Show us your Door Thread

[Sixto]

That makes perfect sense! Thank you for your detailed response David!

[fox]

I use a very similar solution to David but use vermiculite board for the backing, I use vermiculite and metal for the inner door and vermiculite and wood for the outer door.
vermiculite board is used to line wood burning stoves and is readily available at associated stores.

[MarkJerling]

That sounds great for the Stainless or Aluminum, Thanks Mark! Any suggestions about the insulation material if I can't get calcium silicate???

The aluminium is only for my outer door. Aluminium does not play that nicely with heat. For insulation, encapsulated in the steel box on the inside of my wooden door, furnace blanket works really well.

[Sixto]

The aluminium is only for my outer door. Aluminium does not play that nicely with heat. For insulation, encapsulated in the steel box on the inside of my wooden door, furnace blanket works really well.

Got it. thanks Mark! I'll probably do two doors, a stainless steel sheet with no insulation and a perlite/refractory cement like what David described.

[dfhood]

Stainless pieces upcycled from junked commercial cooler, stainless rivets and handles (may need to use potholders -_-), ceramic glass, ~2.75" ceramic insulation, 5" thermometer from forno store inset into 2" hole, and probe guard on back. Would've been nice to weld this door together, but did what I could with what I had. Hoping it will help to retain heat decently, despite the amount of glass. Looking forward to using it later this month. Planning to also make a simple separate door (thin, lightweight) for easier airflow control if desired.
Door pictured is intended for retained heat baking, with visibility using a flashlight.

[UtahBeehiver]

Great job on repurposing SS and use of ceramic glass.

[david s]

Very nice job. I’d be very interested to know how it operates. Not sure of the thickness of stainless you used, but it is notorious for warping from heat. The thinner the stainless the greater the problem. This can cause sealing issues against the rebate which can negate any gains in heat retention from the insulation.

[rsandler]

Lots of great doors on here. A question for folks--thoughts on having the door go through the entry arch (like a plug) with a small lip of something to sit against the reveal, vs the body of the door sitting against the reveal? Seems like a majority of the door builds in this thread do the plug version, but a few do the other way, and I if I follow the pictures, there are some hybrids, with most of the door outside, but a small bit going into the arch. I also saw a build thread where david s specifically recommended not doing the plug approach. My first oven had the door built plug-style, but getting that to fit snug-but-not-too-snug was a pain in the neck. Trying to think through what to do on my current build.

[david s]

No, this is a bad idea IMO. For my first oven I thought I was being clever and made the oven mouth and door slightly conical so that the door fitted nicely. The mistake was not to account for the shrinkage on oven cooling, when placing the cooler door inside the oven mouth. The result was the door jammed so tight in the oven mouth it was extremely difficult to remove. It is far better to have the face of the door sitting against the face of the oven mouth. For the same reason, this method is superior to a hinged door.