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Starting new build in Dallas

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  • #46
    Decided to go back and pick up another box is what I intended to say on the previous post.

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    • #47
      OK, so I went back to www.breadstoneovens.com here in Dallas and picked up another box of ceramic blanket, third box. As I said in the previous post, I was about 10sq ft short of having 3" on the entire dome after the second box and for what I have spent another buck and a quarter is not going to matter and I also don't want to skimp on the build so now most of the dome has 4". I used the orange string to hold the blanket in place until I got the chicken wire on and then untied the end and the string was easy to remove. Once the wire was in place I started back on the outside brick wall and the front on the arch landing.

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      • #48
        Started the curing over the weekend, started with this small fire. Temp came up to about 150 and stayed for a few hours. Will not do anymore curing until I finish the chimney but wanted to get a start. First pic is the simple jig I use for cutting the angle on both ends for all the outer wall bricks. Just a piece of 5/8 plywood with a 1x2 screwed to it on an angle. The outer wall forms the buttress where they meet the chimney arch.

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        • #49
          Looking very good!

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          • #50
            Started on the chimney throat and put together the form. Dry laid the bricks to get an idea of how to cut them and hope to get the chimney built up to the top of the arch which is where I will start the SS chimney pipe. I also pickup another load of (250) old Chicago brick, this is about half way through unloading and stacking.

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            • #51
              I was able to get the chimney throat stacked out this past week and once both sides were complete the top was remarkably close to level. I came back with a 4 grinder and cleaned up all the joints but wanted to note the gap between the throat and the dome wall. You can see the lower bricks where I brought the blanket around stopping short to allow for the high temp caulk. I will fill the void with some cutoff strips of blanket where the throat curve starts. Also the anchor plate will be two courses higher than what is shown here.

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              • #52
                The old Chicago bricks and mortar are a very close match to the brick and mortar on our house that was built in 1961.

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                • #53
                  The second pic shows the chimney throat and the 4 stacked bricks that begin the outer arch. With these type of arches (throat and outer) the arch pushes down which forces the stacked bricks to push out so a buttress is needed. The outer wall (old Chicago brick) butts up against the chimney throat forming a buttress which you can see in pic 1. The outer arch will not have any type of buttress so I came up with a solution that I believe will work. I drilled holes in the ends of the fire brick and Chicago making sure the holes lined up. I used 4 Tapcon masonry anchors/screws and then cut the head off. I dry fitted the four bricks on each side using wood strips to get the holes lined up and it took a little bit to get these mortared in but it turned out pretty good and should support the arch.

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                  • #54
                    Question.
                    I have been planning to stuff small strips of ceramic blanket in the gap that I left between the dome and the chimney throat and have been researching high temp caulk to seal it off. If the HT caulk, once brought up to temp, becomes very hard and probably transfers heat, would it be just as efficient to use Heat Stop 50 to fill the void once the blanket strips are inserted?

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                    • #55
                      I am sure that many long time members already know that I am not a real big fan of the "serpentine" flue. There are times when interlocking the corners are not possible. The serpentine is an example of that. In non-refreactory cases i've use wall ties, long screws, and or at least the mortar adhesion to take care of that. My personal rule is, if it will not fall in on itself while drystacked, then it won't fail under a load (or fire in this case). Your sepentine is pretty sharp imo and is of a concern for me. That said, the pins that you are using to transfer the load of the face brick arch to the inner arch may also work to transfer the weight back from a couple of the key elements of your serpentine to the face arch. Is that what you are intending to do?
                      Joe Watson, "A year from now, you will have wished that you had started today"
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                      • #56
                        I picked up some toys to add to the built this past weekend and was able to get it all installed.

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                        • #57
                          I got two 3' sections of double walled 8" pipe, a cap, roof flashing, a rain hood and the pipe ceiling support. It all went in easily and after installed I built my third fire and smoke came out the top, just like it is supposed to.

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                          • #58
                            Started the fourth fire and up over 400. Also good progress on the outer wall.

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                            • #59
                              Fifth fire and more headway on the outer wall.

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                              • #60
                                Okay, the sixth fire and up to full temp. Holding heat without the door, that is next on the list after the brick is complete. But the day after it was still around 400. Baked our first three pies and can tell it will take some practice. At this point on 10/14/2019 I have about 30 brick left to lay and then to trim out the top. I am leaving the brick down about 1 1/2 inch below the pergola and will trim it with thin cedar.

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