I made a version of Steve Opseth's Dome Claw using a 1" metal strapping. It has a little more flex in it put did buy a stick of the 1" flat aluminum which will probably work better when I get to the more vertical bricks on the upper chains. These really work very well and I am using them along with the IT. I marked off the first inch, locked it in the vise and with a hammer beat a 90 in it. Marked off the 4 1/2" and beat a 90 and so on. Cut it off and bent the last 25 degree, approx.
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Starting new build in Dallas
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Here is my IT, very basic but works well. Used a scrap piece of 2 x 4 fur and ripped it down to two pieces 1" x 1 1/2". Not thinking, I had 42" in my head and cut them to make a 42" IT which was an easy fix to cut off so they would make a 21" IT. Any way, picked up two 1/4" x 4" carriage bolts, flat washers, lock washers and wing nuts, cut 5/16s slots for the adjustment, added a small hinge that I had laying around and bent a 90 in a scrap piece of thin metal plate. I also used a piece of 2 x 6 fur which I cut to 4 1/2 x 9 and then put spacers under it to raise it to floor height.
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I cut 10 degree wedges to assist with the tilt and I show the full wedge but ended up cutting them in half. When I laid the first two it seemed there was not much mortar to bond so a wedge about an inch wide seemed plenty. Using the IT worked well and I took wet shop towels to wet the previous chain before laying the next. The "Dome Claw" worked very well also, much thanks to Steve Opseth. Started the forth chain and also part of the inner arch.
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Watch out for joints lining up, IE pic three right side. Stagger bond makes the oven stronger and less chance of solid vertical crack. This can be accomplished by adjusting the width of a few bricks. If you do the adjustments near the front half of the dome, they are not seen when the dome is complete.Russell
Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]
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Working up to the arch using the claw, wedges, and the IT. Finally up to working in the dome wall and the inner arch. Getting this pictured in my mind took a little bit but once I could see it I was able to make some headway. Got all the pieces cut and spaced and then mixed some mud and started laying them. Mixed enough to lay about 3 or 4, didn't want to get too eager.
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Yes, visualizing how a tapered inner arch configuration works in a brain teaser but once you understand, the light bulb goes on and ahhhh. This is one of the most difficult concepts to figure out so Iit looks like you have it dialed in. The top dead center of the arch will be the longest brick in the arch. You are getting to a point where setting a brick or two on the back center half on the next course at the end of the day will give you a solid anchor to work from for the next day.Russell
Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]
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Hey Russell,
Yes the second row for about three bricks are not staggered and once I saw it made the adjustment. That is the only place that this happened so not too worried about it. When I could see the center brick being TDC it all started to come together. Hope to get close to closing it up this weekend.
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Made good progress this past week. Finished the inner arch and cutting in the wall to tie in is a pain. Mark a brick, look at it, remark it, cut it, try to fit it and cut again. But did up above the arch so clear sailing from here. I cannot express how great Steve's Dome claws work. Using the IT to position and then attach the claw.
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You may need to go to 1/3 bricks these last few courses due to the tight diameter.Russell
Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]
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