Block Stand Question - Pompeii 42"

[JRPizza]

Yeager, I had some trouble with bricks when I got near the top and was starting to get frustrated, but then I got on a roll and things went pretty well. Here is what I did. Bricks had to be dry(ish), not waterlogged. I mixed up some fairly wet mortar, and wiped the brick and mating bricks on all contact surfaces with a wet sponge (just enough to see about 1/8 inch of color change). If I didn't see a color change the bricks had too much water already. I buttered up a brick and used the IT to set it into position, quickly wiping off the excess mortar. After maybe a minute to a minute and a half (about the time it took to butter the next brick) I repeated the process. My IT was mounted such that I could remove it without knocking the brick loose, but only if I did it right after I set the brick (hold it with one hand while freeing up the IT bracket). With this method I was able to finish off each row, then allowed them to sit overnight where they were firm enough to start the next row. Some have had good luck with setting a single brick overnight, when I tired that it ended up thunking down on the floor when I tried to place the first brick in the morning. I also could not let the bricks set too long before I laid the next brick or the previous one would fall. I had the best adhesion with the wet mortar just after they started to grab. I found when I got a row in quick they seemed to support each other, and in these upper rows the bricks are pretty much straight up and down. If the bricks are too wet, or mortar too dry, I could not get them to stick when I tried to place adjacent bricks. If I had to jostle a brick after it set for more than a minute or so it would fall. Working quickly with "grabby" mortar did the trick for me.

[thomasmn]

Hey All,
I am on row 10 of 11 (then keystone) and having trouble keeping bricks from falling. I even set one overnight and as I tried setting one against it it fell off!

I've heard of many techniques (exercise balls inflated, fill dome with sand, etc).. What do you suggest? I am really wanting to get the keystone in this weekend, but feeling a little intimidated!

thanks,
Yeager

I made a small platform that fit over the IT which allowed me to put 1" strips of oak on the platform to support each of the bricks. For the 11th course I put screws in them so I could adjust the pieces up a little bit. Then for the 12 th course I cut it so it was a perfect 8 piece ring that I didn't need to do much to fit in. It did this so quickly that only my wife managed to snap a picture of the sticks, but not the platform that allowed me to hold them up and swivel my IT.

Thomas

[UtahBeehiver]

The old stick tricks in combination with what JR said about a stiffer mortar worked for me. This area of the dome is slow and tedious. Don't rush it.

[Yeager]

Thanks guys!!!! This is really helpful! I will try these out. My frustration level was a little high yesterday and good to hear others had challenges here also and pushed through it!

thanks,
Yeager

[Yeager]

Hey all,
I got my 10th row up today (and the starter for my 11th and final row). I ended up getting some 5 gallon paint sticks from Home Depot, cutting notches in them, and waiting 1.5 days for the starter brick to bond before touching it. With waiting a little longer for it to cure and the sticks it was fairly easy - thank you for all the help!

Starting to think/work on the entryway and arch. I plan on having a heat transfer gap (1/4 inch around dome arch and a square (hollow) piece of stainless steel on the floor. If I do the heat gap that way is there any reason why I need to insulate the floor underneath?

[UtahBeehiver]

Like the Karate Kid movie saying............"patience grasshopper".

Most like not required if you have a heat break, If you have some letfover Ca Si board here's a good place to use it up though.

[Yeager]

Hey Guys,
Happy memorial day!!!! I have all things in place minus the keystone! (Going to let it all cure first!) I also took out my form for my inner arch and starting to cleanout the inside. It was my first good internal view that shows some of the gaps between bricks. Everything from 1/16" to 1/4". I don't feel I have a structural issue, but curious if I should go in and fill those gaps in? (I was thinking of using a tile grout float if it was recommended). I am very excited to start letting it cure so I can start building fires!

thanks!
Yeager

[UtahBeehiver]

Tile grout can't handle the heat of the inner arch. You can tuck and point the gaps with the same mortar you did the dome with. Need to do it before you fire the oven or the soot will not allow for good adhesion.

[Yeager]

Hi Utah,
Sorry.. I didn't explain well. What I was thinking of doing was using a grout float to fill the cracks using the home brew (making it a little wet). Thinking that might be easier to get the mortar in the cracks?

Is filling all the gaps necessary? What is the downside other than aesthetics?

[UtahBeehiver]

There is some school of thought that the point and tuck may eventually fall out and get in your food. I guess it is your decision. The inner arch joints will not be as obvious after a few firing since this are soots up quite of bit, it is also the inner arch and not the outer arch,.

[Yeager]

Had a great weekend with family and building! I ended up putting leftover concrete block from my stand next to arch wall to support outward pressure. It will be hidden behind the structure I am building so figured it would be easier than adding two more layers of brick. I just drilled a hole for rebar in each block hole and put in 24" rebar then filled each cavity with concrete to make sure it doesn't move,There is a 1/4 heat gap on the arch walls and will continue on the actual arch also. I still used insulating brick to keep the outward arch wall to prevent any heat transfer to wick into concrete stand.

On my internal dome picture you'll see some gaps on some of the upper brick. Unless you guys think I am crazy, I don't plan on filling them. I don't feel it is a structural issue and will have 3/4 - 1 inch mortar on top of the dome by the time I am finished. Thoughts?

As I plan out my stonework on my structure I am thinking of putting up hardiboard flush with my block/arch and then drilling screws for my lathe for scratchcoat into external arch/wall. Does that make sense or how should I plan for that?

thanks,
Yeager

[Yeager]

Here's a link to a video!

[RandyJ]

Hey Yeager it is looking great. I don't think I would worry about the gaps as you called them. I did not really go back in and add anything after I closed the dome. I also set my cement board flush with the edge of the stand. I did not do the whole lath and scratch cote. I was advised by someone on the forum I think it was Tscar to use polimer fortified thinset to adhere the stone work and I just went straight to the cement board. I did use cultured stone not real so I don't know what you are doing or if it would make a difference.

Randy

[Yeager]

Thanks Randy! I am using cultured stone as well. I noticed in your pictures you wrapped the chimney pipe in ceramic insulation where it goes throught the roof. Is there a shield or anything you can get or is that the standard way you put it through the plywood to the flashing? How did you design the steel framing on your roof? Did you go 24" on center? For the actuall roofing did you go plywood, watershield, tar paper, and then shingles?

thanks,
Yeager

[RandyJ]

Hi Yeager. I had a small extra pice of blanket left over and was a little close on the 2" eap so I decided to wrap the chimney with the blanket. I figured it couldn't hurt. I don't know if there is a shield you can get I would assume that there is but I did not go that way. I think that they make one for wood stove going through the roof. But I don't think you need to go that far. As for spacing on the roof it is 16" on center for the most part. I think I moved a few rafters around by the chimney but the rest is 16" on center. For the roof I think I did 1\2" plywood then did the whole roof in ice and water barrier. On a house you would just do a strip at the bottom then tar paper from there up. The then shingles. Make sure you use a starter row for the shingles. I know it sucks to buy a full roll but it is what you need. If you want I can look and see if I have mine still sitting on the shelf in the garage. I have no use for it.

Randy