Texman Build

[Lburou]

Re: Texman Build

...snip...He shows 12" on his, I would have about 4.5", or the depth of the decorative arch would be my landing depth. I think it will work. I could have a granite/or soapstone with a small (maybe 3") overhang if needed.
I plan to cover the oven base with old chicago brick to match the house. I will probably use the old chicago for decorative arch as well. I am still trying to decide about the final enclosure. i have some restrictions on space next to the existing brick of the house. Not sure the about the usefulness of a big landing area? More work area for sure, but that reach gets long as well.

hope to see your build pics soon.
Tracy

That sounds like a good plan. Its good to know where you are going on this project.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

I looked back and I started the kitchen on March 26,2010. So two years later and I am finally building the WFO. I have the first row laid out and everything setup, i hope. It all seems to be coming together at this point. I need some info on the thermal break. Should it be placed at the outside edge of the inner arch or at the outer edge of vent as i have now?

It has been a long way since the blue tape on an empty slab. I need some motivation so i looked back to the beginning pics. The pics here are of the inner arch placement with the IT checking distance from center. I think it looks good, but let me know if anyone sees otherwise.

Tracy

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

I have gotten the arch cut and laid out as well as cut the first two soldier courses. All dry stacked so far. I am working up the nerve to mix the mortar and make it all stick. I think the arch turned out good, i need to make a few tweaks on the inside of the arch to make it pretty. I have a template on posterboard that i will set in the arch to guide my mortar joints and hopefully make the arch uniform with the keystone centered. I am already seeing the bond joints get closer than i like and i am trying to decide if it is worth the trouble to make them uniform.
Some one decided that they needed my tools more than i did. So i use to have well seasoned tools that i could grab without hardly looking, now i have new pretty ones that i have to look for to find in the box all the time. Oh well, part of the journey.
The Huskey 10" blade lasted almost through the arch cuts and first course and then gave up. Thought it would last longer. I have a Dewalt this go-round.
I cut all bricks using the scrap that is removed as my angle guide. Worked well and was easy. i measured the angle for the first cut and marked and then used the piece removed as my guide and made minor tweaks as needed.

[GianniFocaccia]

Re: Texman Build

Tracy,
Nice start on your oven! That's a lot of nice cuts on the inner arch. I love the look of hemispherical arches! Make sure you stagger your dome bricks and you'll be golden. I too went through two or three Husky blades - you just gotta cut slowly and keep your saw water jets clear and flowing. No matter what tool you use, the skill and results come from your heart and hands.

Keep the pics coming.
John

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Thanks John. It should resemble your build, since i think have your thread just about memorized by now. Would you suggest that i make cuts as necessary on the second layer to remain on bond? If so, do you recut all the bricks to remain uniform for the second course or use an odd piece to correct as needed every six bricks or so? I am sure the uniform is the best now that i have asked the question. I thought i would avoid that problem for a while since my first two courses are vertical and the bricks are cut the same (I thought) I will begin the dome curve on the third course. Thanks again for looking and for all the great guidance you left for all of us.

Tracy

[Lburou]

Re: Texman Build

...snip... I thought i would avoid that problem for a while since my first two courses are vertical and the bricks are cut the same (I thought) I will begin the dome curve on the third course. Thanks again for looking and for all the great guidance you left for all of us.

Tracy

Tracy

I don't see the two rings of 'vertical bricks', where are they?

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

I will begin the dome curve on the third course. i did not set the starter course on the end of the brick, as the fb plans say, i decided to lay the first two courses flat instead for stability. I just meant no dome curve for the first two courses. make sense? i tried to mark the photo to explain.

[GianniFocaccia]

Re: Texman Build

If so, do you recut all the bricks to remain uniform for the second course or use an odd piece to correct as needed every six bricks or so?

Don't recut your bricks, just stagger them. When you get an odd-size piece just slide it in and keep going. Gives your oven character. Plus, with each course the circumference tightens and you'll be forced to adjust your brick size. Just don't cut each course at once, rather three or four at a time that you can keep on bond.
John

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

That makes sense. I did cut the whole course and was watching and tweaking the taper cut not watching the bond. Thanks for the tip!

[Lburou]

Re: Texman Build

I will begin the dome curve on the third course. i did not set the starter course on the end of the brick, as the fb plans say, i decided to lay the first two courses flat instead for stability. I just meant no dome curve for the first two courses. make sense? i tried to mark the photo to explain.

