Block Stand Question - Pompeii 42"

[JRPizza]

Yeager, your screen shot is so small I can't make out any detail, even if I try to magnify it.

[Yeager]

somethings weird going on with fornobravo site. It is only storing/viewing a thumbnail. Attached is the image saved as a PDF! Hopefully this works better.

[admin]

Testing

[admin]

Yeager,

We just completed the migration to the new server, so you may have been in the middle of that - I posted a test above and the thumbnail opens to the larger image. Please let me know if you have any other issues.

Mitch

[RandyJ]

Hey Yeager I think you plan looks nice. Looks like you have planned for a 1.5" revel. That would work nice with a 1 " flange on the door. How much insulation did you decide to go with under the oven? I can't wait to see your oven go togather.

Randy

[Yeager]

Hi Randy,
Thanks for the comments! I am going with 2 - 2" Insulation Boards. I would prefer to have one of them be foam glas (avoid any moisture issues), but can't find anyplace to source in the Twin Cities (without paying for major shipping!). Am thinking of putting plastic liner between insulation boards and the concrete stand. I would go with your block approach, but am already pretty high (I went with 5 block height stand). I did toy with the idea of putting down insulated brick instead of one of the insulation boards (still can!) - thoughts?

thanks,
Yeager

[the Beagle]

to Yeager,
Smith-Sharpe Fire Brick Supply at 2129 Broadway St NE has insulation board suitable for placing beneath the oven structure. I bought some last week. It is a bit pricey but eliminates your shipping issue as being available locally. Call Susan at 612 331 1345

[Yeager]

Hi Beagle,
I did buy the traditional insulation board from Smith-Sharpe (They are great to work with), but that product is not very happy about moisture. The idea behind the foam glas is that it elevates the insulation board so it doesn't wick in. I can get close to the same effect by placing thick plastic between the insulation board and the concrete stand, but having it a couple inches in the air under foamglas (which is not moisture sensitive) would be cool design.

thanks,
Yeager

[gastagg]

This is a link to a company in Farmington, MN that sells refractory products. I bought my blanket insulation there and they told me they could get any product needed for a wood oven.

[thomasmn]

This is a link to a company in Farmington, MN that sells refractory products. I bought my blanket insulation there and they told me they could get any product needed for a wood oven.

Ohhh, I'm going to have to call them. I'm about ready to start my build and was sweating fire blanket/board/bricks. That would be right down the street from me.

[Yeager]

Got back at my pizza dome this weekend! The weather was fairly cooperative. I was looking at canopies to help provide shade/protection from rain and they all were about $140-$350 and didn't look like they would last through any storm. So I just built one that was solid for about 65! (plus a heavy duty tarp). The 12x12 structure can be moved to follow me as I finish my outdoorkitchen project!

The HF Saw worked great!

I think I am going to use a full length solider since I am not having it rest on the floor. Should I put mortar underneath the soliders or juston the sides?

Lastly, I did something a little different (I'll post some pictures later. I used 2.5" Insulating Brick on my first layer, then 2" of Insulation Board. That way if there is any moisture that would seep in on the concrete stand it wouldn't get to the insulation board. The guy at Smith Sharpe ran a simulation with a 800 degree oven with medium duty firebrick and various configurations to show what the estimated temperature would be touching the concrete stand. I was really impressed that they went the extra mile to help put some science behind selecting material. I went with #7 below!

Scenario 1:
2.5" Medium Duty Brick
3.0" Insulation Board
142 Degrees

Scenario 2:
2.5" Medium Duty Brick
2.0" Insulation Board
160 Degrees

Scenario 3:
2.5" Medium Duty Brick
5.0" Insulated Brick
177 Degrees


Scenario 4:
2.5" Medium Duty Brick
4.5" Insulated Brick
183 Degrees


Scenario 5:
2.5" Medium Duty Brick
.25 Insulated Paper
2.5" Insulated Brick
201 Degrees


Scenario 7:
2.5" Medium Duty Brick
2.5" Insulated Brick
2.0" Insulation Board
147 Degrees


Scenario 8:
2.5" Medium Duty Brick
2.5" Insulated Brick
223 Degrees

Scenario 9:
2.5" Medium Duty Brick
3.0" Insulated Brick
210 Degrees

Scenario 10:
2.5" Medium Duty Brick
3.0" Insulation Board
142 Degrees

Scenario 11:
2.5" Medium Duty Brick
2.0" Insulation Board
160 Degrees

[RandyJ]

That is cool that they could help you out like that. I was very impressed with everyone at Smith sharpie. Even though my project was tiny they still treated me like I was a contractor. If I ever have to build another one I will seal their advice.

You can do the full length solider it won't really hurt anything. I opted to do a half height one on mine. I also cut the angle in to the brick to make it easier. You won't need the extra height at the side in the 42" that the full height solider gives you. It also weakens the dome just a little. But yes just mortar through bricks togather and not to the floor. The dome just sits on the insulation.

Keep up the good work.

Randy

[Yeager]

Thanks Randy! I would go with the half soldier, but in the spreadsheet from the other spreadsheet it says the angles wont be right unless the soliders are above the IT pivot. I have 3/4" plywood and the IT Pivot is about 1 1/2" above the plywood - so 2.25" above the floor which would be 1/4" inch higher than the solider.

Did you shave the sides off the soliders or buy the tapered ones? I noticed Smith Sharpe sells the 2 1/2 -> 1 3/4" firebrick that would work slick.

Also, to come up with the appropriate angle atop of the soldiers to I just hold up my IT to it and scribe the angle - and then cut?


thanks!

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager how is it going. I didn't use any of the dome spreadsheets. I looked at them but did not understand what they were saying. So I just winged it. For the angle on the solider course I pulled a string from the center of the dome to the outside of the brick crossing in the middle of the brick so both halves were the same. My angle was wrong but not to much. If you clamped a brick to your IT tool that would give you the proper angle. But the more I think about it it is now really necessary. A flat top should be just fine. As for the tapered bricks unless they are about the same price I would not bother with it. I just used flat bricks and filled the gaps in with mortar. I used a lot of mortar. Don't be afraid of it as it is your friend.

Randy

[Yeager]

Thanks Randy! Now I have to make a decision on whether to use the refractory mortar (see link below) or homebrew mortar. I have 2 bags of the refractory mortar, but am now paranoid about some people indicating that product could crack if thicker than 1/8".