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  • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

    Originally posted by Wambat View Post
    I made a Perlite door. Sorry I don't have any complete images.. I'll take some tomorrow.. but you can see it here on the left .... and a pix while was building it... metal mold, perlite 5:1 and resistant fibre .. it does need a hard coating of something over the outside .. just haven't decided what yet.
    I'm very interested in this Wambat. One thing that concerns me is the metal transferring heat from the oven out the door. That looks like a great plan. I wonder how the portland cement will hold up to the door heat too. Earlier it was mentioned that when under the brick floor, but there is no brick in this case. I was considering doing 3 perlite, 1 red clay, one lime and 1/2 silicate like I did on the floor pour. Also a 1/4 inch steel plate facing the fire but only a thick sheet metal surrounding the pour. If I put lots of deck screws into the wooden outside part, pour the refractory mix around the deck screws...but how to carry the 1/4" steel...

    Its a pickle thats certain. I'd really like to see more pics of what you're doing, very interesting!

    Comment


    • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

      Originally posted by Wambat View Post
      I made a Perlite door. Sorry I don't have any complete images.. I'll take some tomorrow.. but you can see it here on the left .... and a pix while was building it... metal mold, perlite 5:1 and resistant fibre .. it does need a hard coating of something over the outside .. just haven't decided what yet.
      I'm very interested in this Wambat. One thing that concerns me is the metal transferring heat from the oven out the door. That looks like a great plan. I wonder how the portland cement will hold up to the door heat too. Earlier it was mentioned that when under the brick floor, but there is no brick in this case. I was considering doing 3 perlite, 1 red clay, one lime and 1/2 silicate like I did on the floor pour. Also a 1/4 inch steel plate facing the fire but only a thick sheet metal surrounding the pour. If I put lots of deck screws into the wooden outside part, pour the refractory mix around the deck screws...but how to carry the 1/4" steel...

      Its a pickle thats certain. I'd really like to see more pics of what you're doing, very interesting!


      ------------------

      Very enthusiastic about the progress today. The tie in between the dome and the entranceway walls is going well.

      Not just butting the dome brick to the side of the arch but putting it partially over the top of the arch. The arch by the door carries the chimney but that only takes up 2" of the 4". So, the arch will also carry the dome in that location.

      Also the outer, longer arch is done and its longer and more graceful than the earlier arches and runs almost 3'.

      That and we have 2 more courses in excepting the now very difficult compound cuts tying the dome into the walls. That will hopefully be done tomorrow.

      Measured today and the 54" opening at the base is now reduced to 44" at its current, higher location. There is a 25" total height of the dome and we're now at 13.5" so better than half way.
      Last edited by Lancer; 03-03-2014, 04:38 AM.

      Comment


      • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

        Originally posted by Lancer View Post
        I'm very interested in this Wambat. One thing that concerns me is the metal transferring heat from the oven out the door. That looks like a great plan. I wonder how the portland cement will hold up to the door heat too. Earlier it was mentioned that when under the brick floor, but there is no brick in this case. I was considering doing 3 perlite, 1 red clay, one lime and 1/2 silicate like I did on the floor pour. Also a 1/4 inch steel plate facing the fire but only a thick sheet metal surrounding the pour. If I put lots of deck screws into the wooden outside part, pour the refractory mix around the deck screws...but how to carry the 1/4" steel...

        Its a pickle thats certain. I'd really like to see more pics of what you're doing, very interesting!
        Kumasta Pare...
        Yes.. I want to play with other mixtures.. Thats why I built the metal form .. So I can reuse it. The curent perlite mixture, even with 2 layers of fibre matting is a bit heavy, about 40mm thick. I embedded a flat steel handle in the outside and that stuck in really well.
        Best part is, It really holds the heat in .. I cooked at 220c last night and the oven was still at 184 this morning. I got a real smooth finish on the oven side by laying the mold on plastic and vibrating it lots!
        I want to put that fibreglass rope around the seal, but even without it, I got a facefull of steam when cooking some bread the other day.

