My Old Kentucky Dome

[Ken524]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Looks good. I'm going to try the same thing in pouring my landing. I was going to find some coloring compound and just leave the concrete exposed.

Dick,

I think that's a really good idea and will look nice. The colored concrete was on my short list of options (until the boss and I visited the tile store ).

Can't wait to see it complete!

Me too! I think the winter break was a good way for me to take a breather and get a second wind. I'm pretty sure my insulation board problems are behind me and I have a full head of steam again.

[Ken524]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

That was pretty clever using the rope. Looks great!

Thanks Les. I'll let you know tomorrow if the rope was clever or a big mistake!

[thebadger]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Ken,

Looks good. I'm going to try the same thing in pouring my landing. I was going to find some coloring compound and just leave the concrete exposed.
I was going to build a house like yours but decided to try the igloo for cost reasons. I guess I can always build a house later

Can't wait to see it complete!

Dick

[Les]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

That was pretty clever using the rope. Looks great!

Les...

[Ken524]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Sounds like you have a bigger plan to weather protect the oven.

Just tile and stucco. No concrete will be exposed.

[gjbingham]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Nice pour Ken. I think you're pretty safe with that pour on top of the previous. Sounds like you have a bigger plan to weather protect the oven. Are you planning a roof structure?

[Ken524]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Today we mixed and poured the concrete to raise the landing to the oven opening. Took (3) 80lb bags of Quikrete. Forms held in place by a tightly tied rope.

I left about 1/2" of space so the porcelain tile would be even with the oven floor.



I was really lazy. No rebar was added, nothing to tie the new layer of concrete to the existing layer. We just cleaned it off and poured.

It will all be sealed from the elements. I don't think 240lbs of concrete is going to move.

[Barberque boy]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Both products come in 1/4 and 1/2 inch. In horizontal application ie. floors and counter tops I always thinset and nail/screw to insure no movement. Here in the NW Hardi siding is very popular and has replaced the Louisiana Pacific fiasco of mold and mildew.

[Barberque boy]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Re: Durarock and Hardi board. Ive used them both in tile applications. And a lot of it will come down to the installers preference. Durarock and Wonder board are basically fiberglass mesh and a lite concrete. The Hardi board is a cement and almost a paper like fiber. It is much stiffer and more dense than Durarock. Ive seen them both immersed in water for well over a month and still hold their form. I don't know if you would go terribly wrong on either selection

[asudavew]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Isn't Hardiebacker board about a quarter of an inch and meant to place on walls for tiling?

And I think Durorock is meant for counter tops, etc.
I believe it is about a half inch thick. It can also be screwed down to wood floors to tile on top of. It adds support.

off to fire up the old WFO.....!

[Ken524]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

I really like George's question (above) about Durock, Hardiebacker, etc. I'm wondering the same thing and I suspect others have (or will have) the same question. I didn't want this great subject lost inside this thread so I started a new thread for it here:

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f9/c...html#post30077

[gjbingham]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Drifting away from the topic a bit...

Can anybody elaborate on the differences between Durock, Hardiboard and several other of the brands that are commonly used? They all seem the same to me.

Thanks (sorry Ken)

[vincent]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

It looks great Ken. As far as the backer board goes; I think that the 1/2 inch would be the best option. i've always used it for a wall application. Since it is going to be attached to steel studs screws will have to be used. This means that the head will have to be slightly counter sunk and the 1/2 has enough thickness. It will also result in a more rigid structure. To increase the strengh of the backer board tape and mud any seams from board to board. Use fiberglass mesh tape (just the type for sheetrock) and set it with thinset mortar. One last thing. Durock is an excellent product. You can cut it, nail it and screw it and it stays together. I was sold a product once that was actually just a fine graveled cement between two layers of nylon mesh. the edges crumbled when i cut it and nails had a tendency to partially pulverise the area around the nail head. I'd avoid it.

Vincent

[Frances]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

EaRtHqUaKe PROOF!

That's the spirit - don't check the house for damage, but by gosh, the oven's still standing!!!

[Barberque boy]

Re: My Old Kentucky Dome

Ken, 1/4" hardi board is designed for horizontal application and 1/2" can be used for either horizontal or vertical. In vertical application the 1/2" is treated just like sheet rock on 16" centers. I've enjoyed following your pictorial progress.