Randy's dreams do come true oven build

[ivancito]

No hardware was used. You just cut the studs and set them in to the track and screw it in on atleast one side. Other than that it is pretty much like wood framing. So when you buy your studs make sure to get enough of the same size track to go around the top and bottom of your enclosure, and get it in the same gage too. As for the roof I used a few kinds of self tapping screws to hold it down. I went threw every rafter and the top track with tec screws or a different kind of self tapper. When you go to buy your studs make sure to get the screws from them they are a lot better than what you will get at home depot or menards. As to how I attached it to the base I shot it down with a Ramset gun and 3\4" nails. You could do pretty much anything but I had that and went for it. And after the stone is on it is not going anywhere. If you have any questions just ask and I will do my best to answer them

Randy

Randy, Awesome job with your oven. I see you used the ramset gun to secure the metal track. Did you have any damage from the hearth craking from the impact, I also own a ramset gun and just might use it to secure my track also. What color shot did you use?
thanks
Ivan

[thomasmn]

I found a few more pictures that I did not post before. It might show you a little more detail. If you have any questions just let me know and I will do my best to answer them.

Randy

Nice. Thanks! I think I will try to attach the track with lead shields and bolts with a washer. I may also try to bolt the roof to the frame for extra security. Spent the night researching how I want to build the roof!

[RandyJ]

For Ivan I think I used yellow shots. The red would be to much I think, but you might have to try a few and see what works for you. As for blowing out the edge as long as you are a few inches in it should not be a problem.

Thomas the oven is looking great. Yeah whatever you want to do to secure the track should be fine. With the 18 gage make sure to predrilled holes where you are going to Hamer drill the holes for the anchors. As it probably won't get through the steel very easy. Do you have a drawing of what you are planning to build? Keep up the good work. I can't wait to see it.

Randy

[thomasmn]

For Ivan I think I used yellow shots. The red would be to much I think, but you might have to try a few and see what works for you. As for blowing out the edge as long as you are a few inches in it should not be a problem.

Thomas the oven is looking great. Yeah whatever you want to do to secure the track should be fine. With the 18 gage make sure to predrilled holes where you are going to Hamer drill the holes for the anchors. As it probably won't get through the steel very easy. Do you have a drawing of what you are planning to build? Keep up the good work. I can't wait to see it.

Randy

Why of course.. and yes I will hopefully post a build thread after I am done here with my contribution to the forum perhaps being the project plan I used to get this done as quickly as possible!

[RandyJ]

That looks nice. It should be a little easier to build than mine as you don't have the funky 45 degree angle to deal with. If you have help to lit the roof you should be able to knock that out in a few hours or so. I built my roof on the ground and lifted it up in one piece and set it in place. I can't wait to hear how it goes.

Randy

[deejayoh]

Nice. Thanks! I think I will try to attach the track with lead shields and bolts with a washer. I may also try to bolt the roof to the frame for extra security. Spent the night researching how I want to build the roof!

Tapcons are easier and will hold better than lead shields. Plus you don't have to drill as big of a hole.

[thomasmn]

Tapcons are easier and will hold better than lead shields. Plus you don't have to drill as big of a hole.

That makes it an easy decision. Already had some 2 1/4 x 3/16 tap cons that I was going to mount the chimney adapter with. How far would you make the spacing? Every foot? 6"?

[RandyJ]

I would do more that every foot. But every 6" seams a bit much, but I would say something in that area should be good. Did you get started on cutting any studs? You will not be able to cut the 18 gage with a tin snips. I used a 4.5" grinder with a cutting wheel. That worked nicely .

Randy

[thomasmn]

I would do more that every foot. But every 6" seams a bit much, but I would say something in that area should be good. Did you get started on cutting any studs? You will not be able to cut the 18 gage with a tin snips. I used a 4.5" grinder with a cutting wheel. That worked nicely .

Randy

I got in the track today for the bottom before a bit of rain hit here and I called it a night. The tapcons seem a bit finicky as I've had a few of the heads snap off. I had to go back and get some new ones as the 2 1/4 was not the correct size. Managed to get a fire going earlier and I have a thermocouple embedded in the floor which is the 3rd temperature in the picture here. The top temp is the top of the dome, second is middle of the dome, 3rd floor, 4th by the supervent adapter in the vent. I can't really start more of the framing until have the oven cured more as I need to caulk with high temp caulking and put the blanket on. Too much rain in the forecast though

[deejayoh]

yeah, 3/16 x 2 1/4 are pretty long and skinny. Not surprised the heads were snapping off. 1/4 x 2" is probably a better size

[RandyJ]

Thomas have tou insulated yet? I know that opinions are all over the place but I am in favor of insulation before curing. You seam to get less bad cracks, or at least don't know they are there. So I would be careful as to how warm you get the dome till you insulate it. I would agree with DJ 1\4"x2" tap cons sound like a better size. I hope you can avoid the rain I know there is a lot in the forcast. Good luck.

Randy

[UtahBeehiver]

The key is that the oven is completely dry before you insulate. I have seen both ways before or after cure pros and cons to both. David S suggest placing a piece of plastic over the dome and see if water condenses on a warm day if so you still have water in the build. I surprising how long it takes to get water out of a build.

[thomasmn]

I think I agree with waiting to insulate until the dome is dry, but that puts me off a bit longer which I guess I'm okay with.

One observation I made during the first curing fire here was that even if the inside of the bricks facing the dome were very warm (300-400F) even just half an inch to an inch below the surface the bricks were fairly cold (90-100F) in the top and middle of the dome. The vent I had just finished on Sunday actually got up to 150F. I would have expected the bricks in the dome to have gotten hotter as they probably have less moisture than the ones in the vent. I had to get 1 3/4" tap cons as that is the longest size that you can embed fully according to their instructions. I still had a few of those snap off as well, but at least it went a little better.

With the rain starting at 11 I may just play around with casting a 2 3/4" thick concrete landing "counter" tonight.

[thomasmn]

I did a fairly good fire today and figured out my problem with the dome probe - it wasn't all the way into the stainless enclosure. Immediately the temperature went closer to 200F. So while I think the right thing is to wait until the dome is completely dry to insulate.. my time is running out so I am planning to insulate the dome tomorrow so I can get going on the enclosure. I picked up the last of my 18 gauge steel today for the roof so I have everything I need.

[thomasmn]

Can't thank you enough for documenting your build here Randy! I managed to get a roof on the thing before the storms the next two days! Design is heavily inspired by yours