        Comment


        • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

          G'day gentlemen
          I'd just like to point out at this time one thing. All the types of doors , wood, cement/pearlite, metal screwed into wood etc etc have one thing in common as Davids pointed out .....they are designed to operate under the 300 C mark. The Baking Zone.
          Once you realize that it can survive at this temps, I think you find that weight will become important. My own has dropped has dropped roughly a third in weight from MK 1 to mark 11 and I recon with a bit of tweaking I could drop another third and still do the job.
          Regards dave
          Measure twice
          Cut once
          Fit in position with largest hammer

          My Build
          http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f51/...ild-14444.html
          My Door
          http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...ock-17190.html

          Comment


          • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

            Originally posted by Wambat View Post
            Kumasta Pare...
            Yes.. I want to play with other mixtures.. Thats why I built the metal form .. So I can reuse it. The curent perlite mixture, even with 2 layers of fibre matting is a bit heavy, about 40mm thick. I embedded a flat steel handle in the outside and that stuck in really well.
            Best part is, It really holds the heat in .. I cooked at 220c last night and the oven was still at 184 this morning. I got a real smooth finish on the oven side by laying the mold on plastic and vibrating it lots!
            I want to put that fibreglass rope around the seal, but even without it, I got a facefull of steam when cooking some bread the other day.
            Well that's great Wambat. I wonder if a built a form out of steel with the thick part towards the fire if I had a plug at the top and just poured perlite in until full...

            It would hold the weight down to just slightly more than the weight of the steel. Could then try to epoxy on a decorative wood face or...there are some excellent metal workers here, could do some scroll work.

            Comment


            • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

              Originally posted by cobblerdave View Post
              G'day gentlemen
              I'd just like to point out at this time one thing. All the types of doors , wood, cement/pearlite, metal screwed into wood etc etc have one thing in common as Davids pointed out .....they are designed to operate under the 300 C mark. The Baking Zone.
              Once you realize that it can survive at this temps, I think you find that weight will become important. My own has dropped has dropped roughly a third in weight from MK 1 to mark 11 and I recon with a bit of tweaking I could drop another third and still do the job.
              Regards dave
              I think a steel door filled with perlite could go as hot as the oven, what do you think amigo?

              Here's some more pics of the work up to last Friday in no particular order.

              Musical accompaniment to creative oven thinking & viewing.

              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXC9tuumjiA <-----

              I just like the elegance of the Roman arch. If I knew then what I know now there would be more of these around here.



              Just a pic...



              Last edited by Lancer; 03-03-2014, 11:11 PM.

              Comment


              • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

                I piled up 15 3/4" of stuff to bring this piece of ply into the shape of the arch at its base to get a feel for it and to explain to Sho the form I wanted built.



                He did an excellent and quick build of the form.



                Then he put some bricks on top.

                Last edited by Lancer; 03-03-2014, 09:26 PM.

                Comment


                • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

                  The chimney space is 4" wide. I'm thinking of making it 16" long, what do you guys think? Good size? Longer or shorter?



                  Pumice mortared in at the weak point. This is the wall we were discussing Cobbler. Two arches tie into the near part and the last arch stretches across the wide part, almost 3'. Every arch ties into a reinforced section of this little wall and then there's the pumice behind that.



                  Another pic of that flakey pile of stuff. Btw going to put a wire brush in the drill and clean up the brick when done.

                  Last edited by Lancer; 03-03-2014, 10:50 PM.

                  Comment


                  • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

                    I like the shape of the opening, it looks like a Cantenary arch.
                    Old World Stone & Garden

                    Current WFO build - Dry Stone Base & Gothic Vault

                    When we build, let us think that we build for ever.
                    John Ruskin

                    Comment


                    • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

                      The outermost arch looks more segmental. Its done now just have to post the pics. Get to that another day. :zzz:

                      Comment


                      • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

                        Originally posted by Lancer View Post
                        I think a steel door filled with perlite could go as hot as the oven, what do you think amigo?

                        Here's some more pics of the work up to last Friday in no particular order.

