Finally started

[mnl]

Re: Finally started

Gudday
I take it your using the cement sheet so that you don't have to remove it later?

Hi Dave

Yes you are right that it will not come out. In fact there is a section that will never see the light of day again as my base is a square "A" shape. It was suggested to me today I should put a time capsule in there, just need to think what to put in the time capsule. Maybe a Britney Spears or Michael Jackson song, a Queensland 8 in row paper, a picture of the family? Open to other suggestions.

Any I digress, the section that will never see light again is 1,170 x 780mm. I was thinking of using 3 lengths of angle to across this section as well as the perimeter being on blocks should be enough support.

The front section which is open I could do with either ply or cement fibre, thought I would go cement fibre given I have to use that at the back.

Thanks for tha taping tip, I probably would have forgotten that one.

John - I have a fair bit of ply laying around from previous jobs and some planks I can use as support, therefore maybe I should rethink using that for the front section as I agree the fibre cement sheeting is expensive. SWMBO would also be happy for me to use some of the old timber I have laying around.

Got a heap of 12mm reo bar today, some corners and also wire to tie up. Needed a fair bit by the time you put if down a couple of the cores and then a grid in the slab. I have probably gone overkill but would prefer to do that than have not enough hand it fall down.

Mark

[mnl]

Re: Finally started

A couple of photos of my trial stack. This shows the time capsule (the closed bit).

[mnl]

Re: Finally started

Another one

[mnl]

Re: Finally started

Form work ready for slab tomorrow

[david s]

Re: Finally started

If you've not had any bricklaying experience, it is easier to mortar the first course to get it perfectly level then glue the subsequent courses of blocks together with something like Sikabond. It will be quite strong enough as you will be filling some of the cores anyway. I use the odd washer here or there to true up the levels. Once finished the thing can be bagged or rendered.

[mnl]

Re: Finally started

Thanks David. No brick laying experience so will see how I go and might use mortar on first course. With the trial stack, I seem to struggle with some if the tops of blocks not being level and a bit rough which looked like were the casing was when they were poured.

First of two sheets of reo for the base.

[cobblerdave]

Re: Finally started

Gudday
Why a square A stand?
If I could give you something to consider. Why not a H with the two wood stowages on the sides . With your angle iron and 1/2 steel in the slab it will be plenty strong enough. You can never have to many wood stowages. If someone offers you wood you'll take it. I have the stand then a ready use stowage and 1/2 a 6x8 shed full
Just saying as I don't know how the stand fits into its position in your yard
Regards Dave

[david s]

Re: Finally started

Thanks David. No brick laying experience so will see how I go and might use mortar on first course. With the trial stack, I seem to struggle with some if the tops of blocks not being level and a bit rough which looked like were the casing was when they were poured.

First of two sheets of reo for the base.

Yes, you need to knock off those bits or they will stuff up your level. The blocks are tapered on the inside so they will release from the mould. The thicker walls go to the top side. This gives you a wider platform to put on either mortar or adhesive.

[mnl]

Re: Finally started

Dave - the back side is up against the fence, therefore would not be able to access it. I though about a shape like the photo, however it would probably not get used anyway. I also have a slab around the corner that we use as a firewood store for the fireplace as well.

David S - thanks for the tip, I have been putting the thicker part at the top.

[stonecutter]

Re: Finally started

With the trial stack, I seem to struggle with some if the tops of blocks not being level and a bit rough which looked like were the casing was when they were poured.
.

I did a dry stacked block base on one build just to see what it was like, and had the same problem. I had expected it though, masonry units are never perfect. No more dry stacking...if I build another cmu base, every course gets mortared. Unless it's a dry stone base of course.....

You can get yourself a fluted brick rub or use an angle grinder to get rid of high spots. Washers work too, but often times you will create a wobble, requiring more shims.

[silvfox]

Re: Finally started

Dave beat me to the suggestion for a second opening for wood storage. If the back is not accessible the second opening could be on the side. Can't tell for sure from your picture but it looks like one of your form stakes is higher than the 2x4. If so this will get in your way for sqreeding concrete. With the top of the form below surrounding grade you'll want to cut your sqreed board fairly short. Its nice to have all your ducks in row before you pour because concrete does'nt like to wait for you.
John

[cobblerdave]

Re: Finally started

Gudday
Just thought I'd add another trap for the first timer and that's getting that first layer square. It' takes just a minute but run a tape diagonally across the first block layer. Thats measure from corner to corner. If the measurement of those two diagonals aren't the same ,its not square. If you don't adjust it then it will come back later. I know of one good looking build that required 2 days of fancy work to hide the "out of square"in the top tile work.
Regards dave

[mnl]

Re: Finally started

Thanks Dave, John and stonecutter. Keep the hints for first timers coming as that is certainly what I am. I was going to use Pythagoras Pythagoras - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia to check the square.

[stonecutter]

Re: Finally started

Yep...layman's terms (in Imperial numbers) 3'-4'-5' or 6'-8'-10'

Standard way to check square with a tape.

[mnl]

Re: Finally started

What do most people do who are core filling, do you pour the concrete as a continuous pour between the cores and the hearth slab or do you till the cores one day nearly to the top and do the top slab the next day?

My guess is it is better construction technique to do a single pour as will be stronger, but not sure I can get it all done in a day? There will be roe that links both in any case.