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Show us your Door Thread - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community

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  • deejayoh
    started a topic Show us your Door Thread

    Show us your Door Thread

    There are lots of questions about oven doors, but no official door thread. I thought it would be useful to consolidate a bunch of examples that showed different ways to build oven doors.

    I'll start it off!

    Door material:
    Face is HOT ROLL SHEET / PLATE 0.060" (16 GA) Hot Rolled STEEL
    Thermometer protector is HOT ROLL TUBE - SQUARE
    0.625" OD x 0.065" Wall A36 Hot Rolled Mild Steel Square Tube

    Insulation: Two inches of ceramic fiber blanket

    Handles: Gate handles purchased from Home Depot. I was cautioned about using metal but they don't seem to get hot.

    Cost: ~$55 if I don't count the welder. About $25 for the metal from Onlinemetals.com; $5 for the handles; $25 for the thermometer (from our hosts); Insulation was leftover from build

    Weight: 10 pounds

    How it's built: I cut the metal with a metal blade in a jigsaw. Outside plate was based on my entry arch form less 1/2 inch all the way around. The inside plate was based on my oven opening arch less 1/4" all the way around. I cut a 2" strip of steel to go around the outside and welded the whole thing together with a HF cheapy welder that I bought off of craigslist. The door was the first thing I ever welded - and it took a lot of grinding to get it smooth, but it came out pretty well. Took an afternoon to weld it.

    How does it work: Pretty well. My temperature ramp about 100 degrees loss a day from the oven; third day temps are in the 250-300 degree range. Thermometer reliably reads 50 degrees lower than the temp my IR thermometer shows for the inside of the oven.

    Favorite thing about the door: the weight.


    What would I do to improve my door design: I could have made it deeper. Making it 2 1/2 or 3 inches deep would have given more insulation and not cost any more or taken any more time. And I still might add some rope gasket around the door to get a better seal.

    EDIT: I finally added the gasket and let me say, it makes a HUGE difference in heat retention. I used a single strip of Lavalock felt gasket tape, and my oven is now hot a week after i have a fire. It's 600 degrees the next morning, Incredible difference!


    [ATTACH=CONFIG]n319955[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]n319956[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]n319957[/ATTACH]
    Last edited by deejayoh; 07-17-2013, 02:30 PM. Reason: Add Chipsters question!

  • JRPizza
    replied
    Here are the details of my door, which is also around 4" thick. The weight came in at 10lb 6oz.
    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...442#post393442

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Building a 4" thick door will give you a lot of insulation power but weight will be a factor. IMHO, Ceramic Blanket, Foamglass and ceramic blanket have roughly the same K value (thermal conductivity) so use the one that is the lightest in weight. SS has the lowest K value of carbon steel, aluminum so best metal choice but get as thin as possible and still be weldable.I can't tell from pic but it looks like the reveal is failry small, 1/2" or so. Some builders are using wood stove gaskets for tighter seals but I did not. Not sure a door thermometer gives a true internal temp. I use a laser gun.

    Leave a comment:


  • djginivisian
    replied
    Oven door design and material Choices:

    I'm ready to begin the door construction

    The back of the door will recess 4" into the oven opening.

    To insulate, I am weighing the pros and cons between CFB, Fireblanket, or Foam glass block.

    Also considering best gauge stainless to use, with strength, durability and weight being factors.

    Will likely have two spring door handles.

    Opting not to include a thermometer

    Does anyone care to weigh in with some facts & opinions?



    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • shanxk8
    replied
    Started on my permanent insulated door and have been slowly working away at it. I'm sure it will evolve over time, perhaps eventually get replaced.
    It still requires some finishing with rustic hardware, but it is more functional than a straight wood door to retain heat. It is 22G plain steel, bent, and attached with machine screws.

    Leave a comment:


  • DaveHI
    replied
    To report back -- It works well. Obviously more heat loss than a wooden door since steel has such high thermal conductivity, but I think I might make a second door out of hardwood to back it for when I'm trying to hold heat.

    It did start rusting here by the beach even with 3-4 coats of high temp clear spray paint on it. Cleaned it up and went to black paint.

    Leave a comment:


  • deejayoh
    replied
    Originally posted by madspeed View Post
    looks like that Etsy shop makes doors to order based on your specs. Good deal at $125 for those without handy skills, nice find
    Its a pretty good price, but for those who are interested in learning to weld - you can buy the same flux-core welder I got at harbor freight for ~$70 after the discount, get some mild grade steel, and go to town. I found the welder on Craigslist so I think I paid $60 for it + a welding mask and gloves.

    Leave a comment:


  • madspeed
    replied
    looks like that Etsy shop makes doors to order based on your specs. Good deal at $125 for those without handy skills, nice find

    Leave a comment:


  • DaveHI
    replied
    I made a mess on doors with my first oven in Hawaii. Built the oven and then tried to find someone to make me a metal/insulated door without much luck unless I wanted to spend $600 --nope. My own wood efforts with tile backer worked ok but they tended to fall over when I used them for draft doors and suddenly I had extra fuel.

    For my new nat gas oven, I found a guy on Etsy that makes door. Haven't tried it as I'm just now at the last ring/final keystone stage but it looks pretty cool. At least I can't burn it up!

    https://www.etsy.com/listing/2746997..._home_listings

    Leave a comment:


  • david s
    replied
    Thermometers in the door are subject to accidental damage and thermocouples will fail sooner or later. After you have used your oven a fair bit you rely less and less on temperature measurement. Providing my oven is pretty dry I usually use the time taken to fire the thing as a guide to temperature e.g.. one hour of flame for roasting or baking and one and a half to two for pizza. WFO's are also pretty forgiving in regards to temperature. When it starts to smell good it's usually good, If it's not cooked enough put it back in until it is. A cheap oven air temp thermometer placed inside the oven is excellent as is one of those thermometers you stick into the centre of a roast or bread loaf. IR thermometers are good but can give false readings because they are reading surface temperature. They're ok if used after the oven has been sitting unfired for a fair while.

    Leave a comment:


  • JRPizza
    replied
    Well, I'm afraid the ship has sailed on thermocouples, unless I want to do exploratory drilling into my almost completed dome. Colin, are you saying you mostly use the TC's and the door thermometer isn't as useful for you?

    Leave a comment:


  • oasiscdm
    replied
    Hi JR

    I have thermometer in door and 2 thermocouple insertion tubes on each side of my oven. one tube on each side is 10mm from the inside of the oven the other tube on each side is about 15mm from the outside of the firebrick.

    ​reason is I use either side to cook, I use the temps to determine my equalisation temperature. i use the half way point of the 2 temperatures to determine when I close the door shutting it 50c above the temperature i desire for cooking the following day. Seems to work really well.

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    JR,

    My door is without a thermometer. I installed TCs, in the the dome to measure heat saturation but I hardly ever use them now (maybe when I start baking bread it might be different). For the most part I just use my thermo gun to get a ball park temperature similar to what DJ says.

    Leave a comment:


  • deejayoh
    replied
    Mine is pretty reliably off by 50 degrees F to the low side. It's nice to know at a glance where the oven is, even if it is not 100% accurate.

    Leave a comment:


  • JRPizza
    replied
    For those that have build their doors with and without thermometers, what are your thoughts? Reading through this thread and the forum, there seems to be a pretty even split between with and without. I have read that air temperature is not the best indicator of how hot the oven is - do those without wish they had them, and are those with glad they have them in their doors?

    Leave a comment:

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