36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

[Bec1208]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Your joints shouldn't have cracks in the mortar like that after the brick is placed. I suspect maybe the brick was bumped after it set separating it from it's neighbor. Once the bond is broken, you really need to reset the brick.

One tip that helped me was getting a jointing tool to go over the joints once they'd set a bit. Seemed to help strengthen the bond.

Thanks, I will look for a joining tool. Bruce

[deejayoh]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Your joints shouldn't have cracks in the mortar like that after the brick is placed. I suspect maybe the brick was bumped after it set separating it from it's neighbor. Once the bond is broken, you really need to reset the brick.

One tip that helped me was getting a jointing tool to go over the joints once they'd set a bit. Seemed to help strengthen the bond.

[Bec1208]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Gudday Bruce
I had a look at you secound course today on the computer it a bit patchy with gapes .
Regards dave

I tried your tips on the final bricks in the course, seems to be some improvement. Bruce

[Bec1208]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Bruce,
Here my thoughts and observations. You are correct, the rod in the center of the brick bracket in relation to bracket width, yes?????. As seen in the playing with my with IT in the pictures, the rod in relation to the center of brick vertically, No........ I flipped the bracket upside down placing the rod at the bottom of brick the arc had very little or no vertical offset error. I think If the rod is placed in the middle of brick vertically it may still introduce a unacceptable error........just my opinion. The small width of the brick bracket horizontally allows movement of the IT in both horizontal directions with very little disturbance of the brick, caused by any horizontal offset error cause by brick bracket width????..hope this helps??..my perception of this comment is even confusing to me but playing with my IT tells me different?????..I never believed mom about the blindness??LOL

PS set the brick with rod in the center of brick horizontally

Have to say I am jealous as your tool is 2" longer than mine.

Here is a pic of my IT, any thoughts?

[kbartman]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Bruce, Dave,
My brick bracket width is about 1 and 3\4? at this point?? Dave you brought up a good point. A shim, good idea?.. 4mm seems like a little over kill at this point for my build, the radius of my dome is still quite large. I sure using a shim or cutting the bracket width down will become necessary as the horizontal radius decreases. At this point all seems well. With the mortar still moist the IT mas moved around the dome allowing better overall alignment. I imagine if the brick and mortar was allowed to set with bracket in place it may not rotate around the dome and would need to be lifted from the brick.

KB

[cobblerdave]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Thanks for the help. I have assumed the IT rod should be centered on brick. Is that right? Would like to learn from your experience. Thanks, Bruce

Gudday Bruce
Looks like if you have it centred the bracket can move the brick as you move it away to set the next.
What might work to make it clear is to use a shim of 4 mm ply on the face of the bracket. Slip it out when moving it so that should provide enough clearance. Would have to adjust length of the IT to compensate for the shims thickness.
What do you recon Bruce? Kbartman?
Regards dave

[kbartman]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Bruce,
Here my thoughts and observations. You are correct, the rod in the center of the brick bracket in relation to bracket width, yes……………. As seen in the playing with my with IT in the pictures, the rod in relation to the center of brick vertically, No........ I flipped the bracket upside down placing the rod at the bottom of brick the arc had very little or no vertical offset error. I think If the rod is placed in the middle of brick vertically it may still introduce a unacceptable error........just my opinion. The small width of the brick bracket horizontally allows movement of the IT in both horizontal directions with very little disturbance of the brick, caused by any horizontal offset error cause by brick bracket width…………..hope this helps……..my perception of this comment is even confusing to me but playing with my IT tells me different……………..I never believed mom about the blindness……LOL

PS set the brick with rod in the center of brick horizontally

[Bec1208]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Bruce,
I took Utah's advice and modified my brick bracket. Attached are some photos of my mistake and the consequences. I had the nut welded to the bottom of bracket after playing with my IT. Hope it doesn?t cause blindness?.LOL. It seems to be working well at the bottom. The smaller width of the second bracket I made seems to be a plus allowing for easy rotation around the course without disturbing the set of the brick as it is moved away from the brick and around the dome.

Thanks for the help. I have assumed the IT rod should be centered on brick. Is that right? Would like to learn from your experience. Thanks, Bruce

[Bec1208]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Gudday Bruce
I had a look at you secound course today on the computer it a bit patchy with gapes .

That was kindly worded.

Firstly you are probably using the round tipped trowel and spooning the mortar out of the bucket. Right?

Good guess. I'll switch to the board.

Hope this helps
Regards dave

Dave, that was very helpful. Watching the videos is useful to a point, but it really helps me to combine that with a verbal description of the process. I will lay out the plywood and start cutting brick for the next course. I will also slow down until I get more proficient in the process. Thanks again, Bruce

[kbartman]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Gudday tbartman
Thanks for your words and your experience with an IT tool . My own is with a ply dome guide and others with sand forms .... So you experience and opinions is appreciated
Regards Dave

Dave,
The IT has work good thus far for me. I'm not so sure when I near the top. I may revert to some type of form to hold the sliding bricks till the whole course are complete and locked by gravity. PS. sorry I meant to say all your advice is good.

