing.

    Stonecutter, yes Aussie wine in the 70s was typically known as cheap plonk, nowadays its up there against the French. I think its great when you find a bargain like that. Had some from the Nappa which I liked. What's the closest wine region to you?

    AT I'm surprised its not used more often as it has the convenience of taking it in and out to clean up mortar etc. When do you tend to need to switch to half thickness bricks?

    Leave a comment:

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