Vesuvio 90 Replica Build

[Gulf]

Ok. I saw the term "mold" and it sent me out in to left field lol.

[Golfpro2301]

I tend to confuse people like that a lot. Am I on right track for arches. Seems like that is style I have noticed during research.

for small arch being used just for door seal I was thinking of making it 2.5” deep which would allow for front most arch to be 8-9”. I am assuming if mortared together during brick
laying and then again once all bricks laid it shouldnt really matter

next part is trying figure out template for some. Unsure of how high carry vertical walls before starting curvature to a 15” height

[Gulf]

For the only segmental (axe) arch that I've built, I used the same radius as the dome. You will find that the the "post" called risers are not all cut the same. They, as all the components of an arch, will be increasingly longer on each course in order to fit the inward curvature of the dome. Here is a link to one that I did. There are probably some better examples out there. Again, drawing out the full scale oven has helped me greatly in determining the placement of an arch. The side view of the arch can be included in the same drawing as also the front view of the arch. If you zoom in on the pic in post #31 you can see just about every reference point that is needed for the final design. In the center of that drawing, since I chose the same radius for the arch as the dome, you can see front view of the arch in the middle of the drawing. It is a little difficult to see in the pic but, the spring line is also on there drawing. The spring line is where the arch meets the risers. I will look for a better pic tonight.

[Golfpro2301]

Thanks. Your link helped a lot. That was a big unknown for me if I needed to cut that inner arch at curvature to match dome. I guess when I make my cardboard dome template I can use those trend lines to mark bricks as you did to cut correct curvature.

[Gulf]

The ID and OD of each brick of the arch are very important. A straight line drawn between each would be enough. I just threw that cardboard made from the curve in there just to make it a little more exact, Or in other words, showing out

EDIT: I may need to mention that all of the cuts made on that oven were made with an affordable 10" wet saw.

[Golfpro2301]

Outside of using more bricks is there downside to putting first row on floor vs outside. Since I am doing vertical walls to start it would be easier to start with full 9” and then curve to 15” dome height

[Gulf]

Outside of using more bricks is there downside to putting first row on floor vs outside

Dome on top of floor. Dome outside of floor. Either works as long as both designs sit on top of the insulation imo.

Since I am doing vertical walls to start it would be easier to start with full 9” and then curve to 15” dome height

That may be a problem for the dome on what space that you have on the stand. On a hemispherical dome the outward and downward pressure is spread evenly around and down to the floor. Vertical walls require buttressing. A brick inner arch can be designed that way since it is buttressed by the dome. However, if the dome is also built that way without being buttressed.... ruh! roh!

[Golfpro2301]

Will the layer of mortar over everything not be enough support? I also have plenty of 1.5” flat bar
laying around I can wrap around and weld in place. I can anchor round bar into insulated concrete in voids where arch and dome meet. I can wrap bar around and weld to these

[Gulf]

Some have done the buttressing with steel. But, there should be a rigid insulation between the brick and the steel. It’s been a few years since I’ve seen it done on the forum. Maybe someone will chime in that remembers such a build thread.

[david s]

Outside of using more bricks is there downside to putting first row on floor vs outside. Since I am doing vertical walls to start it would be easier to start with full 9” and then curve to 15” dome height

Because of the outward thrust on the walls created by the low height dome coupled with the base of the dome being the point at which most cracking begins, a tall vertical joint for the first course is not advisable. Two rows of half bricks staggered is a stronger solution.

I think you will have difficulty anchoring into a relatively weak 5:1 vermicrete slab.

[david s]

Some have done the buttressing with steel. But, there should be a rigid insulation between the brick and the steel. It’s been a few years since I’ve seen it done on the forum. Maybe someone will chime in that remembers such a build thread.

Here is one discussion on the steel band solution. It is a common solution for Neapolitan ovens in Italy.

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...cks#post387373

Here's another
https://community.fornobravo.com/for...uild#post17578

[Golfpro2301]

Copy that on walls david. Ill cut brick in half and will actually angle top layer to start dome. I have a plan on metal banding and think will work well

I am driving down to Orlando tomorrow to get fireclay as that is only place that has it. Regarding sand do I need silica sand or will play sand/paver sand you can get at HD good enough?

picked up 160 firebricks today. Plan to layout floor and arches next week as a dry fit

[david s]

Basically any sand will do, but you don't want large grains. Best to go where bricklayers get their supplies, either a building or a landscape supplier and ask for bricklayers sand. I use silica sand and depending on the application sometimes sift it to remove anything larger than 0.5mm

The tendency for sand to turn into glass, particularly in the presence of fluxes, only occurs at temperatures about double that to which we fire. So, a problem in building kilns but not ovens.

[Golfpro2301]

Was able to lay some bricks down where arches need to go to copy dimensions from casa 80 kit. Face on you can see back arch at 17” which gives roughly 1/2” catch for door which I am ok with. Problem is I feel like base of that arch is too far into the oven. The line where arrow is pointing is where it sits. Is this ok?

also because I am only going 48” the front corners of entry match up to exterior. I can prob 45* the sides to give about 1” for mortar

[david s]

Most designs have the flue gallery pushed somewhat into the floor circle. Yours looks ok to me and has the advantage of keeping the flue gallery pretty shallow which gives better access to the oven interior. It looks like your plan won't allow bringing the gallery any further out anyhow. An alternative would be to reduce the oven interior diameter. I
think a slightly bigger door rebate of 3/4" would be better as it would give you a little more wriggle room when making and fitting the door.