Texman Build

[Tscarborough]

Re: Texman Build

Texman, I just looked at your photos. You have very tight joints, but some potato chips too. It is no problem with your joint widths, just cut 2 or 3 to fit the space instead on chipping one.

[Tscarborough]

Re: Texman Build

The course below absolutely dictates the next, that is why you have to be consistent in sizing and not end up with chips (units smaller than 25% of a full unit).

It is better to cut as you go, maintaining bond on the head joints, and planning ahead as you move to your closer. For arches, cut the brick on each side and level across as you bring it up, then cut your closer (keystone) to fit. Again, watch your brick size for the last 2 brick on each side of the arch to make sure your keystone will be appropriately sized.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

only set two bricks, but very glad to have them set. i think i am good to go on the sixth course now.

Gulf
Thanks for taking the time to explain the level. I used the one i have and it works good enough to see if you are true across the arch. You had a great idea with that rotating laser. Not sure i will spring for one now, but that is the ticket for building WFOs.

Tscar
Thanks for the input and expertise that you always bring. The bond is a constant battle for me and most builders i think. The course below dictates a lot of what you have to do on the next for me.
Tracy

[Tscarborough]

Re: Texman Build

"If you really want the spacing to be uniform, I found I had to work from one side all the way around. Working from both sides, that middle brick never turned out right. "

The secret is that it doesn't matter if you work from both sides or not, but when you have the opening down to the width of 4 bricks, you measure and divide it into 4 and cut those four into equally sized units. They will be nearly full sized and indistinguishable from full size brick.

If you want the coursing to be correct, i.e. vertical joints not stacking, then you will need to cut every third or fourth brick as you move up towards the top and it will naturally end with a full or nearly full size closer (the last brick).

[Gulf]

Re: Texman Build

Tracy,
I went back and edited my original post about the laser level and included a pic of mine. It is the only laser level that I have ever worked with. I did not think about there being so many different types available. I had thought when I was reading your build that you were too close to finishing for one to be worth buying, but you had already purchased it.
I wish now that I had of taken more pics, but I was experimenting and trying to beat the rains.
Sorry about the confusion.

[Amac]

Re: Texman Build

Dennis

That's just about exactly what I ended up doing as well. And better said with pictures.

great minds I guess - btw the pics are a bit out of chronological order - nr 1 should be nr 3.

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

That's just about exactly what I ended up doing as well. And better said with pictures.

[Amac]

Re: Texman Build

Tracy
Not intending to confuse by adding more advice. Unlike Dennis I never attempted to coincide the top of the arch wih the top of a row so was not surprised when there was an inch or so to spare. This is how I got over the arch.
http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/8/39...tml#post127903
I cut the pointed and narrowing ends off two bricks at the sides and two sliced half bricks - very slightly wedge shaped to fit between them. It seemed to work well but maybe not if I had less than an inch for the middle bits.

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

Ah, I remember that $#@^& brick!

My $0.02 (and what I did) was start with the brick next to it, work all the way around the dome, and then tackle the arch connecting bricks last. Somehow, they just made more sense when I could see what they were going to connect to. IIRC, I had made a slight miscalculation (my only one, I swear! ) and ended up having that course just over the top of the arch by maybe an inch - but I was able to cut the bricks much more quickly when the shape of the hole was quite clear.

[banhxeo76]

Re: Texman Build

Tracy,

You are doing a great job with your WFO as to date. I just finished reading your thread and I was in disbelief that you disassebled your WFO and started again. If there is a "come back" award for this forum, you should have it. Heck, the award should be named after you.

I just want to add a few cent in regard to your I.T. I just so happen to use the same alsey fire brick as you for the dome (I used whitacre greer brick for the floor) and you will be very glad that you choose to go with alsey because it is a great firebrick because I have not seen any crack on my brick after three months of using it. During my build, I noticed that the 2.5" thickness firebrick is usually off between 1/16" to 3/32" which may cause the slightly unlevel course. However, that is why the mortar is your friend because the mortar will make the difference in the joints. You will just have to accept the fact that some mortar joints will be slightly bigger/smaller than other. In addtion to using your IT, I would recommend you using a Level Pitch and Slope Locator so that you can that use it as a guide to help you be consistent with degree and and be level with the course.

