Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
EaRtHqUaKe PROOF!
We awake this morning to quite a shake. The whole house was rattling along with the 5.3 quake that hit the central US this morning. I'm glad to report that there doesn't appear to be any damage to the oven.
I got out early this morning and finished up the vermiculite insulation. Glad that's done!
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Originally posted by Frances View PostOne question: Why not just leave the foam forms in place? Shouldn't hurt and no one's going to see inside the enclosure anyway.
I actually considered that. Unless there is a catastrophic failure somewhere, the foam won't ever see any real heat above ambient. If they do, I'll have bigger problems to deal with .
I may just secure them with a bit more duct tape or aluminum tape and leave them be. Right now, some of the duct tape is having a hard time staying "stuck". Most of the boards are being supported by the steel studs. Leaving them in is certainly an option.
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Hey Ken! I'll bet it does feel good to be back in business!
One question: Why not just leave the foam forms in place? Shouldn't hurt and no one's going to see inside the enclosure anyway.
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
I think we have 3/8th and 1/2 inch backer board here. I was just reading the signs today. Seems like the 1/2 inch is for laying tiles on walls. The 3/8th for tiles on flat surfaces. I didn't inquire so I'm not 100% sure on that. To be safe, the 1/2 inch might be a better choice at 2 bucks more per board.
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
I was able to get back to work today (hooray!). I'm happy to report that my soggy, squishy insulation board has dried out and is hard as a rock <sigh of relief>.
Today was insulation day. I bought some foam board from Office Depot and set it up around the oven. I inserted some plastic coated hardware cloth for additional support (why do they call it hardware cloth? )
I then mixed and poured 4 batches of vermiculite/portland cement. 5 buckets of vermic + 3/4 bucket of portland. I used a large plastic garbage can to mix it in. I think I'm about half done. I'll try to finish tomorrow.
The BIG question is when to pull the foam forms. I can't help but comment (like dozens of others) about how weird this stuff is and I wonder if it will hold it's shape or crumble when I pull the forms. I'll definitely pull the forms after I have some Hardibacker in place. If it all disintegrates, I'll just add loose-fill vermic.
Another question for you pros: Home Depot has both 1/4" and 1/2" Hardibacker. Is 1/4" adequate or do I need the 1/2"? Final finish will be stucco over the Hardibacker.
Thanks gang! If feels WONDERFUL to be in the WFO business again!
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Mmmm, burning plastic! Blow the fumes my way Ken!
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Originally posted by biondoli View PostKen, why not aluminum foil so just in case some heat will escape will not burn the plastic film...
Ken
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
I haven't had a chance to do any more work yet. But when I pour my concrete up against the insulation board, I plan on using some Saran wrap to keep the concrete and board separate.
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Originally posted by biondoli View Postyour post #230
Hi Ken, what is the size of your opening vent? I like the way you modeled it...thinking to copy it, happy with that kind of transition?...thanks
I'm out of town for the next several days so I can't measure. You can probably estimate fairly closely by counting bricks. I think the top of the opening is around 12 inches wide. The width is exactly a half brick. The vent box above it then tapers it down to an 8" square for the Duratech mount.
I didn't worry too much about measurements when building it. I just did it so it "looked" right . Works great.
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Originally posted by dbhansen View PostKen, just curious, how do you intend to "attach" this concrete to the hearth? Just an acid wash, or something more mechanical?
I think an acid wash would be enough. There shouldn't be much stress on this part and it will be sealed from moisture.
Someone posted that they drilled holes in the hearth and dropped short pieces of rebar in. That seems like a good idea.
Another thought I have is to drill several small holes in the foundation and screw in some TapCon concrete screws, leaving them sticking up about an inch. Sort of like mini rebar. I think they would keep the landing from shifting if the new concrete doesn't adhere to the hearth.
If you had to do it over again, would you pour this concrete at the same time as your hearth, or add some rebar sticking up?
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
The idea (borrowed from others, of course) is to try to grab as much smoke leaving the oven and give it an easy way to flow up to the chimney. I made some 45deg cuts on the outer vent arch bricks. The next set of arch bricks will have similar cuts continuing the 45deg angle up to the top of the vent
Hi Ken, what is the size of your opening vent? I like the way you modeled it...thinking to copy it, happy with that kind of transition?...thanks
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Originally posted by Ken524 View Post...when I pour my concrete up against the insulation board...
Daren
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Dick,
I haven't had a chance to do any more work yet. But when I pour my concrete up against the insulation board, I plan on using some Saran wrap to keep the concrete and board separate. Simple and easy.
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Re: My Old Kentucky Dome
Ken,
I've started my oven (and my thread)...
What did you finally decide to use to coat your board with to prevent water issues. I got the Iso board and want to pour concrete around it (halfway up) then colored concrete the rest of the way and over the top (hope that makes sense). Basically I'll pour concrete all around my hearth to make it level with thefire brick entrance. I didn't want the board to suck out all of the water so I wanted to put something on it like a sealer.
Let me know.
Thanks
Dick
thebadger
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