Show us your Door Thread

[david s]

Nice job. You may have gone a bit heavy with the brackets and bolts as they are highly conductive steel. The bigger and thicker they are the more heat they'll conduct from the inside to the outside. How heavy is the finished door? The only way to test it is to use it. Can you report on its performance for the benefit of members?

[Dino_Pizza]

Thanks Mark, I have to thank this community for all the inspiration over the years to figure out ways to do things that are new to us and so unique to a WFO build.
Cheers, Dino

[MarkJerling]

Looks good Dino! Like you, I can't weld, so I really like your solution.

[Dino_Pizza]

NO WELDING on my door. I can’t weld and the last thing I need is another tool I never use in my garage, so after 12 years, my “temporary” door made of left over oven cement and board and insulation broke open. And I wanted it to be all stainless or common steel and no aluminum or zinc coatings.

New Door Ingredients:
I bought a Common Steel at 20gauge thick sheet (I have to spray paint it with high heat bbq paint to prevent rust.)
20g common steel was easily cut by HF electric sheers (yay!, this was my 1st hurdle)
I used 6 u-brackets (stainless steel of course) for the frame, on the inside to bolt-sandwich the inner and slightly bigger outer door together.
I then cut one 2” steel strip for the bottom and sides… then a 24” piece for the curved top that needed a bend at each end so they can be bolted to the sides at a small overlap.
I applied a tube of high heat food safe silicon as a bead into the inside seams of the inner door and edge, then layer in 2 layers of good oven insulation then layer a piece of oven safe silicon ( blue mat from Amazon) cut to fit so there would be a minor bit of insulation between the 6 brackets and the outer door.
Bought those bbq handles on Amazon.
Put thru-bolds in from the outer door to sandwich it together, added more silicon sealant (very little at minor gaps), spray painted again and it’s done.
OH, I put 2” peel and stick Kevlar-nomax smoker felt along the bottom and the door goes in softly but tight.
There was some steel filing, and oven arch grinding that was unavoidable but it fits great now. The 20 gauge common steel finished door feels really solid, I’m glad I didn’t go thicker or thinner.
……….
last week made pizza, then put the door on at night at 650°., it was 475° next morning and 270° on third morning. The IF gun said door was. 150-125° for the first two days. I am HAPPY .

Other hurdles: finding SS brackets (these where for barn-door 2x4 barricade and where the most expensive parts), that I had to drill with hand drill, good bits, and drilling oil. Buying 2-3 $8 to $15 SS lock washer, screw and bolt packs, and I was so nervous about bending my 2” wide edge 90° for the bottom piece and a partial bend for the curved top, but simple mallet and vise bolted to short piece of wood on my patio table was all the work bench I needed and it turned out great.

The Dorothy’s Slipper magnet is temporary until we find something unique and larger and then glue a magnet on it, Perhaps a painted Italian tile or slice of polished stone. Last pic is Lamb Shank with fresh sauce from our garden tomatoes , and a grilled octopus with Mayer lemon, zucchini, and rosemary.

[Chach]

Very nice, Ricky!

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Ricky

[NCMan]

Never posted my door. I have a stainless door that is 4" thick which houses 4" of calsil board I had left over from the build. The stainless that surrounds the board is 16 gauge all welded and the face is made from 1/8" thick stainless to prevent warping. The stainless handles was formed from round stock and welded to the face only not through bolted. I was worried about the handles getting hot but they stay cool. I guess the calsil board is doing its job so no gloves are necessary to remove the door. I was thinking of doing wooden handles using stainless L brackets and oak dowles but I am very happy the way it turned out and it functions very well.


Ricky

Very nice, Ricky!

[Chach]

Never posted my door. I have a stainless door that is 4" thick which houses 4" of calsil board I had left over from the build. The stainless that surrounds the board is 16 gauge all welded and the face is made from 1/8" thick stainless to prevent warping. The stainless handles was formed from round stock and welded to the face only not through bolted. I was worried about the handles getting hot but they stay cool. I guess the calsil board is doing its job so no gloves are necessary to remove the door. I was thinking of doing wooden handles using stainless L brackets and oak dowles but I am very happy the way it turned out and it functions very well.