After saying all of that, it won't be 100% prefectly level to the "T" because of the brick is not prefectly square and made prefectly. So, try not to get too stress out and spend too much time on getting it level prefectly. I can assure that your first attempt of building WFO is more level than 99% of the WFOs than what is out there (including mine ). You are doing a great job!

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

I tried to cut the brick next to arch for the sixth course last nite and ended up with nada to use. It is such a flat angle on my build. I looked at the masters builds and their sixth course didnt have such a flat angle, but i am not concerned, just looking for guidance. I think the brick will have to be more than a 1/2 brick, because the cut angle seems to be diagonal of the brick and that is causing me to remove so much that the brick is less than 2.5" thick (droop issues) if that is the way to go, i can move the brick higher on the arch and cut less off of the adjacent brick.

I think i have the wrong laser level. I got one of those picture hanger specials with a stud finder. it projects a beam around the dome, but not good enough to rely on. Stanley 20' Beam Cross-Line Laser Level
Item #: 253310 | Model #: 253319 at lowes.

Tracy

[Gulf]

Re: Texman Build

Tracy,
If you are going to use the laser level you will probably need to set a brick on bond in each of these locations.

These two brick set with the I.T. are what I used to get the reference points from which to set the level. They both should be the same but I set one on each side to be sure. I then used the level and I.T. in combo to tie in to the dome. Then back to the refence bricks and from there just used the I.T. to lay toward the back of the dome. But not so far as to obsure the levels line of sight.

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

If you really want the spacing to be uniform, I found I had to work from one side all the way around. Working from both sides, that middle brick never turned out right. Somewhere around where you are now, I decided I had to bite the bullet and deal with a few aligned joints because it was getting to be such a pain in the butt to deal with cutting every brick.

I get your point on the spendy mortar. I used one $85 bag of HS50 before I switched over to homebrew. I think I spent about $50 total on that for the rest of the oven. I really can't say that I saw much difference given my amateur bricklaying skills.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

just to save mortar, really. I have 150# of the alsey mortar and by the time i pd shipping to replace the one i wasted on the rebuild, it came to $100/bag to order one at a time. So, trying to make sure i have enough. i just opened my second bag. I also learned during my deconstruction of the oven that the tighter joints had a lot stronger bond than the larger joints. May be because the larger joints hadn't fully cured and the smaller were more cured, not sure. Also, the smaller joints are easier to manage to me. The larger the mortar joint, the more the brick wants to move after i set it. The smaller joint squeeze is more predictable to me also. when i have a large joint, i tend to over pressure to push mortar out and have to start over on the bond because i pushed to far. The wedges are quick because i just use the pieces removed from the brick course i just set and break them in half basically. I like the look on the exterior(like anyone will ever see that)
I think you are right about the cuts. I am gonna set my bricks next to arch, and then get the uniform cut going, and fill in the gap between uniform and first arch brick, i hope.
I have been trying to set 2, no more than 3 bricks at a time. i alternate from opposite sides of the oven so as not to disturb the brick just set. My mortar time is 15 minutes and that is about all i can set with any accuracy in 15 minutes.
Tracy

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

Looking good Tracy. Very level and uniform.

On the brick cutting, I found that the more non-standard sized bricks I used on a level, the harder it was to get the gaps right on the next one. And then harder still on the one after that. If I had it to do all over again, I'd only use the small bricks at the arch joints and make everything else even. But hindsight... I only figured out the right formula to use for the side angles on the last 2 courses!

Surprised to see you are still using the wedges. Seems like an extra step for each level. Is that to save mortar?