I understand now....Using a sailor course is a good decision in my view.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

I have set the first two Sailor (or soldier) courses. Not sure on the terminology.The pic a is my arch template, hopefully it will keep me in line. Pic d is the beginning of the arch transition. I have some small issues to work out there. Pic h is the IT i am using. it is in the shop for modifications. The angle iron is too wide and interferes with the adjacent brick and the clamp throat is too deep and protrudes to interfere with the brick below it. Pic b is of my consideration in using the pieces removed to fill in the gaps as i begin the dome transition. Is this a good idea?
Pic e is of the layout.

[Amac]

Re: Texman Build

The angle iron is too wide and interferes with the adjacent brick and the clamp throat is too deep and protrudes to interfere with the brick below it

Also the shaft should attach at the centre point (top to bottom) of the angle iron. It means that a line through the centre of the brick will point at the dome centre. Yours looks like it is a little low, meaning the brick will "lay back" a bit. Not a major problem - a different design which a lot of people use is just a flat board with a block screwed on underneath and it seems to work OK (it would have the opposite effect) - but having gone to that much trouble why not. There is a cheap quick release clamp which doesn't need screwing to tighten or release - it might be better (Irwin is the make I used).
I would think the use of the slices in the "joints" will not cause any problems other than they might be finicky to mortar in.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Amac

i modified the IT and used it this weekend. I have gone from too low to too high on the center placement. IT is working, but caused me some problems this weekend. I removed several bricks that were mortared the night before because i was convinced they were at the wrong angle. I really think it is the tool not being centered and not having the brick placed properly in the tool. The relief spacer(piece welded to inner side of angle iron) should be at the top of angle iron, that would be better. I think it will work, after this weekend of use. The next layer is lining up good looks like( 2nd pic) thanks for the help!

Tracy
will post progress in a few.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Glad to sit down for a while. Made decent progress this weekend, i think. i learned much this weekend. The real work starts when you start the dome curve. For me, that was the third course. Thank you to Amac for pointing out the problem with the IT. I may make a third revision of that for the next course, but i think it will work either way.

I removed about 8 or 9 bricks and 2 from the arch because i thought that the angle was off. My angle isn't perfect because of the IT problem, but i think maybe a perfect IT centered would change the angle maybe a 1/16". Don't know if that is worth worrying about after laying a "real angled" course. The proof of the tool accuracy is when you start the next course above the previous angled course. If it doesn't line up with the top inner edge of the brick below, the tool is off. That is what happened i thought. that is why i removed the 8 or 9 mortared bricks. What really happened, i think, is that i placed a brick in the IT at the wrong angle and tested the alignment. I then believed my angle was wrong and removed the mortared bricks. I relayed them and did the same test and the alignment was wrong again. then i noticed the brick was not in the tool at the correct angle, which caused the error. Lesson, be sure of your IT before depend on it. Use shims and test alignment on each succeeding course.

I am some what glad i took the bricks apart. I found out what kind of brick layer i am and also that i need to be a better one in places. i also learned the importance of consistent mortar mix, moist bricks and compression of the mortar joints to remove voids. I am using Alsey flue set and the mortar needs to be used within 15 minutes of mixing, after 15 minutes, the mortar will not compress to achieve consistent mortar joints. As a newbie, i think i should have mixed some test batches and then taken them apart to see what a good joint looks and feels like. now i know at least more than i did. some joints were only bonded on one side(dry brick below) is suspect. pic wfo1, wfo2, wfo4, wfo5.
I relaid the removed bricks and cut the remainder for that course. pic wfo6
It is exhausting working on the rear of this oven! no room and i have to get in the oven to get comfortable reach. i am spraying the layer blow with water as i go, since i cant dip those bricks in water after they are set. they need to be moist just like the brick you are setting. keep bricks moist and use consistent mortar! (drink beer in between mortar batches)

Tracy

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

more pics
pic 7 course three laid. Fighting the bond joints. So much to keep up with.
brick alignment, bond alignment, mortar mix, dont move the brick you just set, dont let the mortar dry out, make a pretty oven (drink beer)

pic 8 ready for the next course

elsa-new german shepherd puppy. i am as tired as she is!
Tracy