new build in werribee

[brickie in oz]

Re: new build in werribee

1x Chimney 77806 8 in. x 48 in. Superpro Factory-Built Chimney Length-304-alloy Inner And Outer Walls

Seems a lot of trouble to go through to buy a 48" flue section when they sell a standard 36" sections here in Oz off the shelf?

Maybe Im missing something?

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

Seems a lot of trouble to go through to buy a 48" flue section when they sell a standard 36" sections here in Oz off the shelf?

Maybe Im missing something?

HI Allan

Yes you have. but I do not think I have never described the reason or challenge.

I have shade sails very close to flue and they are cream [very bad choice in hindsight]. Based on calculations a 900 mm flue length will sit below the sail staining it with smoke possibly ash.

I needed to get the flue above the sail by 600mm and didn't want to do it in 2 lengths. getting 2 lengths with plate and cap was going to cost at least $450. Getting 1500mm single length SS fabricated without cap was going to cost $700.

Importing Selkirk Duratech or metal best from the US was going to cost $360 - 550 + 400 delivery + exchange rate costs.

I stumbled on Fishpond.com.au having Selkirk superpro flue system for 500. It is double walled insulated SS with twist lock fit like Russell and DEnnis used and for $500AUD delivered a very reasonable buy. assuming there aren't any catches but according to the email response from Fishpond there aren't any $500.95 is what it will cost me. A no Brainer. Does that clear it up?

As Dave pointed out I haven't compromised yet so why start now. after all I did use the best brick in the end didn't I

But I have layed the foundation for anyone in Aus that find Russell option better looking when the flue is not being covered then fishpond seems to be a good option.

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

Well weekend rained the whole time. So i decided to work out landing. Have decided to go around the inner arch and to flare it. Why? Just looks better... I'm going to pack some fire blanket between the inner arch and the landing arch and will then seal with either sealant or some fire cement mix to finish it off.

The front arch form will be lower than the rear by 2.5" and wider by the same. I will flare the vent area wider at bottom narrowing to the flue left right front back, this is something I have discussed with Doug.

Went to bunnies and got some ply for forms and have marked these out.

I see this a very simple way of doing a thermal break and opening the oven to avoid the tunnel look. Does add complexity though. But cuts here only on the front brick.

I will be doing a decorative arch around 80mm deep with some house bricks I still have, with white cement.

I have someone to thank for assistance on the flared landing and he knows who he is. Thx

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

hi

Well I had a long weekend thanks to an RDO, however didn't get as much done as other things got in the way. Costing 2 of those days...Cricket didn't help.... Sorted out my problem I couldn't figure out in raising the landing too minimize the thickness of the Granite. Thanks John for pics the answer was there all the time. Wasted Friday afternoon trying to work it out.

So decided to work on the entry landing area so I can order the Granite landing. Took a series of photos showing the steps.

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

Next steps

Decided to put some calsil in the SS tube I'm using for the Thermal Break. Had it handy, couldn't see why I shouldn't stick it down there

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

Now every thing is now cemented in place except the start of the arch bricks they are just sitting there. Decided to use some thin bed Hebel adhesive to position these.

So I will cut out a template for the Granite. When that arrives I will cut down some 75 mm firebricks into splits so that the granite keeps the same height as the heart and bed it in place with thin bed adhesive.

Will lay the first course of the vent arch then work the rest out then.

I have cut out the arch templates but need to make some minor adjustments.

[david s]

Re: new build in werribee

I don't know that your thick stainless tube will be preventing too much heat from transferring to the outer parts of the oven. Stainless is around 10 x more conductive than brick and your tube has pretty thick walls. having four sides will not allow it to operate as an expansion joint either. I'll be interested to hear how you think it performs.

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

David

Thanks for the information and concern. I think I have it all covered, and don't feel it will be an issue. If you check out all the photos you will notice that the installation of the tube, sits on calsil board, which then runs up the front of the SS to 25mm from the top. Look at the photos.

The granite landing will meet the SS [so its all level after I cut some firebrick splits] so only 22mm of Granite will be in actual contact with the SS.

Besides it is more for looks as I like the separation that Russell and others have done using the SS Tube.

[david s]

Re: new build in werribee

Ok, that should work.

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

thanks again nice to get comments of concern. BTW I also stuffed the tube with calsil now that was fun not sure what that will do if anything but why not I had some left over. So other than the tube it is pretty much 50mm of calsil.

[david s]

Re: new build in werribee

"The front arch form will be lower than the rear by 2.5" and wider by the same. "

Colin,
This may make the fitting of your oven door awkward, especially when it's hot. You might have to go for a two piece door like TS.
Dave

[deejayoh]

Re: new build in werribee

I don't know that your thick stainless tube will be preventing too much heat from transferring to the outer parts of the oven. Stainless is around 10 x more conductive than brick and your tube has pretty thick walls.

10x the conductivity with 2% of the mass = a lot less conductivity.

I have a heat break like this, works great.

[david s]

Re: new build in werribee

10x the conductivity with 2% of the mass = a lot less conductivity.

I have a heat break like this, works great.

That's good to hear. I think some stainless in this area is a good solution, but my point was that it needs to be thin. If yours is only 2% of the mass of the same volume of firebrick then yours must be extremely thin. Looking at Colin's photo the section appears to be a 2" x1" (25x50 mm with a wall thickness of around 2.0mm) which weighs just over 2 kgs/m. The same volume of dense firebrick weighs 4.6 Kgs. So you have around 50% of the mass not 2%. Really the only stainless bit you need is the bit on top and a little down the sides. Reducing the amount of stainless exposed to the bricks on the sides and the bottom would be preferable. With a wall thickness of 0.5 mm and say40% of the section cut away, the mass could be reduced to an eighth of what you presently have. Another job for the angle grinder perhaps?

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

David

I hear what you are saying, I guess we will have to wait and see. The interesting thing is I can remove it and replace it should it be a problem. I just don't see that happening surrounded by calsil on the outside.

Dennis, Russell both report theirs works a treat so here's what I will do. Once the thing is fired up to pizza temp and the oven clears I will post the differential both sides of the stainless.

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: new build in werribee

Colin,

My outside arch is abt 1" smaller than vent arch and say 2.5" (1cm) larger than my inner arch. So there is a lip on the outside arch. You just need to make sure your door seals on the inner arch but has clearance to pull straight out on the outer arch. So far no issues on removing the door. Just give yourself good clearance tolerance on the outer arch.