Oven Build in Spring

[SableSprings]

I'm hoping your picture of the first course and arch bricks creates just an illusion showing you so close to that back wall. Mostly, I'm concerned about you having enough room to work the peel & pizza without whacking the wall behind you. You not only have to be able to have room in front of the oven for the full length of the peel, but at least a step or two more to swing it out and over to a prep surface. I hope I'm wrong here, but now's the time to think ahead and not get caught without enough working room.

[UtahBeehiver]

One of the posters, within the last year, posted a shareware site that had a link to this software. You can search through my posts where I commented on thanking him or her for providing the group the link.

[cbailey]

I moved the floor from the garage to the hearth this weekend. Completed the first course and first arch bricks. I'm hoping to work out the angles I need for the arch and cut a few in anticipation of getting back to the build this weekend.

I need some help in finding the AngleIzer software that is referenced in so many comments. I have the tool, but it did not come with a link to software. Google searches have been fruitless.

Thanks in advance.

[cbailey]

Thanks Russell and Joe for your help!

[Gulf]

Actually it is a big deal to keep it dry during the build if at all possible. But, as you know we want to be able dry it out should all else fail. With the collective minds on this forum, we have come a long way with this idea in the last few years. Elevating the insulation with a non-moisture wicking material and strategic drainage holes is the best way to go imo. Of course, a tarp and an ease-up tent will help you get thrrough the winter.

[UtahBeehiver]

I see I was asked a question that I missed. The veneer bricks were just around the front vent area and I just used my regular home brew.

The current thought process on keeping the CaSi from absorbing water from hearth are 1. put weep holes in the hearth so if any water do accumulate it can egress out, 2. raise the CaSi so it does not sit directly on the hearth, tiles, paver blocks both spaced so water can move to weep holes or in my case I used FoamGlas as my base layer of insulation (it will not absorb water but is every bit as expensive as CaSi. David S also suggests sloping the hearth during the pour so any water moves outwards. Water saturated CaSi is one of the most common problems with poor oven performance so I suggest you look closely at these alternatives and chose what work best for your.

[cbailey]

Thank you Gulf. Good point. But at some point that will be sealed. Or am I over thinking this and it's just not that big of a deal?

[Gulf]

Just about any thing that you do to seal the insulation could also trap water inside.
Russell may have not noticed the question directed to him. This UtahBeehiver should give him an alert.

[cbailey]

Anyone who knows Houston understands it rains. A lot. Even though I will cover the build water has a way of intrusion. I'm concerned about the CaSi getting wet. Any thoughts on waterproofing agent that could be painted on ( like foundation waterproofing) or smeared on (like silicone). Russell, I saw that you affixed a course of thin brick on your base. Did you use mortar or another bonding agent?

Thanks.

[cbailey]

Addition to my last post. I'll remove the cardboard between the brick and CaSi when I move the floor to the hearth.

[cbailey]

I reworked the brick placement to avoid the small triangle bricks abutting the landing bricks. I like this much more. I kept the herringbone for the cook area, but adjusted as needed to avoid small bricks around the perimeter that will be under the first course of the dome. Unfortunately, I ended up with 2 small bricks. I have an idea how to avoid those. I just need to think outside the box, or in the case outside 4.5" and 9" dimensions.

Thanks JR for the link. I'm been trying to figure out how to attach the pencil to the end of my IT. You gave me the solution.

Similar to you, I cut out brick templates from cardboard, rather than from 2x6s, to figure some of the brick placements. It helped me to avoid a lot of mistakes, but not all.

I made a template out cardboard that also helped with placement. Actually 2. I used one under the brick to protect the CaSi, and one on top to help with alignment and placement of the IT.

[JRPizza]

I could avoid having small pieces around the periphery of my floor as I wanted it to be round and not have excess brick projecting out from under the dome, but I found a way to eliminate them at the entrance to the oven. Check out the pictures at the attached link in posts #8 and 11.
https://community.fornobravo.com/for...379#post380379

[cbailey]

Thanks Mike!

[SableSprings]

Keeping small pieces out of the floor is a smart move. Several years ago it was suggested that the herringbone pattern was started just after the landing bricks by cutting the small projecting corners. You appear to have several half-bricks up front and your cardboard template looks like you will have several small brick pieces at the opening. Take out the half bricks (4 on the left side) and replace them with full length bricks. Draw & cut straight across to give yourself a "solid" line that can butt against the landing bricks. It's better to shorten your entry or lengthen your landing to maximize the brick lengths for the herringbone (IMHO). I have the smaller herringbone pieces up front and although they have not caused me any problems over the years, I do wish I'd had the advice to maximize brick lengths up front.

[cbailey]

I'm re-thinking the floor. Currently I have small triangular bricks filling the space between the landing bricks and the herringbone pattern of the oven floor. I'm thinking that those small triangular bricks would be subject to a lot of wear over time. Basically, they are a quarter of a brick. If you cut a brick in half (leaving a 4.5" x 4.5" block) and then cut that block on the diagonal. Would it be better to cut the same triangle off a full size brick? What would leave a approximately a 3/4 size brick with a diagonal cut on the end that abuts with the landing brick. See the attached photos. I've cut cardboard to represent the bricks as they are currently, and proposed. Am I OK with the smaller triangle bricks? Or, should I change?