Oven Build in Spring

[UtahBeehiver]

In my pics, I originally started with a plywood disk but ended up abandoning the idea for mortaring bricks in place because of the following reasons, first, with the disk in place I could not see the joints and to ensure that the joints would stagger, just cause the look good on the exterior did not mean they work good on the interior, second, with the disk in place, I could not clean the joints or confirm that I had a full mortar joint either. The last few course I resorted to a simple notched stick to hold the brick until set then did another one, etc, but it was a slow process. BTW, your dry fit bricks look nice and uniform.

[cbailey]

Made some good progress this weekend. I hope to complete the dome before Superbowl. Course 9 and 10 were 1/3 blocks. Course 11 and 12 were 1/4 blocks. I was hoping to be able to fashion a keystone after course 11, but the distance was too great, 5 3/4 inches. So, a course 12. Like Gulf I shaved down the bricks on course 12 to (in my case) 2 inches, which allowed for a proper keystone. Also heeding Gulf warning, I cut a hole in the disc for 11 and 12 for excess mortar when setting the keystone

I have a question for the cumulative brain trust of the Forum, Gulf, Karangi Dude, Utahbeehiver, etc.,for an opinion and guidance. After mortaring in course 10 as usual, should I dry fit 11 and 12 and back fill with mortar? Or mortar each in place?

Light at the end of the tunnel, and I don't think it's a train!

Cory

[cbailey]

JR,

I'm sure you're right. The weather has been variable here. Last weekend the mornings were bouncing around freezing, and the mortar was not setting as quickly. The devil on my left shoulder was telling me all would be OK. That the mortar would set and hold as I worked through the chain. The angel on my right shoulder told me I was a dumb a@$ for listening (I have a vulgar angel). So, due to an abundance of caution, and hating to do anything over, I opted for the brackets.

I'm sure that if I was working in a warm, humid, spring day that the mortar would set more quickly. Being a novice I just didn't know.


Mike,

Thanks for the tip. I've seen sand forms before, but not in the limited way you made it work. It's a great option to have, if plan B doesn't work out.

Cory

[cbailey]

Thanks Chach! Your outdoor kitchen look fabulous. I'm looking forward to following your oven build when you thaw out this spring. Did you get above zero today? Stay warm.

[SableSprings]

Cory, another idea to possibly help is to fill some plastic bags with sand and put them on top of your platform. Next, spread some damp sand over the top to imitate the inner dome arch. This allows you to set the bricks in place with the sand supporting them. It goes faster and you have a lot less sand to clear out when you are done. Be aware that once the keystone is set, your dome will be very stable. You can remove the sand & platform pretty quickly to clean up any mortar on that inside upper dome.

Here's a link to the pictures of my build using this technique...also notice that I just used some bricks to support the platform and a piece of Styrofoam to better conform to the opening.

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...022#post387022

[JRPizza]

I guess I got lucky in that I was able to find a consistency of mortar where I just buttered up my bricks and pressed them into place with the IT. Was able to do my build without a platform or clamps.

[Chach]

Looks great!

[cbailey]

Hey Doug,

Thanks for the guidance. I really appreciate it. I hadn't thought of setting brick with the IT before positioning the disc.

Cory

[Karangi Dude]

Hey Cory,

Nice looking oven you are building, and the use of those clamps (brackets) is a good idea I have used similar myself on some of the consulting builds that I have done.
The platform on the jack works well, as you go to the next course you will need to cut the platform disc down to suit see, https://community.fornobravo.com/for...324#post155324
Cheers Doug

[cbailey]

Taking the lead from Utah Beehiver and Gulf (who credits Karangi Dude) I’ve taken out the IT and replaced with a platform. I have an old 5 ton hydraulic jack. I created a platform that provides a solid base. No wiggle room. I cut the platform to just catch about ½ inch of the brick. I didn’t want to extend to, or under, course 9. I don’t want to dislodge work I’ve already completed.

[cbailey]

Completed course 9 over the weekend. Getting pretty steep, but the clamps worked well. I had to hold the brick in place for a few minutes with the IT before carefully replacing the IT with a clamp.

Edit: You probably noticed, but I transition to 1/3 bricks in the 9th course.

I’ve include several photos of construction of course 8 and 9.

[cbailey]

I’ve made pretty good progress in the last few weeks. The progress is always about half of what I want to accomplish, but such is life. I’m going to divide things up in 3 different posts. This being the first

I made an update to my saw jig. I’ve replaced using shims with two 5/16^th by 20 bolts. The nut on the underside sets the height (or depth) of the angle while the wing nut on the top side locks it into place. I can better control the angle of the cut with a greater accuracy and repeatability. Its easy to make adjustments. With 20 threads per inch 1/16” is 1.25 turns of the nut.

[cbailey]

I made some progress this weekend. Transitioned the arch with course 6 and completed course 7, however it was too dark when I finished to get a good photo.

The sixth course transition the arch. I have to thank the forum for warning about the arch droop. I was able to transition with only about 1/16th inch droop.

I used Sten's Dome Claw idea to help hold course 7 bricks in place. I had more success with using steel from Simpson Strong Ties than with bar aluminum. The steel is more forgiving and acts as a spring.

It looks like it may freeze a few time over the next week. The temperatures have been low here, 40s to 50s, and has really slowed the initial grab with the mortar on brick. The Claw's have helped a lot. I've place a work light in the dome to add some heat and a blanket over it to maintain it. Hopefully I'll get a strong cure.

More work on it this weekend.

[cbailey]

I made some progress over the weekend. Did not transition the arch, as was my original goal. But did install the keystone in the arch, completed the fifth course and started the 6 course.

I made a right and left jig to help with the brick cuts. Originally, I wasn't going to get too concerned with inverted V's, etc. However, The big gaps just did not look right. I wanted a jig that would be waterproof. I picked up a couple of cheap cutting board at Walmart ($0.99 each), and some 3/4 inch aluminum angle to use as a brick stop. The black line through the middle indicates the width of the brick, 4.5 inches. By dry fitting 1/2 bricks you can measure the width of the V at the widest point. Divide that number by 2 and you get the shim that must be placed beneath the black line. I've been using 3/16th inch plywood, popsicle type mixing sticks, etc. to achieve the required space or lift. It works quite well, and cleans up easily.

As we all have found, the saw gets quite dirty, particularly when trimming brick. I've been using a typical gardening pump sprayer to rinse off the tray when ever needed. It uses far less water than a garden hose, so it doesn't fill up the water catch tray, and it keeps the work area dry.

[UtahBeehiver]

FYI,

Keep the tapered arch bricks ahead of the dome bricks, much easier to mate into the arch.