Oven Build in Spring

[cbailey]

Started course 5. Hoping to transition the arch this weekend.

[cbailey]

I picked up Whitaker -Greer firebrick today. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! the WG brick is uniform on all sides, free from chips, and overall superior in every respect to the Butler brick that is commonly available in Texas. I've attached several side by side photos.

I wish I had this brick from the beginning. I would have not had any issues with leveling the floor.

I'm looking forward to at least a day and a half of clear building weather here in Houston. I would have stated 2 days, but I have to fit in some golf.

[cbailey]

I am unhappy with the Butler firebrick I am using. The factory edges are generally badly chipped, making them less that desirable any points that will be visible. I'm currently on the 4th course. It will not be long before I'll need to start cutting 1/3 brick. I won't be able to use the Butler brick. I have access to Whitaker-Greer brick. I cannot find anyone in the Houston area that carries Alsey firebrick. What other firebrick manufacturers are available?

cory

[UtahBeehiver]

You can do one of three things to correct the 1/2" over hang at top dead center, adjust you IT all thread outwards so the bottom of the IT bracket hits the top of the arch for, or draw a line from the arch form to the 90 degree angle point or lastly, leave it as is. Remember, that each brick either side of TDC is slightly different and you really cannot but them all the same. The most critical angle is the top angle of the tapered arch brick since this the mating point between the dome and the tapered arch.

[cbailey]

Completed course 2 over the weekend, except for the arch tie in. Apologies for the shadows. In using the IT to determine the cuts for the inner arch blocks, it looks like the top dead center brick/keystone will extend approximately 1/2 inch further into the dome than the base arch bricks. Makes sense. The dome is curving away from vertically built arch.

I'm mildly concerned about the quality of the firebrick I'm using. It is made by Butler. I've read a few comments about it being too porous. It leaves a nice smooth cut using the brick saw. However, if leaves a very porous surface when I use a grinder to shape a brick. Is their any experience with this brick long term? Does it degrade faster than other bricks?

[cbailey]

LeeBird,

Thank you for you suggestions. I agree with you on looking for tight tolerances with the brick facing the oven. However, I'm not looking to build a mortar-less dome. They are beautiful, and a testament to skill and perseverance. What I've gleaned from reading dozens of builds is that a minimalist approach to mortar joints will reduce cracking, but cracking still occurs. Cracked domes will still provide years of service. For function, I'm not sure the effort is worth the time.

Just my humble opinion.

That said I would like to avoid gaps over 1/2 inch if at all possible. Also from what I've read, most mortar mixes don't recommend large gaps (greater than 1/2 inch, for example). More so for refractory mortar joints. I don't know how Homebrew performs in filling large gaps. But I think it is reasonable to assume larger gaps are less than ideal. So I plan to trim bricks as needed to meet that goal.

At this point I may trim the arch bricks. I've worked out the angles, but was interested in the AngleIzer to verify my calculations.

I know Huntsville. Beautiful valley. Used to ski Snow Basin, water ski on Pineview, and frequent the Shooting Star.

[UtahBeehiver]

The Anglelizer works really good for determining how to make the brick taper for a user defined joint width based on arch height and width and size of brick. I am not talking about the tapered "inner" portion of the inner arch only the face of the arch.


I agree with Mike that the best solution is a pivot point at floor elevation and Gulf's solution of removing a brick and placing a wood block is a good solution.

[cbailey]

Thanks Mike! Great suggestions and direction. Not much I can do until the weekend. I have family in town for the Holidays. I must play the host. However, the weather looks good for the weekend. I hope to make some progress, post a few pics and ask more questions.

Cory

[SableSprings]

As Russell pointed out, not having the the pivot point of your IT at floor level will make for a bit of readjustments as you go up the dome. I noticed that you are pretty much at the end of your threaded stock adjustment in the turnbuckle. Here's a link to Gulf's solution (I think it's about post three on the thread).

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ppi-44?t=17062

So, popping out the center floor brick to lower your IT's pivot point like Gulf did is a pretty simple solution to the problem (and the best IMHO ). Next best option would be to cut down your thread stock to allow more adjustment at the turnbuckle. Looking good so far!

