Block Stand Question - Pompeii 42"

[UtahBeehiver]

Yeager,

I did polished concrete with embedded glass. You start with 50 grit diamond pads and progressively work up to 400 grit. I would be cautious using a regular orbital sander with water without some type for GFI protection. I used a Hardin wet polisher that was variable speed (essential) that had GFI protection as part of the cord. There is a YouTube video by Cheng that gives you a good understanding of the concrete counter polishing process. The process takes several days and like curing you have to be patient for the best results.

[RandyJ]

Russell brings up a good point. No madder what route you take you need GFCI protection. I should have mentioned that. I also would say a real polisher is the best route but it can be done with a RO sander.

Randy

[Yeager]

Yup - I have everything outside GFCI covered! I use to build swimming pools and totally agree with the importance!

[Yeager]

Latest picture during my 3rd Curing fire. I was able to get it up to 390-400 degrees and hold for a couple hours. My plan is to add the insulation for the remaining fires. I am really happy with the new "charcoal" countertop. I ordered the polish sandpaper randy recommendation yesterday. Appreciate everyone's help and guidance!

[Yeager]

Hey Guys,
Getting ready to work on my steel frame and have a few questions:

1) Did you use plywood on the roof or Durock? How did you attach to steel frame if it was plywood?

2) I noticed you had your "studs" for the roof running left / right (width) versus front / back. My natural thought with a 18-24" overhang in the front would be to go front / back studs - or is there something I might be missing?

3) How are you protecting the edge on the roof? Is that a vinyl facia piece or how is the exposed (plywood) edge protected?

thanks!
Yeager

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager. I used 5\8" plywood on the roof of my oven. I used a type of self tapping screws ment to go from wood to metal. I can take a picture of them later for you if you want. You sure can run the studs front to back. I did mine side to side as I thought it worked better for me that way but the other way is just fine and probably stronger for what you are looking to do. As for the edge protection it is a aluminum pice that is powder coated for roof edgeing. I can send you some pictures when I get home. If you have any more questions let me know.

Randy

[Yeager]

Hi Randy,
Thanks! I am guessing I can find that aluminum edge at menards/home depot now that I know what to look for! For the roof fasteners Is this similar to what you used?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Teks-10-1...1380/100160285

I am thinking about how to attach the roof to the walls and starting to wonder if I should have the roof studs go left/ right so they attach on every stud flush on the angle. (I am assuming you don't try to angle the front/back top of the wall)?

For electrical, I believe I need to use individual THHN wires inside of the grey conduit, but after I get that to a light/outlet can I run to the other locations in the unit with romex running through studs (i.e. with gromets)?

thanks,
Yeager

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager yes those are the same screws that I used. They worked great I recommend them. Also the edgeing I got at menards. I will put up a picture, but make sure to get the biggest one's you can find. As to the direction of the rafters that is why I ran mine the way I did. If you want to strengthen it a little more you could tack a wooden stud to the side of the track for the roof framing. That would stiffen it up some more.

As to the wire you can run Romex in a conduit but it needs to conform to wire fill per conduit size. It only counts a one wire because it is a cable . So you might need a 3\4 " conduit to fit it. So THHN is just easier to deal with. And you could then use romex in grommets or if it is not to much work you could do it with the conduit then if something happens you could change or replace the wires or add something. Just a thought and I don't want to make it harder for you.

Randy

[Yeager]

Thanks Randy! I feel pretty confident on everything but the roof. I am a big guy and don't want to have to climb up there! I think I should be able to do most of it from ladders on the side - but we'll find out!

I am planning a 24" rough overhang in front, 6" on sides/back. Does that seem reasonable?

thanks,
Yeager

[RandyJ]

I think that will be just fine for a overhang. As to the sides you might want a little more depending on what you are doing for the stone veneer. I think I had a foot and now it is down to like 8"or so. Because you have your cement board, scratch cote if you go that route, mortar, and stone. So it adds up and eats in to the overhang. If you have help you can build the roof on the ground and then lift it up and set it in place. That is how I did mine and it worked great. Keep posting pictures and I will let you know if I see anything wrong.

Randy

[Yeager]

Thanks Randy - I am guessing when you mean you built the roof on the ground you did the studs and plywood, then cut the hole for flue, put the water membrane, and shingles up in the air? (I would think getting the flue exactly correct would be hard with the angles?)

[RandyJ]

You are correct. If you build the roof on the ground then it is much easier to assemble it. The framework for the roof will probably weigh about 100# or so maby a little more. Then once it is up and squared and secured then put on the plywood. Make sure you leave a little room for a facia on top of the steel studs under the plywood. I also moved the last steel studs in a little so I could cut the track vertically and then put in a wooden stud.

Randy

[Yeager]

Hi Randy,
So I thought I'd start by fastening down my track on the floor and "stick" in the studs, but I realized that i won't be able to reach both sides of the studs due to clearance to put in the self taping screw. did you build each wall separate and then fasten down or did you just fasten from the inside?

thanks!
Yeager

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager. No you do not need to screw both sides in. Most of my build only has a screw on one side. If you can get another in on some great but otherwise don't worry about it. In construction sometimes they only put in one screw per stud. If you can get 2 on the top go for it, but it eill be fine as well with one. The roof you will want screwed on both sides. Good luck. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

Randy

[Yeager]

Thanks Randy! I owe you a cold 12 pack of your choice!

For connecting the walls at corners do I need to get longer screws to connect them or buy some sort of connector plate? I would imagine thats where a lot of the strength comes from, but its my first time working with steel studs.

thanks,
Yeager