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  • Kvanbael
    replied
    No welding skills, so I tried to keep my insulated door simple:

    I already had the cut-to-order stainless steel front (4mm). I didn't want to add too much weight to it. For insulation, I used a 5" CalSil piece, left over from my oven floor. It's really easy to cut, drill and mill and surprisingly strong, actually. Sure it's brittle, but it requires quite some abuse before it breaks).

    Obviously, I don't want these white fibers near my food, so I wrapped the CalSil in a very thick aluminium foil that I cut from three large disposable serving platters. It can be cut and worked by hand, yet is hopefully a lot more durable than eg. regular tinfoil. Time will tell.

    Everything is held together with 4 stainless steel M10 bolts, which also hold the basic hardwood handles.
    The bolts don't get too hot, and I believe the oven's cool down curve has improved significantly (more data needed to confirm).

    More information in the pictures.
    Last edited by Kvanbael; 11-20-2021, 09:36 AM.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Vintage Pyrex lids (prior to 1998) were made from borosilicate, this is when the Bordon company took over Pyrex and started making glass lids with soda lime instead of borosilicate.. I found a vintage pyrex lid at a thrift shop for a few bucks.

    I just remember who made the window door, it was Mr. Chipster from about 2012.

    https://community.fornobravo.com/for...-for-oven-door
    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 11-01-2021, 04:42 PM.

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  • deejayoh
    replied
    Originally posted by Jubilado View Post
    Thanks for the comments.

    The fabricator gets the credit for the appearance. They do work for hospitals and food service - and it shows in how they surface the metal. This kind of work is affordable here in Mexico, especially if you can scrounge material laying around in their shop. The price would be crazy to hire out in the US.

    I can't image that my pot lid is borosilicate glass, as it cost all of $7. It's use would be limited to lower oven temperatures. We'll see how that goes.

    Rob
    Interesting on the lid. I was curious if one can purchase a borosilicate glass disc. Looks like you can get a 6" disc for about $50 at that AtoZ company

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  • Jubilado
    replied
    Thanks for the comments.

    The fabricator gets the credit for the appearance. They do work for hospitals and food service - and it shows in how they surface the metal. This kind of work is affordable here in Mexico, especially if you can scrounge material laying around in their shop. The price would be crazy to hire out in the US.

    I can't image that my pot lid is borosilicate glass, as it cost all of $7. It's use would be limited to lower oven temperatures. We'll see how that goes.

    Rob

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  • MarkJerling
    replied
    Originally posted by Jubilado View Post
    Here's a few photos of my stainless steel door. I can't take credit for the fabrication, but it is my design.

    4" of ceramic fiber remnants. 430 stainless sheet metal with heavier 304 for the main back.

    It has an insulated plug that I can remove for viewing or leave in to hold heat. I have been using a propane gas burner for curing my oven and I use this port for the gas pipe to pass through.

    There is another 7" glass pot lid that can be put into the the door to act as a window for baking.

    I will be gluing in a flat fiber gasket to seal against the inner arch. Also, there's a bit of tweaking to be done with the tabs that hold the window in. Otherwise, so far, so good - but I'm just in low temperature curing at this point.

    Rob
    Ooooh, that's very pretty! Nicely done.

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Haven't seen the pot lid in the door for several years. One of the WFO bakers had us all hunting for old pyrex after he made his door with one. I seem to remember that the old ones were make of borosilicate and could handle quite high temps. I still have one if any builders want it.

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  • Jubilado
    replied
    Here's a few photos of my stainless steel door. I can't take credit for the fabrication, but it is my design.

    4" of ceramic fiber remnants. 430 stainless sheet metal with heavier 304 for the main back.

    It has an insulated plug that I can remove for viewing or leave in to hold heat. I have been using a propane gas burner for curing my oven and I use this port for the gas pipe to pass through.

    There is another 7" glass pot lid that can be put into the the door to act as a window for baking.

    I will be gluing in a flat fiber gasket to seal against the inner arch. Also, there's a bit of tweaking to be done with the tabs that hold the window in. Otherwise, so far, so good - but I'm just in low temperature curing at this point.

