Show us your Door Thread

[Yokosuka dweller]

Hi JR, thanks a lot for the response and inputs and sorry for the slow response. I didn't see this until now. No notification and I've been trying to avoid internet a bit to due to mental overload of bad news from the state of the world.

I am checking your door in the link, and yes, incidentally I have begun my door in a similar manner as your door. I cut 1,5mm mild steel plate (just under 18 gauge) for 4" thickness of the door where I will stuff with leftover inswool blanket, perlite and whatever I have left.

Definitely I should practice weld some before going at the door sheet pieces I've cut. Don't want to mess it up. I don't have access to gas, so will have to be flux core mig and try to spot weld as much as possible on the insides so most of the splatter is hidden from plain sight. Then I thought to weld the bottom at the very last, so that the external welds are not in your face. However, if I do 1/2" lip in the front bottom then those welds will be visible. Oh well, as long as it works and is stable.

I also ordered some bbq insulation tape to put around the edges of the door to make a nice fit in the arch and retain heat better. I think it's not fiberglass. Want to keep that away from the food area.

One question I had though was how much smaller I need to have the metal sheets than the arch diameter? It should be a bit smaller both for sliding door in and out easily, and allow for heat expansion of the door. I read others have reduced by 1/4", but seems a lot to me. I will think about it some more before going at it.

Cheers!

[JRPizza]

What is your welding skill level? My door inner shell is 20 gauge mild steel (~.812mm) and I had trouble not burning through so welded my door with a series of tacks. Later I went back with some scrap and was able to do continuous welds without burning through but for a door the tack method works fine. You can weld stainless (at least some kinds) with mild steel wire but as you said the welds will rust if you don't protect them. I personally disliked using flux core wire due to the spatter, slag, and smoke but mig with gas is great. Whatever you decide to do hopefully you have plenty of material and you can practice to get the machine dialed in. You can make a door any thickness, but I did 4" to make the door stiff (avoid warpage), make it stable (mine does not rock at all) and maximize the insulating properties. You just have to read what others have done and see what you are comfortable with. Check out my thread and see how I made my door so I could have all my welds at inside corners, as I have a heck of a time welding along outside corners.
PS, if you do a web search you will find lots of folks saying they have welded stainless with mild steel wire, and a bunch more folks telling them how bad it is

[Yokosuka dweller]

I'm getting ready to make a door for my oven and will check this valuable thread. I have some questions about it maybe someone can chime in:

I finally bought a welder, something I've been wanting to get into, so this is a good time to do so. It's a multi-welder machine that can do tig, arc, and also mig welding. Because I have no experience and want to keep cost down, I want to do non-gas flux core mig welding. I read online that flux core mig welding won't make a nice result compared to tig welding, but that it's easier for beginners. I don't really mind if it ain't a super pretty result, as long as it works. Also, stainless welding wire is hard and expensive to find here in my neck of the woods. Is it possible and okay for me to weld stainless with a normal mild steel flux core wire? Will it stick to the stainless? I realise it won't be immune to rusting then, but I thought I can just spraypaint a coat of heat resistant color over the welds. Is that a possible way to do it?

Finally, what is a good thickness of steel plate for the door I need to look at, is 1mm enough? And how thick is a good thickness of the door? Is 2" enough? Sorry about the confusion between metric and imperial systems. I'm challenged here...

[ogopogodude]

I must say, that I really do like my cast iron reproduction door as it is very sturdy and solid ....and it was delivered from Europe (UK) in a very sturdy box.

[ogopogodude]

Interesting ... I went to eBay and typed in pizza oven cast iron door and came across almost the exact same one that I purchased 5 years ago. The three differences are: 1. it opens on the opposite side (hinge is on the right hand side) 2. there is a cool temperature gauge instead of my "peek-a-boo" swinging latch 3. there is a horizontal vent on the bottom of the door (very useful, I would think) The pricing is about the same as what I paid a few years ago.

[ogopogodude]

Here is my door ... (it seems so plain and simple compared to others' doors. I must say, that I really want a thermometer now that I have seen others' pizza ovens)

[JRPizza]

Here are the details of my door, which is also around 4" thick. The weight came in at 10lb 6oz.
https://community.fornobravo.com/for...442#post393442

[UtahBeehiver]

Building a 4" thick door will give you a lot of insulation power but weight will be a factor. IMHO, Ceramic Blanket, Foamglass and ceramic blanket have roughly the same K value (thermal conductivity) so use the one that is the lightest in weight. SS has the lowest K value of carbon steel, aluminum so best metal choice but get as thin as possible and still be weldable.I can't tell from pic but it looks like the reveal is failry small, 1/2" or so. Some builders are using wood stove gaskets for tighter seals but I did not. Not sure a door thermometer gives a true internal temp. I use a laser gun.

[djginivisian]

Oven door design and material Choices:

I'm ready to begin the door construction

The back of the door will recess 4" into the oven opening.

To insulate, I am weighing the pros and cons between CFB, Fireblanket, or Foam glass block.

Also considering best gauge stainless to use, with strength, durability and weight being factors.

Will likely have two spring door handles.

Opting not to include a thermometer

Does anyone care to weigh in with some facts & opinions?

[shanxk8]

Started on my permanent insulated door and have been slowly working away at it. I'm sure it will evolve over time, perhaps eventually get replaced.
It still requires some finishing with rustic hardware, but it is more functional than a straight wood door to retain heat. It is 22G plain steel, bent, and attached with machine screws.

[DaveHI]

To report back -- It works well. Obviously more heat loss than a wooden door since steel has such high thermal conductivity, but I think I might make a second door out of hardwood to back it for when I'm trying to hold heat.

It did start rusting here by the beach even with 3-4 coats of high temp clear spray paint on it. Cleaned it up and went to black paint.

[deejayoh]

looks like that Etsy shop makes doors to order based on your specs. Good deal at $125 for those without handy skills, nice find

Its a pretty good price, but for those who are interested in learning to weld - you can buy the same flux-core welder I got at harbor freight for ~$70 after the discount, get some mild grade steel, and go to town. I found the welder on Craigslist so I think I paid $60 for it + a welding mask and gloves.

[madspeed]

looks like that Etsy shop makes doors to order based on your specs. Good deal at $125 for those without handy skills, nice find

[DaveHI]

I made a mess on doors with my first oven in Hawaii. Built the oven and then tried to find someone to make me a metal/insulated door without much luck unless I wanted to spend $600 --nope. My own wood efforts with tile backer worked ok but they tended to fall over when I used them for draft doors and suddenly I had extra fuel.

For my new nat gas oven, I found a guy on Etsy that makes door. Haven't tried it as I'm just now at the last ring/final keystone stage but it looks pretty cool. At least I can't burn it up!

https://www.etsy.com/listing/2746997..._home_listings

[david s]

Thermometers in the door are subject to accidental damage and thermocouples will fail sooner or later. After you have used your oven a fair bit you rely less and less on temperature measurement. Providing my oven is pretty dry I usually use the time taken to fire the thing as a guide to temperature e.g.. one hour of flame for roasting or baking and one and a half to two for pizza. WFO's are also pretty forgiving in regards to temperature. When it starts to smell good it's usually good, If it's not cooked enough put it back in until it is. A cheap oven air temp thermometer placed inside the oven is excellent as is one of those thermometers you stick into the centre of a roast or bread loaf. IR thermometers are good but can give false readings because they are reading surface temperature. They're ok if used after the oven has been sitting unfired for a fair while.