Texman Build

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

That bar is looking good! You hard troweled, right? Did you use the Buddy Rhodes approach from his youtube video?

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Thanks DJ. Yes it is a troweled finish. I used normal sandpaper on my orbital sander and water from a spray bottle and smoothed it for about an hour in total after it set. Some 100 grit and 220 grit paper. I put the paper on to cover the holes in the orbital sander so it wouldn't suck the muck into the sander. It ruins the paper in about 15-20 minutes, but they are cheaper than the diamond pads. I think it just helped to smooth it some.
I did watch Buddy and tried to follow his method of hard troweled. I wanted them a little darker, but it is fine. Probably better that it is lighter so it doesn't get so hot from the sun.

Waiting on materials gives too much time to think.

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

I got the diamond pads from amazon for about $40. Much cheaper than the getting them from the specialty concrete places.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Just when you think you have all the "suck-work" done, you get a nice wake up call. Installing a steel frame ceiling and covering with concrete board over a big ass brick oven covered with the nastiest insulation around, with about 12" of room, and trying to get screws to penetrate those metal studs while holding that ceiling board and laying on that insulation sucks. Glad that is over. I did manage a 1 5/8" air gap between the wood roof joists and the concrete board ceiling. Just trying to make it as safe as i can. And, did i mention the "fun" of that back wall that had to go in as one piece with the board attached? no way to attach that board back there next to the brick of the house, but i have an 1" air gap there too. That metal frame was really fun next to the bar too, had to do one stick at a time and screw together in place. Enough bitchin', just need to get the board on now and figure out the oven landing and how to cover above the arch. This was definitely one of those jobs that would have been easier without the bar and kitchen being there. You know you married well when they help you do crap like this. If all goes well, the oven will be totally encased in the steel and concrete enclosure. So 6" of blanket, vermiculite and steel studs and concrete board will hopefully contain the heat. The tarp is there just to contain the insulation and will be removed. one side next to ceiling is good, the other not so good. Have some work there and hoping i can come up with a way to cover with the stucco layer. Like a crown molding out of stucco. probably gonna get a pro for the stucco too. Afraid of what i might do with stucco.
Tracy

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Texman Build

shsssh!! must be a Houdini to work in those tight quarters......

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

Looking good Tracy.

In my experience, hardieboard is much easier to work with than the concrete board. Cuts better, doesn't crumble, holds a screw a bit better. The concrete board is stiffer but if you haven't bought it all, you might want to think about using hardie for the sides.

Looking at your install, I think it would look really cool if it was tiled - especially given that it is all under cover so water isn't an issue. Thought about anything like that?

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

thanks DJ
I used hardiboard on the back next to the brick. I have 2 4x8 sheets of 1/2" permabase for the walls. I really like working with the hardiboard better than the permabase, it is stiffer and easier to cut and holds screws much better. My only concern is the hardiboard isn't really recommended for exterior use. But since i am under cover, it would have worked for me and i wish i had used it for this part. But the permabase is rated for exterior use so, it should be good.

i thought about tile, but hadn't seen a build that i liked using tile. What are you thinking?
Color, size etc. ? Got a pic that you have seen maybe? I looked at some marble, but it is so light colored that i didn't know if it would look good. Thanks for the suggestion too.

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

Ah - I used the hardieboard smooth siding - not the shower stuff. It comes in 4 x 8 sheets, the other stuff is only 5 x 3 IIRC. Since it's siding, I assumed it was outdoor rated, but i actually never checked

As for tile - I couldn't find any good pictures of all tile ovens - but I did find this, which would be kinda cool. Stucco + tile. Would fit your decor well

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

that is cool! So not a total tile veneer, but work some tile/stone in there as border. I like that. I was trying to think of a way to break up the large stucco walls visually. I started to make some recess areas on the walls, but decided it was too much trouble and might look weird. I will do some looking around. Thanks!

[Gulf]

Re: Texman Build

that is cool! So not a total tile veneer, but work some tile/stone in there as border. I like that. I was trying to think of a way to break up the large stucco walls visually. I started to make some recess areas on the walls, but decided it was too much trouble and might look weird. I will do some looking around. Thanks!

Also, you might think about using some of the "old chicago" to to sort of build a "wainscoat" up to the mantle heigth, and maybe from there up do a (brick corner/stucco fill) simular to what brickie did on his fireplace with a (stone corner/brick fill).

The "old chicago" could be cut to 3/4" to 1" thick on your brick saw and attached like stone with thin set to your cement board. I got two face bricks per whole brick on my stand using this method.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

How much vermiculite to fill the oven enclosure? I have mixed and filled 16 cu ft of 10:1 vcrete and i am maybe half way there. I forgot to block off the corners, so probably wasted a 4 cu ft there. I think i am going to get 16 cu ft more and just form it as i go to try and get around a 4" layer over the rest of the dome. I plan to mix a 5:1 with some sand to buttress the vent arch as suggested as well. I already have 5" plus of blanket on the dome, so i think i am past overkill on insulation anyway. Any thoughts? I thought the 16 cu ft was plenty to finish.
I don't have a pic right now, but will post one later and edit this post. I poured the concrete for the area in front of my oven entrance and finally got all the metal frame for the enclosure done. SO just vcrete, concrete board, decorative arch, and decorative landing work,and LEARN how to Cook in the WFO.
Tracy

[david s]

Re: Texman Build

Tracey,
It is too late now, but if you are doing an enclosure it is better to add the vermiculite loose. When you add cement and water to the mix you will have added about one third of the volume of vermiculite in water. That is a lot of water to eliminate. Make sure that there is adequate ventilation in the enclosure so the water vapour can escape.

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

I wouldnt worry about the vermiculite unless you feel any heat escaping past the blanket (which I doubt you do). It's probably completely unnecessary with 5" of blanket.

Edit: Note that I had planned to use vermiculite on my oven, but found that even with a roaring fire, the outside of my insulation was same as ambient temperature. Saved myself some time and $

[david s]

Re: Texman Build

If you have 30 cu ft of vermicrete then you have about 10 cu ft of water in that layer. If it is all sealed up then it will take a very long time to dry it out. It won't harm your oven but it will probably make your blanket moist and reduce its insulating capacity. As you have no outer concrete shell there is not a problem of damaging it. I'd be more concerned about mould growth and perhaps rusting of the steel enclosure frame. With so much blanket the heat of the oven will hardly be heating the vermicrete layer.

[Gulf]

Re: Texman Build

Tracey,
Form in where ever possible. I think that you can use hardiboard or a simular product. As the width of your fire box/smoke chamber/transition decreases: step in it in to where you have only about 3" of vcrete at the widest point of your transition to the flu. I have only 2", but it is formed inside of two inches of brick. 3 " of vcrete should support your transition sufficiently. Leave the rest for loose fill if you want, but don't add that until you believe that your vcrete is dry. I would find some way of keeping air flowing (when not cooking) inside the chimney and inside the enclosure for the rest of this low humidity fall wather.