Oven Build in Spring

[cbailey]

I'm taking a day off and working on the vent arch. Of course, the brick dimensions are not ending up where I want them to be, so I'll be making a few extra cuts. I have a question regarding the size of the vent opening. I know I saw a recommended vent opening area based upon the size of the oven, but I can't find it. I plan on using a 6" flue, should be adequate for a 36 inch oven. That has an internal area of 28.28 sq. inches. Am I ok with a vent opening of 50 sq. inches? It's rectangular, but I plan on squaring up the vent (similar to most other builds) with a few courses of brick to better transition to the chimney/flue. Just need to check with the experts, Utahbeehiver, Gulf, JRPizza, etc. for you educated opinion.

Many thanks,

Cory

[JRPizza]

Sounds like a good curing plan. I progressed to hotter fires prior to putting on my insulation. Not sure that is the reason I have a crack in the back of my oven, but if I had it to do over again.....

[cbailey]

Thank you! It was very satisfying to close the dome. Even more satisfying that the whole thing didn't collapse when I dropped the support!

Regarding the curing fires, I've seen people start them immediately, some cover them with the insulating blanket first and then start their curing fires. I'm starting with low level fires around 175 - 200 degrees F. using charcoal briquets. Once visible signs of moisture are gone all start cranking the heat over a 10 period. 300 degrees first day, 350 second, and so on up to full firing. I'll install the insulating blanket once the overt signs of moisture are gone. Many believe (and it makes sense) that the insulating blanket will allow the brick to warm uniformly, rather than a large temperature gradient between the inside of the brick and outside.

Onward to the exterior arch...

[MickyPizza]

Great work lad! Ive just got to the same stage yesterday too. Shouldn't you be careful on the fires though? I thought best practice was to let it sit for a week to dry out naturally? Thats what Im gonna do. Your oven looks wayyy better than mine mind. Very neat brick work and construction.

[cbailey]

Thanks for the compliment JR. I appreciate it.

[JRPizza]

Looks really good! Folks always say nobody looks inside, but you probably will every time you are firing your oven and you check to see if the dome clears. Your workmanship will bring a smile to your face

[cbailey]

I dropped the platform and went after any gaps in the interior of the dome. Luckily, there were not many. I should have built a 42" dome, if only to give me another inch in the arch to fit through. It was a tight fit. I would have hated to do this in the summer.

I started the first curing fire at a low level, 200 degrees, using charcoal briquets. Once the visible signs of moisture are gone I'll crank up the heat over the following 10 days.

[cbailey]

Many thanks, Russell.

[UtahBeehiver]

Congrats on completing the dome

[cbailey]

Houston, The Dome is closed!

Following Gulf's advice, I mortared each brick, trying to eliminate the voids at the bottom. I dry fitted the course and mortared them individually while the rest of the un-mortared course was still in place. In this way I was successful in avoiding "mortar creep". With a couple of taps the keystone found it's home and I backfilled with a grout bag and putty knife.

[cbailey]

Hi Joe,

Like all new undertakings, once completed it seems logical, straightforward, and easy. However, while in the process its more like "what the best thing do I do now?" I appreciate the guidance and support. I will also crack a beer and see if I can stream a little Bobby McFarren!

All good,

Cory

[Gulf]

Hi Cory,

I'm sorry about the late reply. I'm not sure how far along you are on this, so my reply may be all for naught. But, here goes.

First of all, relax. You've got this. Your cuts have all been made and have been dry fitted.

I agree with mortaring in place to a degree. The disc (with the precuts) allowed me to quickly place each brick. When doing that, I made sure that the lower portion of the dome brick were complete with mortar and had no voids. There sometimes would be a void near the top once the brick was pressed into place. I disregarded the void and concentrated on placing another brick to complete the course. The goal is to have no voids on the inside of the dome. The disc allows for a quick placement with not having to place a stick or hold each brick into place for a few seconds. Seconds count when laying brick imo. By now, you probably have noticed just how fast mortar can go from the "peanut butter" to "cold modeling clay" consistency. If you can't complete the dome in one session, finish that course, point the outside, drop the platform, and go inside to clean up. Drink a beer, some sweet tea, or the beverage of your choice, and come back refreshed on the next session .

I hope that this helps.

[cbailey]

Thank you JR. I'm leaning that way. I think it was Les in Carson City that had an incredibly tight build, but back filled with a mortar bag for the horizontal spaces between courses (there were no vertical spaces, his build was tight!).

I'm also appreciate Russell's concern regarding not being able to see the mortar joints.

Cory

[JRPizza]

I'd recommend mortaring in place - it's your best chance to get uniform fill (I think). If your bricks are relatively dry and your mortar a little wet you should be able to press and hold and maybe not even need to support the bricks while they cure.

[cbailey]

I remember reading that in your build, and the narrow IT variation you created. Thank you for your help.

Cory