KB,

I would be concerned about the cumulative affect the offset might cause in having the brick face perpendicular to the arc of the dome. Each course will be slightly off being tangent to the arch and by time you do several courses it may cause issues. Looks like the nuts are only tack on anyway, nothing a grinder won't take care of easily. Your choice.

PS. Thanks Utah for the advice, seeing is believing……. I will be modifieing the brick bracket.

Bruce,
I took Utah's advice and modified my brick bracket. Attached are some photos of my mistake and the consequences. I had the nut welded to the bottom of bracket after playing with my IT. Hope it doesn’t cause blindness….LOL. It seems to be working well at the bottom. The smaller width of the second bracket I made seems to be a plus allowing for easy rotation around the course without disturbing the set of the brick as it is moved away from the brick and around the dome.

PS.
Notice the last picture I made a second bracket and welded the nut to the top again ...........LOL I told you all, I stay confused. Take what I say with a grain of salt. The old brackets in the third picture are for sale they are of no use to me or anyone else. Scape metal!

[cobblerdave]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Bruce,
Looking good so far....Dave has some good advice.......The IT is your friend I have found that placing the brick in the IT works best for me the just wiggle and tap keeping the IT on the brick. Brick falls in perfect position. Then onto the next brick, Then back to the previous bricks to check alignment.

Gudday tbartman
Thanks for your words and your experience with an IT tool . My own is with a ply dome guide and others with sand forms .... So you experience and opinions is appreciated
Regards Dave

[kbartman]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Bruce,
Looking good so far....Dave has some good advice.......The IT is your friend I have found that placing the brick in the IT works best for me the just wiggle and tap keeping the IT on the brick. Brick falls in perfect position. Then onto the next brick, Then back to the previous bricks to check alignment.

[cobblerdave]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Gudday Bruce
I had a look at you secound course today on the computer it a bit patchy with gapes . I don't think any of my drawings are going to help at this time.
Now you have watched some pics on u tube on brick laying watch a few more. Up to this place in you life you have never seen many bricks being layed and others have. You tend to learn to do something after it becomes more familiar.
I teach that way , demonstrate,demonstrate, denmonstrate, then I explain what I am doing step by step. Then they can have a go ... And find out what they can do naturally and what they have to concentrate on to learn.
At the meoment you are doing what you mind and your hands find natural.
Firstly you are probably using the round tipped trowel and spooning the mortar out of the bucket. Right? First thing is to get the mortar onto a flat board so you can collect enough to get a proper amount on the bricks. To get up the mortar to make the bed of mortar on the previous layer of brick use the edge of the trowel to cut yourself a length of mortar from the rest. Use the flat of the trowel to pick it up. Over to the brick and use the trowel along the length of the brick to let this long piece drop off. Tap the brick if you need to make it slide off. Do a few more than you need for the 1 brick say 3 bricks ahead. Now the mortar needs to be shaped and its started to fall over one edge time to shape it. Run the trowel along the inside edge blade at the right angle to get the inside edge thin and the outer thick . Just like puting peanut butter on bread if you keep the knife at 90 degree to the direction of travel you will just bog it down ... Put a slight angle to the blade and easy!!!
Mortar bed done so the bottoms have something to set into now for mortar for the sides. Hold a brick with the edge that needs to be mortared uppermost . Cut yourself a square of mortar on you boards scoop it it up and slap it on the top slide your trowel away by slide along the bottom edge and you end up with a wedge shape of mortar . Now the thick part is the top of the brick as you go to set it gravity well help to make it slide down . Yes you'll drop a few as you do this but that's gravity for you. Butter the brick again and have another go.
Leave that ply in the base as you go it will protect your hearth and at the end just burn it out with your first fires .
Hope this helps
Regards dave

[Bec1208]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Hey Bruce - Are you using an I.T. on your build? You should have the gaps filled with mortar as you go and cleaning the inner faces of the bricks as you go saves a lot of hard work later. Also, having something to stop the gap between the floor bricks and the dome being filled with mortar is good, gaffer tape will work.
I am sure that there are more expert opinions out there but that is my humble 2 cents worth.

It is very satisfying when the dome starts developing and you can see 'real progress'.

Cheers ............. Steve

Thanks for the feedback. I have an IT that I used to lay out the floor and perimeter. I didn't use it for the first two courses (probabably a mistake for the 2nd anyways). I will set it up for the next since I will have to adjust angle of the bricks. I have been working from the wheelchair so could not see the inside face of the bricks as I was laying them, would have helped I think. Tape sounds like a good idea and will use going forward. Bruce

[Greenman]

Re: 36" build in Tallahassee - AKA Bruce's Folly

Hey Bruce - Are you using an I.T. on your build? You should have the gaps filled with mortar as you go and cleaning the inner faces of the bricks as you go saves a lot of hard work later. Also, having something to stop the gap between the floor bricks and the dome being filled with mortar is good, gaffer tape will work.
I am sure that there are more expert opinions out there but that is my humble 2 cents worth.

It is very satisfying when the dome starts developing and you can see 'real progress'.

Cheers ............. Steve