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Will you follow the same knot all the way to the end, or does it change each layer. My thinking says it stays the same.
My knot will shift a bit with each course because my dome isn't a perfect arc. It's more of a squished ellipse thingie (sorry for the advanced geometry jargon).
If the dome is a perfect arc of a circle and the string is attached at the exact elevation that the arc begins, then the knot would not move.
The inner entry arch was mortared in place today. I pulled the form out after it set for 45 minutes so I could clean the underside of the arch. Since the bricks were cut to shape, I figured it should be pretty safe to stand freely while setting (physics and all that) I took a few extra photos for those interested in how it's placed. The full size 800x600 pics are in the Photo Gallery and show more detail.
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Also, I took a picture of my incredibly high tech, patent pending, cutting edge String Alignment System (SAS).
The string is attached to the center point of the oven. At the beginning of each course I tie a knot in the string to show where the outer edge of the brick should be. When each brick is aligned with the string, I'm assured the oven stays (fairly) round. I'm using mason's string because it doesn't stretch. Stretching string would be a really bad thing for a SAS.
Dave, one can see the thought process going on here. It appears that you have taken mental notes to assure your dome bricks don't align. So clean. I agree, show the string set up, excellant idea.
I'm using a string tied to an eye screw in a 2x4 post in the center of the floor to assure the bricks in each course maintain the correct radius. I tie a knot in the string at the position the inner face should be in each course. It's simple and works well.
Great idea Ken.
I shall do the same.
Man, it's really looking good.
I can see you are really taking your time, and doing excellent work.
Third course is complete. This course went very smoothly. Slope of the bricks is more pronounced, but can still be laid by hand with no forms.
I'm using a string tied to an eye screw in a 2x4 post in the center of the floor to assure the bricks in each course maintain the correct radius. I tie a knot in the string at the position the inner face should be in each course. It's simple and works well.
Next step will be to cut the fourth course bricks and mortar in a few of the lower arch bricks to begin the transition.
Last edited by Ken524; 09-24-2007, 01:29 PM.
Reason: Formatting of photos
I didn't see any pics of your soldier course on your Picasa page.
Yea I haven't taken any yet. I'm only a quarter of the way through. I'm beginning to realize that cutting the bricks to fit may be more tedious up front, but it makes for smooth sailing when its time to lay the bricks. I was able to fly through my floor bricks, which were cut to fit, in about an hour. It took over that amount of time to just get a 1/4 circle of soldier bricks done....oh and nearly a 1/3 bag of mortar.
Did you find that you used a LOT of mortar for your soldier course? ...I'm averaging about 1/2 inch for the soldiers
Ron,
I cut my soldier bricks to fit, so I didn't see any 1/2" joints. I did have a few 1/4" joints where I screwed up here and there. Overall, I did use quite a bit of mortar for the soldier course. The face of the bricks have a lot of surface area, I think that's what consumed the mortar.
The higher courses are definitely using less and less. I didn't see any pics of your soldier course on your Picasa page.
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