Show us your Door Thread

[w650gb500]

Just finished the fab work on my door and now have to decide how to finish it. It’s 4” thick with 2 layers of 2” CaSi board inside 2 welded steel arches. Each one fits inside the respective opening. Should hold heat inside pretty well since it fits with only 1/4” of side to side movement. A piece of rope insulation will take care of that once it’s coated.

[w650gb500]

The front of the door with “hot rivet” accents holding an overly. Not really, they are just decorative but welded on the back side.

[JimShortz]

Door number 3 for my pizza oven... This one is for when baking the day after making pizza. It's made from 3mm steel sheet and is an inch thick, stuffed full of ceramic insulation.
It's not as insulating as my "overnight door" due to so much steel connecting the front and back, BUT has a 36cm wide opening and is ideal for baking during the day with lots of opening and closing - avoiding lifting the 14kg insulating door in and out.
I'm far from a professional welder, but it is amazing what can be done with an angle grinder and a stick welder. Very happy!
Only painted on the outside, away from flames (with very high heat paint). Oiled (vegetable) on the inside only.
Doors 1 and 2
The first two doors are of my "overnight door" - a highly insulating beast to keep all of the heat in overnight after making pizza (#148 in this thread), and my single skin door for during the burn, with a removable baffle at the bottom to control how much air enters; mostly used with baffle fully removed to allow air to sweep in at the bottom (#149 in this thread).
That's me done for doors!!! :-)

[JRPizza]

JimShortz , I like your door within a door - clever design!

[JimShortz]

JimShortz , I like your door within a door - clever design!

Thank you; very kind. It's far from an original thought, but the design features that make this one work well are an inner lip that the small door seals against, hinges set well back so that with the door open the full 36cm is available for my biggest tray to fit in (35cm!), and support legs designed such that they are strong but can be modified with a big hammer to ensure the perfect angle for the outer door to seal! :-)

[Jubilado]

Here's a few photos of my stainless steel door. I can't take credit for the fabrication, but it is my design.

4" of ceramic fiber remnants. 430 stainless sheet metal with heavier 304 for the main back.

It has an insulated plug that I can remove for viewing or leave in to hold heat. I have been using a propane gas burner for curing my oven and I use this port for the gas pipe to pass through.

There is another 7" glass pot lid that can be put into the the door to act as a window for baking.

I will be gluing in a flat fiber gasket to seal against the inner arch. Also, there's a bit of tweaking to be done with the tabs that hold the window in. Otherwise, so far, so good - but I'm just in low temperature curing at this point.

Rob

[UtahBeehiver]

Haven't seen the pot lid in the door for several years. One of the WFO bakers had us all hunting for old pyrex after he made his door with one. I seem to remember that the old ones were make of borosilicate and could handle quite high temps. I still have one if any builders want it.

[MarkJerling]

Here's a few photos of my stainless steel door. I can't take credit for the fabrication, but it is my design.

4" of ceramic fiber remnants. 430 stainless sheet metal with heavier 304 for the main back.

It has an insulated plug that I can remove for viewing or leave in to hold heat. I have been using a propane gas burner for curing my oven and I use this port for the gas pipe to pass through.

There is another 7" glass pot lid that can be put into the the door to act as a window for baking.

I will be gluing in a flat fiber gasket to seal against the inner arch. Also, there's a bit of tweaking to be done with the tabs that hold the window in. Otherwise, so far, so good - but I'm just in low temperature curing at this point.

Rob

Ooooh, that's very pretty! Nicely done.

[Jubilado]

Thanks for the comments.

The fabricator gets the credit for the appearance. They do work for hospitals and food service - and it shows in how they surface the metal. This kind of work is affordable here in Mexico, especially if you can scrounge material laying around in their shop. The price would be crazy to hire out in the US.

I can't image that my pot lid is borosilicate glass, as it cost all of $7. It's use would be limited to lower oven temperatures. We'll see how that goes.

Rob

[deejayoh]

Thanks for the comments.

The fabricator gets the credit for the appearance. They do work for hospitals and food service - and it shows in how they surface the metal. This kind of work is affordable here in Mexico, especially if you can scrounge material laying around in their shop. The price would be crazy to hire out in the US.

I can't image that my pot lid is borosilicate glass, as it cost all of $7. It's use would be limited to lower oven temperatures. We'll see how that goes.

Rob

Interesting on the lid. I was curious if one can purchase a borosilicate glass disc. Looks like you can get a 6" disc for about $50 at that AtoZ company

[UtahBeehiver]

Vintage Pyrex lids (prior to 1998) were made from borosilicate, this is when the Bordon company took over Pyrex and started making glass lids with soda lime instead of borosilicate.. I found a vintage pyrex lid at a thrift shop for a few bucks.

I just remember who made the window door, it was Mr. Chipster from about 2012.

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...-for-oven-door

[Kvanbael]

No welding skills, so I tried to keep my insulated door simple:

I already had the cut-to-order stainless steel front (4mm). I didn't want to add too much weight to it. For insulation, I used a 5" CalSil piece, left over from my oven floor. It's really easy to cut, drill and mill and surprisingly strong, actually. Sure it's brittle, but it requires quite some abuse before it breaks).

Obviously, I don't want these white fibers near my food, so I wrapped the CalSil in a very thick aluminium foil that I cut from three large disposable serving platters. It can be cut and worked by hand, yet is hopefully a lot more durable than eg. regular tinfoil. Time will tell.

Everything is held together with 4 stainless steel M10 bolts, which also hold the basic hardwood handles.
The bolts don't get too hot, and I believe the oven's cool down curve has improved significantly (more data needed to confirm).

More information in the pictures.

[JRPizza]

Nice simple no weld door! If your board material under the bolt heads starts to deform you could always put a thin face sheet on the inside.

[Chach]

Never posted my door. I have a stainless door that is 4" thick which houses 4" of calsil board I had left over from the build. The stainless that surrounds the board is 16 gauge all welded and the face is made from 1/8" thick stainless to prevent warping. The stainless handles was formed from round stock and welded to the face only not through bolted. I was worried about the handles getting hot but they stay cool. I guess the calsil board is doing its job so no gloves are necessary to remove the door. I was thinking of doing wooden handles using stainless L brackets and oak dowles but I am very happy the way it turned out and it functions very well.


Ricky

[NCMan]

Never posted my door. I have a stainless door that is 4" thick which houses 4" of calsil board I had left over from the build. The stainless that surrounds the board is 16 gauge all welded and the face is made from 1/8" thick stainless to prevent warping. The stainless handles was formed from round stock and welded to the face only not through bolted. I was worried about the handles getting hot but they stay cool. I guess the calsil board is doing its job so no gloves are necessary to remove the door. I was thinking of doing wooden handles using stainless L brackets and oak dowles but I am very happy the way it turned out and it functions very well.


Ricky

Very nice, Ricky!