    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • JimShortz
    replied
    Originally posted by JRPizza View Post
    JimShortz , I like your door within a door - clever design!
    Thank you; very kind. It's far from an original thought, but the design features that make this one work well are an inner lip that the small door seals against, hinges set well back so that with the door open the full 36cm is available for my biggest tray to fit in (35cm!), and support legs designed such that they are strong but can be modified with a big hammer to ensure the perfect angle for the outer door to seal! :-)

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    JimShortz , I like your door within a door - clever design!

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  • JimShortz
    replied
    Door number 3 for my pizza oven... This one is for when baking the day after making pizza. It's made from 3mm steel sheet and is an inch thick, stuffed full of ceramic insulation.
    It's not as insulating as my "overnight door" due to so much steel connecting the front and back, BUT has a 36cm wide opening and is ideal for baking during the day with lots of opening and closing - avoiding lifting the 14kg insulating door in and out.
    I'm far from a professional welder, but it is amazing what can be done with an angle grinder and a stick welder. Very happy!
    Only painted on the outside, away from flames (with very high heat paint). Oiled (vegetable) on the inside only.
    Doors 1 and 2
    The first two doors are of my "overnight door" - a highly insulating beast to keep all of the heat in overnight after making pizza (#148 in this thread), and my single skin door for during the burn, with a removable baffle at the bottom to control how much air enters; mostly used with baffle fully removed to allow air to sweep in at the bottom (#149 in this thread).
    That's me done for doors!!! :-)
    Attached Files

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  • w650gb500
    replied
    The front of the door with “hot rivet” accents holding an overly. Not really, they are just decorative but welded on the back side. Click image for larger version

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  • w650gb500
    replied
    Just finished the fab work on my door and now have to decide how to finish it. It’s 4” thick with 2 layers of 2” CaSi board inside 2 welded steel arches. Each one fits inside the respective opening. Should hold heat inside pretty well since it fits with only 1/4” of side to side movement. A piece of rope insulation will take care of that once it’s coated.

    Click image for larger version

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  • JimShortz
    replied
    So, I said I would report back on temperature...
    I closed it up yesterday evening having had it nice and hot for making pizza. I closed it up with both the chunky internal door and my single skin external door. From what I could see before going to bed the outside of the chunky door never got above 65C (150F) and was about 55C (130F) this morning (with the external door fully closed too, so head somewhat trapped in that void, albeit with an open chimey to vent heat).
    When cooking pizza yesterday the oven side walls had maxed at about 450C (840F), and were at about 350c (660F) when I closed it up. There was still with a reasonable amount of chunky embers in the oven when I shut it up.
    I opened the door 13 hours later to begin baking and side walls were still at 260C (500F). Pretty happy with that :-)
    An hour later I opened her up to check on the pork roast and roast potatoes, walls still at 255C (490F) and spuds and roast looking good.
    Cake is next, when it has cooled a bit... :-)
    Attached Files

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  • JimShortz
    replied
    I also have this single skin steel door that fis on the outside for use when heating up, or for a short term closure. The bar across the bottom pulls out to allow for a strong draw when doing the initial burn.
    Attached Files

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  • JimShortz
    replied
    Door for overnight insulation...
    I made this baby today, oven heating as I type! :-)
    It's made from 2mm steel and a pair of 7.5cm thick AAC blocks sandwiched between the steel faces and carved to fit the shape. First use later today - I will report back on success, or otherwise...
    I have attempted to limit connections between front and rear face, but the 6 bolts are unavaoidable (unless anyone has a better idea!), and along the bottom I made the steel panels only connect along about 30% of the edge (see photos).
    Yes, I know I am not a professional welder. I only have an old stick welder, and although not beautiful, it is strong.
    We shall see how it works... :-)Door for overnight insulation...
    I made this baby today, oven heating as I type! :-)
    It's made from 2mm steel and a pair of 7.5cm thick AAC blocks sandwiched between the steel faces and carved to fit the shape. First use later today - I will report back on success, or otherwise...
    I have attempted to limit connections between front and rear face, but the 6 bolts are unavaoidable (unless anyone has a better idea!), and along the bottom I made the steel panels only connect along about 30% of the edge (see photos).
    Yes, I know I am not a professional welder. I only have an old stick welder, and although not beautiful, it is strong.
    We shall see how it works... :-)
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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