Ricky

[JRPizza]

Nice simple no weld door! If your board material under the bolt heads starts to deform you could always put a thin face sheet on the inside.

[Kvanbael]

No welding skills, so I tried to keep my insulated door simple:

I already had the cut-to-order stainless steel front (4mm). I didn't want to add too much weight to it. For insulation, I used a 5" CalSil piece, left over from my oven floor. It's really easy to cut, drill and mill and surprisingly strong, actually. Sure it's brittle, but it requires quite some abuse before it breaks).

Obviously, I don't want these white fibers near my food, so I wrapped the CalSil in a very thick aluminium foil that I cut from three large disposable serving platters. It can be cut and worked by hand, yet is hopefully a lot more durable than eg. regular tinfoil. Time will tell.

Everything is held together with 4 stainless steel M10 bolts, which also hold the basic hardwood handles.
The bolts don't get too hot, and I believe the oven's cool down curve has improved significantly (more data needed to confirm).

More information in the pictures.

[UtahBeehiver]

Vintage Pyrex lids (prior to 1998) were made from borosilicate, this is when the Bordon company took over Pyrex and started making glass lids with soda lime instead of borosilicate.. I found a vintage pyrex lid at a thrift shop for a few bucks.

I just remember who made the window door, it was Mr. Chipster from about 2012.

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...-for-oven-door

[deejayoh]

Thanks for the comments.

The fabricator gets the credit for the appearance. They do work for hospitals and food service - and it shows in how they surface the metal. This kind of work is affordable here in Mexico, especially if you can scrounge material laying around in their shop. The price would be crazy to hire out in the US.

I can't image that my pot lid is borosilicate glass, as it cost all of $7. It's use would be limited to lower oven temperatures. We'll see how that goes.

Rob

Interesting on the lid. I was curious if one can purchase a borosilicate glass disc. Looks like you can get a 6" disc for about $50 at that AtoZ company

[Jubilado]

Thanks for the comments.

The fabricator gets the credit for the appearance. They do work for hospitals and food service - and it shows in how they surface the metal. This kind of work is affordable here in Mexico, especially if you can scrounge material laying around in their shop. The price would be crazy to hire out in the US.

I can't image that my pot lid is borosilicate glass, as it cost all of $7. It's use would be limited to lower oven temperatures. We'll see how that goes.

Rob

[MarkJerling]

Here's a few photos of my stainless steel door. I can't take credit for the fabrication, but it is my design.

4" of ceramic fiber remnants. 430 stainless sheet metal with heavier 304 for the main back.

It has an insulated plug that I can remove for viewing or leave in to hold heat. I have been using a propane gas burner for curing my oven and I use this port for the gas pipe to pass through.

There is another 7" glass pot lid that can be put into the the door to act as a window for baking.

I will be gluing in a flat fiber gasket to seal against the inner arch. Also, there's a bit of tweaking to be done with the tabs that hold the window in. Otherwise, so far, so good - but I'm just in low temperature curing at this point.

Rob

Ooooh, that's very pretty! Nicely done.

[UtahBeehiver]

Haven't seen the pot lid in the door for several years. One of the WFO bakers had us all hunting for old pyrex after he made his door with one. I seem to remember that the old ones were make of borosilicate and could handle quite high temps. I still have one if any builders want it.

[Jubilado]

Here's a few photos of my stainless steel door. I can't take credit for the fabrication, but it is my design.

4" of ceramic fiber remnants. 430 stainless sheet metal with heavier 304 for the main back.

It has an insulated plug that I can remove for viewing or leave in to hold heat. I have been using a propane gas burner for curing my oven and I use this port for the gas pipe to pass through.

There is another 7" glass pot lid that can be put into the the door to act as a window for baking.

I will be gluing in a flat fiber gasket to seal against the inner arch. Also, there's a bit of tweaking to be done with the tabs that hold the window in. Otherwise, so far, so good - but I'm just in low temperature curing at this point.

Rob