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28" Pompeii

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  • #46
    Re: 28" Pompeii

    I completed the dome today. It went much faster as the brick courses decreased in diameter. As you can tell from the photos, I ran out of FB50 and finished with Heatstop50.

    FB50 vs. Heatstop50

    -Heatstop is very creamy and is easy to work, resulting in small, tight joints. FB50 is not creamy, more like wet sand, thus the joints tend to be a bit wider. To completely fill them in you need may need to force mortar into the joint by slicing into it (a putty knife works well) as you spread mortar across the joint. For the Heatstop, just push on the brick and the mortar squeezes throughout the joint. In my opinion this is not a strike against the FB mortar, just a difference.
    -Once the Heatstop-mortared brick is placed, it takes a while for its initial set, so it needs to be supported, especially as the bricks are set more vertically. The FB requires only about a minute (or less) of support, then the indespensible tool can be pulled. Furthermore, the next brick can be forced against the just-set brick with some force and it won't budge; the Heatstop-mortared brick(s) will move if just set, perhaps knocking them out of position.
    -The Heatstop needs quite a bit of misting, especially on a warm day. The FB needed far less.
    -Since I just used the Heatstop today, I cannot yet comment on cracking or bond strength. No cracks anywhere as of yet with the FB50, and its bond strength seem very good (I can't separate my test bricks, even by dropping them on concrete).
    -Heatstop is light-colored; FB is quite dark, like charcoal.
    -Heatstop50: 50lbs for ~$96 sold locally. FB50: 55lbs for ~$89 delivered.

    All in all, I like both products and would use both again. The Heatstop consistency provides for smaller joints, so less is used. The FB, with its coarser sand, holds it position better as you set the brick and sets more quickly. Flip a coin. Either side wins.

    Monday I'll begin the rest of the arch and chimney.

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    • #47
      Re: 28" Pompeii

      Thanks John and Lee

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      • #48
        Re: 28" Pompeii

        More progress today. I completed the outer arch and chimney transition. I have a bit of cleanup to do on the under-sides of the arches where the forms were; I suppose I'll take the grinder to it unless someone has a better method for cleaning hardened mortar. At any rate, my seven day drying clock has started and my curing fires should begin right after that...

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        • #49
          Re: 28" Pompeii

          Gene,

          Nice work on the entryway. Very clean. Your full-width vent is gonna breathe like a champ.
          I use a piece of flat steel that's about the size of a 6" rule to scrape the inside joint mortar excess off.
          John

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          • #50
            Re: 28" Pompeii

            Is that to keep the smoke moving smoothly John?

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            • #51
              Re: 28" Pompeii

              Gene,
              I think once a flue heats up it will draw nicely. But before it does the wider, funnel-shaped vent will gather more smoke that would otherwise drift out he front of the oven.

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              • #52
                Re: 28" Pompeii

                I began curing my oven today. It has been sitting idle for a week or so as I hadn't the time to work on it. The dome temp hovered around 350 degrees F while the small fire burned, but with no oven door yet it cooled quickly. The chimney seemed to draw well, with only a fraction of the smoke exiting the door.
                I've begun the cultured stone facade and metal stud framing, though I can't do too much framing until the oven is cured and insulated; maybe by the weekend. I still have to locate some bulk vermiculite or pearlite to fill the framed portion around the oven; another item on my "to do" list...

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                • #53
                  Re: 28" Pompeii

                  Originally posted by ggoose View Post
                  I still have to locate some bulk vermiculite or pearlite to fill the framed portion around the oven; another item on my "to do" list...
                  Try a concrete block supplier for pearilite or greenhouse supply for pearlite or vermiculite.

                  Should be less than $4.00 cu ft in 3 or 4 cu ft bags.

                  Chip
                  Chip

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                  • #54
                    Re: 28" Pompeii

                    Originally posted by ggoose View Post
                    I began curing my oven today. It has been sitting idle for a week or so as I hadn't the time to work on it. The dome temp hovered around 350 degrees F while the small fire burned, but with no oven door yet it cooled quickly. The chimney seemed to draw well, with only a fraction of the smoke exiting the door.
                    I've begun the cultured stone facade and metal stud framing, though I can't do too much framing until the oven is cured and insulated; maybe by the weekend. I still have to locate some bulk vermiculite or pearlite to fill the framed portion around the oven; another item on my "to do" list...
                    We found bulk vermiculite, usually sold to fill voids in concrete block walls, at a concrete products supplier. Just make sosme calls, the Internet search was unproductive for me. Brand name was Zonolite, it poured into every little sapce with ease. No issues with the reported silicone treatment that makes it move into voids more readily.
                    Lee B.
                    DFW area, Texas, USA

                    If you are thinking about building a brick oven, my advice is Here.

                    I try to learn from my mistakes, and from yours when you give me a heads up.

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                    • #55
                      Re: 28" Pompeii

                      Thanks Chip and Lee; I'll check with my local brickyard.
                      gene

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                      • #56
                        Re: 28" Pompeii

                        Curing update: I've had several fires increasing in intensity now over the past 4 days or so. When I got up this morning to check the oven I found several cracks. I know these things crack, but this is a bit more than I expected. Any thoughts if I should be concerned? Some of these cracks are visible on the inside and outside. I would greatly appreciate any input.
                        Thanks,

                        gene

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                        • #57
                          Re: 28" Pompeii

                          Gene,
                          Thanks for the update and pics. While the linear exterior cracks follow mortar lines, the meandering interior crack really says a lot about the strength and application of your mortar and joints. Hopefully it will be an easy repair and I will be watching closely, because now I'm certain it'll happen to my oven!
                          John

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                          • #58
                            Re: 28" Pompeii

                            Thanks for the quick reply John. So how does one repair such cracks? They seem too small to force mortar into them...

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                            • #59
                              Re: 28" Pompeii

                              Gene,
                              I haven't had to do it (yet) but most posts I've read recommend applying a thin refractory mortar slurry while the crack is still warm and visible. Getting the viscosity right is the trick.
                              Even if you can't get much material into each crack I wouldn't worry about it.

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                              • #60
                                Re: 28" Pompeii

                                Thanks John. I just figured out how to use the search function for these threads () and there was some good info to be found. It seems that grinding a V-cut into the crack and filling it with Fireplace Mortar has been done successfully...that, or just leave it alone. I also saw a quote attributed to James that went: "Embrace your cracks; Enjoy your pizza". Both solutions seem reasonable . Thanks again for your ever-prompt and encouraging replies...

                                gene

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