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George,
Your brick work looks excellent thus far. The I tool looks to be working just fine. Unless you are a professional in the masonry trade, you figure it out as you go. The difference is we think about it about 10x more than people who do it all the time, and make twice as many mistakes. But almost all of us end up with an oven that meets our needs and we are proud of. The brick dust will wash off your clunker- no worries. Looks great!!
Eric
The cheap abrasive blade wore out quickly and took forever to cut so I got a real blade for the job. ...
So I spent a couple of hours just cutting bricks in my driveway next to my clunker....
I'm progressing in a painfully slow pace. I wish I had a couple of free days completely to myself so I can focus my attention on this project.
I'm basically ready to erect the dome. I decided not to use a soldier course but instead lay two courses straight up vertically.
Here is a pic of a rather crude indispensible tool that I put together last night. The hinge point revolves 3" around the center axis. The arm length gets reset at the top of the second course and from that point it will trace a slightly smaller arc (15.5" vs 17"), resulting in a lower dome height of about 15.5". Thickness of the plywood base has been account for. Floor radius is exactly 17".
That's great the compound saw worked out with the spray bottle. Are you going to use that for all the brick cutting (really asking if you plan on buying/using a wet-tile saw).
If you're going to keep trying to use the compound saw, remember that we soak the bricks before mortaring so you could pre-soak them BEFORE you even cut them and that should really cut down on the dust (and have them plenty wet for mortar).
Not much progress today except for trimming the brick ends. I bought a cheap 10" masonary cut-off blade and used it on my old 10" compound miter saw to cut the bricks. It seemed to work well using a water spray bottle.
Dino, no, the stucco'd enclosure will be on its own. The oven will not be 'part' of the corner there. I just hope I have enough room back there to shape the dome.
Here's what I did this morning.
After chopping the excess I plan on laying the 4.5" high soldier course on top of the floor.
I really like the dome on pillers look. Will it be "stucco'd" into the corner and look like a corner built-in on stand or will the the dome be it's own "dome" and not tied into the 2 corner walls?
Stand marked, and ready for 3" ceramic board.
I crumbled up remnants of the fiber board to use as leveler and filler. When crumbled, it turns into cottage cheese. But don't eat it.
Thanks for all the valuable information and ideas contained here, including much needed advice from all the great folks here, I finally started my WFO build a couple of weeks ago.
The 34" oven will be located in a nook just outside of the side door which leads into the kitchen. I will run a 6" stove pipe with spark arrestor well above the roof. Dome walls will be built using bricks cut down to 3" in thickness (as explained in another thread).
Also, as mentioned in detail in another thread as to the reasons why, the free-standing sonotubed stand simply sits unanchored (except for the pins) over a tiled slab.
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