                        Musical accompaniment to creative oven thinking & viewing.

                        Canon in D (Classical guitar) by Johann Pachelbel - YouTube <-----

                        I just like the elegance of the Roman arch. If I knew then what I know now there would be more of these around here.



                        Just a pic...




                        G'day Lancer
                        It all comes down to that one eternal question... How to isolate the back from front really. Even with wooden doors you have to isolate the wood from the hot revel, Davids has mentioned before old school way of stuffing the edges with wet newspaper, a disposable seal in a way.
                        My own is carved from airated cement block it works well and is locally available cheaply which ticks the boxes for me. I'll be the first to admitt thought they are soft and chip easy so they will not suit everyone. Follow the link at the bottom, there's a link as well to a wooden door.
                        I'm pretty interested in Greenmans wood pearlite and aluminium one. Avaliable materials, light, robust, be worthwhile investigating for your needs.
                        Progress is great! Pass on my regards to Sho...tell him I love his work.... But he has to listen to the builder
                        Regards dave
                        Measure twice
                        Cut once
                        Fit in position with largest hammer

                        My Build
                        http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f51/...ild-14444.html
                        My Door
                        http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f28/...ock-17190.html

                        Comment


                        • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

                          Yeah, good points Cobbler. I like the perlite idea as well and am eager to see how his door comes out. I wonder if double doors in each location might help. Anyway, I have to think about the morning, Sho will be back and there are some very difficult cuts need making. So glad I have him amigo, he has such a sure eye. Hope to get some pics up tonight but need to relax first...

                          What a day. Drove into Tagbilaran and back today. The roads here are an insane, pray for your life chaotic mess. I love this place as long as I'm not driving.

                          Comment


                          • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

                            Need get them up, get some insights from you guys.

                            Look at the direction the dome bricks are going and the 2" top of the arch location that will receive them, or part of each course. I've seen it where the dome bricks are mortared onto the inner face of the arch and decided I wanted that load carried by the arch itself. That might be the way you guys do this, I just don't know.

                            The chimney brick will reach across the between the 2 inner arches opening and 2" of the 8" brick will sit on either side. That leaves a 4" chimney opening that I intend to have 16" wide. So the chimney bricks will span the 4" gap. As you guys know, the arch is 4" wide, so that leaves me 2" to set the dome brick on.



                            The 2" wide brick being set to receive the chimney brick.



                            These aren't the actual bricks that will span the gap, they're dome bricks just set there to show the plan. The full bricks will span the gap and form 2 sides of the chimney. This is my interpretation of a brilliant idea Brickie had to make the chimney out of brick. It has to curve back on top of the oven dome and go up through the point atop the onion and Brickie hit on the brick plan, genius. :b:

                            These non-actual bricks are 16" apart. So, that would be the chimney at this location. I have no idea if that's a good size but none of you guys has said anything yet so it can't be too bad.

                            You can see the slot intended to carry the dome. The next course of the dome ties into this slot and begins the super tricky cuts.

                            Can also see Sho starting to set the last of the arches, the long one...pics coming up! First, from this view you can see how we intend to span the distance from oven to onion. In that space I hope to get 2 long slim bread ovens for baguette bread and a pizza warming spot or two, but that's another day. Got murky plans at this point.

                            Last edited by Lancer; 03-05-2014, 03:32 AM.

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                            • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

                              Not to get ahead of myself here's Sho building the form for the long arch.



                              Just needs legs and its sexy. You can see where this segmental arch carries the weight of what is to come to the 12" of interwoven bricks to either side. Those 12" of bricks will be buttressed by the onion dome. Its all good.



                              Sho contemplates legs.

                              Last edited by Lancer; 03-05-2014, 03:37 AM.

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                              • Re: Lancer's Philippine Build, Close to Australia Anyhoo...

                                Like pants, one brick at a time.



                                Can't wait until the form is pulled out tomorrow. So far to my eye this is the most graceful arch of the three.

                                Last edited by Lancer; 03-05-2014, 03:16 AM.

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