Also, here's another great spreadsheet for angles and brick counts created by DeeJayOh

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...=1545242023988

p.s. I do not have the Angle Izer software in my archived files. Actually, I think you can get pretty good results setting the angle on the tool from your base brick to "angle transfer" to the brick that needs the cut. Also, I found that the pencil line on a brick being cut with a wet saw gets washed away pretty easily...magic marker works better if you want to see the line throughout the cutting process.

[cbailey]

I've been wondering how the raised pivot point is going to work out. The caster I am using results in a pivot point 1 1/8 inches from the floor. The 1/4 inch plywood I'm using is actually 3/16ths. My resulting pivot point is 1 5/16ths inches above the floor. It looks like I have 2 options. 1. I can rework my IT, before I start on the second course, or 2. make the adjustments around the tapered arch you mention above. In your experience, which option do you suggest?

I'm familiar with Morgan and Hwy 84. Beautiful area.

[LeeBird]

Cory, I might be confused at the term “tapered”. I believe I built a tapered arch, However I did not taper each individual arch brick to limit my use of mortar.I am referring to your previous post #24 where you said you have cut the first arch bricks and hoping to work out the angles so you can cut a few in anticipation. In my mind and on my build I cut 14 identical arch bricks, that look exactly like the two arch bricks you have pictured in post #24. I dry stacked them on the arch form and adjusted my wood arch form up or down so the joints are tight on the underside. I wanted little or no mortar on the inside where the heat is, but didn’t care how fat the Mortar joint is on the outside.
I live in Huntsville, Ut

[UtahBeehiver]

FYI, the best placement for the pivot point for the IT is at floor elevation. Since your is raised off the floor by the thickness of the wood (I did this too but learned later the issues) it will affect the radius of the dome as you move up. You will have to made some length adjustments at the taper arch area to makes all the angles mate. Not a big deal but something you need to be aware of when the IT is not flush with the floor. I worked a little with Lee on his build, helping with some CaSi blanket and some SS sheeting. He lives in the Morgan area.

[cbailey]

Mike, the photo does look like the back wall is very close. I do have enough space to work a peel. There is 7 feet and change from the landing to the garage wall. There is 4 feet from the landing to the back of the oven. I have 3 feet to spare.

Thank you for the link. I'll check it out. Also JR Pizza's. I missed that build. I appreciate the help immensely.

Lee, thanks for the input. I agree with you regarding the tapered arch approach tying into the dome. Like most contemplating a build I was uncomfortable with the FB instructions, particularly in describing the dome to inner arch connection. It wasn't until I found this forum, and the tapered arch concept demonstrated in Russell's, John's, and other builds, that it all began to make sense. It really was an "ah hah" moment.

Looking at your photos that is a gorgeous build! I love the keystone in the outer arch. I can't tell from the photos, but which approach did you take? Did you taper the bricks, using a minimalist approach to mortar?

I grew up in SLC. Where is Mountain Valley? Heber?

Thanks,

Cory

[LeeBird]

Are you trying to build the inner arch with minimal/uniform shaped mortar joints? In my opinion you don’t need to be so fussy on the inner arch, it will be mostly covered by the outer arch and insulation. I am not a mathematician, so I came up with a template for the inner arch brick just like you. I cut them all and dry stacked them with wedges and moved my arch form up or down so they are tight on the inside with full brick/no cuts. I made sure that the height of arch and height of dome were within recommended ratio and mortared the arch first before the dome. Then I set my IT to follow my arch at the desired radius and the dome came together. And the outer arch covered the fat joints. Now, if you don’t like fat joints, I would address that issue at the outer arch.
My two cents
LeeP

[SableSprings]

Here's the link to the post Russell referred to for the Angle Izer software (not the first link...go down to post #4).

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ndows-software

I tried the link in this thread and although it connects to the web archive site, my system says something like "Failed Network Error - unable to read file". It might simply might be some temporary glitch or something on my system. I'll keep trying. Possibly one of our members has the zip file in their archive...I'll check mine a bit later for you.

Also, check out JRPizza's very useful spreadsheet (noted in post #6 in that same thread).