Show us your Door Thread

[JimShortz]

JimShortz , I like your door within a door - clever design!

Thank you; very kind. It's far from an original thought, but the design features that make this one work well are an inner lip that the small door seals against, hinges set well back so that with the door open the full 36cm is available for my biggest tray to fit in (35cm!), and support legs designed such that they are strong but can be modified with a big hammer to ensure the perfect angle for the outer door to seal! :-)

[JRPizza]

JimShortz , I like your door within a door - clever design!

[JimShortz]

Door number 3 for my pizza oven... This one is for when baking the day after making pizza. It's made from 3mm steel sheet and is an inch thick, stuffed full of ceramic insulation.
It's not as insulating as my "overnight door" due to so much steel connecting the front and back, BUT has a 36cm wide opening and is ideal for baking during the day with lots of opening and closing - avoiding lifting the 14kg insulating door in and out.
I'm far from a professional welder, but it is amazing what can be done with an angle grinder and a stick welder. Very happy!
Only painted on the outside, away from flames (with very high heat paint). Oiled (vegetable) on the inside only.
Doors 1 and 2
The first two doors are of my "overnight door" - a highly insulating beast to keep all of the heat in overnight after making pizza (#148 in this thread), and my single skin door for during the burn, with a removable baffle at the bottom to control how much air enters; mostly used with baffle fully removed to allow air to sweep in at the bottom (#149 in this thread).
That's me done for doors!!! :-)

[w650gb500]

The front of the door with “hot rivet” accents holding an overly. Not really, they are just decorative but welded on the back side.

[w650gb500]

Just finished the fab work on my door and now have to decide how to finish it. It’s 4” thick with 2 layers of 2” CaSi board inside 2 welded steel arches. Each one fits inside the respective opening. Should hold heat inside pretty well since it fits with only 1/4” of side to side movement. A piece of rope insulation will take care of that once it’s coated.

[JimShortz]

So, I said I would report back on temperature...
I closed it up yesterday evening having had it nice and hot for making pizza. I closed it up with both the chunky internal door and my single skin external door. From what I could see before going to bed the outside of the chunky door never got above 65C (150F) and was about 55C (130F) this morning (with the external door fully closed too, so head somewhat trapped in that void, albeit with an open chimey to vent heat).
When cooking pizza yesterday the oven side walls had maxed at about 450C (840F), and were at about 350c (660F) when I closed it up. There was still with a reasonable amount of chunky embers in the oven when I shut it up.
I opened the door 13 hours later to begin baking and side walls were still at 260C (500F). Pretty happy with that :-)
An hour later I opened her up to check on the pork roast and roast potatoes, walls still at 255C (490F) and spuds and roast looking good.
Cake is next, when it has cooled a bit... :-)

[JimShortz]

I also have this single skin steel door that fis on the outside for use when heating up, or for a short term closure. The bar across the bottom pulls out to allow for a strong draw when doing the initial burn.

[JimShortz]

Door for overnight insulation...
I made this baby today, oven heating as I type! :-)
It's made from 2mm steel and a pair of 7.5cm thick AAC blocks sandwiched between the steel faces and carved to fit the shape. First use later today - I will report back on success, or otherwise...
I have attempted to limit connections between front and rear face, but the 6 bolts are unavaoidable (unless anyone has a better idea!), and along the bottom I made the steel panels only connect along about 30% of the edge (see photos).
Yes, I know I am not a professional welder. I only have an old stick welder, and although not beautiful, it is strong.
We shall see how it works... :-)Door for overnight insulation...
I made this baby today, oven heating as I type! :-)
It's made from 2mm steel and a pair of 7.5cm thick AAC blocks sandwiched between the steel faces and carved to fit the shape. First use later today - I will report back on success, or otherwise...
I have attempted to limit connections between front and rear face, but the 6 bolts are unavaoidable (unless anyone has a better idea!), and along the bottom I made the steel panels only connect along about 30% of the edge (see photos).
Yes, I know I am not a professional welder. I only have an old stick welder, and although not beautiful, it is strong.
We shall see how it works... :-)

[MarkJerling]

Very nicely done Disco Stu. Your method is similar to mine, but I'd say mine is a lot rougher!

[Disco Stu]

0.7mm staino inner, the top section was curved in the sheetmetal shrinker, two layers of 25mm superwool insulation, 3mm steel plate face, 10mm staino handles, staino pop rivets.

[Disco Stu]

[BenKeith]

I kept mine fairly simple. 1/4" aluminum outer shell, 16ga SS inner shell with 8# fiber mat between them and oven door seal around the edge for nice tight fit .
The outer door is used for initial firing to keep smoke from coming out the front. It actually works better than planned because the air coming through the opening in the bottom is like forced air at the base of the flame and heats up hotter and faster than without it.
I guess you have to click on the photos to see all four

[MarkJerling]

We made pizzas two evenings in a row. On Saturday night, after we finished cooking pizzas, I fitted the door. On Sunday, late afternoon I made fire again. The door helped to retain so much heat that I only needed to make fire for about one and a half hours and the oven was back to 600degC+ and held the heat much better too. I suspect that the bricks are well saturated now.

[NCMan]

[MarkJerling]

Here's mine, before I fitted handles. 32mm stained ply on the outside, with a stainless steel "box" on the inside with furnace fireproofing bricks and blanket inside the (50mm thick) box. This is working very well with the outside of the door remaining at 45degC or lower, while the inside gets to whatever the temperature of the oven is.

Process: Templated door from arch. Door fits flush against inner arch. I saw no need to make a "stepped" door edge to have the door protrude into the smaller inner arch. I made the steel box first out of 1mm thick stainless steel sheet (for the faces that are seen) and galvanized sheet that I happened to have lying about for the face which is screwed to the back of the timber door. I made the steel door "box" first and test fitted that before filling the "box" with the insulation. Next, I made the timber door and test fitted that too. After that, I screwed the box outside face and sides to the timber door face and after that I filled the box with the insulation materials, namely the furnace insulating brick and furnace blanket. The last step was to pop rivet on the inside stainless steel door face.

I have now fitted handles to the outside, so I need to take some photos of that and add. I still would like to drill a small hole through the whole thing for a door mounted thermometer. All up, my cost was $20 for the stainless steel and rivets as all the rest was scrap materials, even the handles are left-over door handles from another project.