Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

42 Pompeii in San Felipe, MX

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Thanks David S. I’m assuming that I should shoot for 2” thick using 3:1:1:1, no rebar? I don’t have access to styrofoam blocks. What about making the form out of thin plywood and an 8” tube? I was thinking that if I split the tube vertically in two places I could get it out easily... especially if there was some sort of anti-bonding agent I could put on the tube and plywood. Or, I could go on a scavenger hunt and find some foam.

    Thoughts?
    Mikie V.

    Comment


    • Just wrap a few layers of plastic around the pipe for easy removal. It is best to make it a slightly loose fit to accomodate an expanding flue pipe.3:!:1:1 home-brew should be ok as the flue gallery doesn't get that hot (the black soot won't burn off there. Get some castable refractory if you want it more durable. 1.5" should be plenty thick enough. Do not try to reinforce it with rebar. The steel will expand faster than the surrounding refractory and result in cracking.
      Click image for larger version  Name:	P6060733.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	337.5 KB ID:	419466 Click image for larger version  Name:	P2160559.jpg Views:	0 Size:	244.1 KB ID:	419467
      Last edited by david s; 02-13-2020, 01:24 AM.
      Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

      Comment


      • Thanks David s. I really appreciate your knowledge and helpfulness. Couple things, one is I’m wanting to mount an adapter plate so I’m gonna want either bolt holes or cast the plate directly into the casted vent. Also, my vent area is not a straight up wall. It is a like my inner arch only bigger to allow for the door reveal. I really think I can make this happen going with the casting method. I’m gonna try anyway.

        Comment


        • The first pic shows how the anchor plate can be trimmed so it can be fitted in place during casting. The second pic shows the method I use which does not require an anchor plate. I do pack around the junction with 5:1 vermicrete, which is sufficiently strong enough to hold it in place, but still allows for easy removal should the pipe need relocation or replacement.
          Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

          Comment


          • I cast my arch with the flue gallery then mortared it place. I built brick sides and mortared the flue/ arch right on top.
            My Build Pictures
            https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%...18BD00F374765D

            Comment


            • Man, I should have been done with this project by now. But here we are. I spent 2 days building this arch form and I’m still not happy with it. I’m going with it at this point as my patience has run it’s course. I know it looks unconventional, but it is what it is. What a pain in the tail.

              I had originally planed to make 5 identical plywood forms and link them together. I ran out of plywood and honestly, the plywood here just sucks. In the end I decided to go with 2 forms and span it with 2mm plywood I salvaged from the back of some kitchen cabinets I tore out of the kitchen. I had to trim the plywood arches to make room for the extra 2mm on each side... ughhhhh!!!! I missed it and had to run a borrowed belt sander on that thin plywood to make it fit. I just couldn’t make it work and ended up knocking a the bottom bricks off of the left side. The good news is those bricks were major league glued on. I guess this home brew does work.

              I was trying to make the laying of the arch “idiot proof” with the horizontal lines. Easy-Peasy. NOT. Seems all that work with the aggressive belt sander changed the radius of the inner and outer plywood forms. The circumference differential is nearly 1/2”. Man, it really multiplied.

              Bottom line is I am gonna wing it. It will be fine and no one but you and I will know it. I will just have to adjust as I go up. Still planning to pour the flue after I get up to L7 & R7.

              Thanks for following along. I’m so ready to be done with this project. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
              Mikie V.

              Comment


              • Question: Can I lay tile on the outside of outer arch for decoration? Worried that the heat might pop the tile off. Was hoping to use local tiles like the one pictured. Special thinset I suspect?

                Comment


                • Insulate and stucco over that to form a strong shell on which to apply the tiles.
                  Joe Watson " A year from now, you will wish that you had started today" My Build Album / My Build

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by modified9v View Post
                    Question: Can I lay tile on the outside of outer arch for decoration? Worried that the heat might pop the tile off. Was hoping to use local tiles like the one pictured. Special thinset I suspect?
                    I was concerned about this problem the first time I attempted it too. Since then I’ve done lots with no problems, although in my design my outer decorative arch does not contact the flue gallery. It is separated by either 8 mm insulation at floor level, or by a similar sized air gap at the sides and top. This allows for free expansion of the inner parts of the oven and also reduces conduction to the outer decorative arch. Make sure you use a good quality outdoor adhesive (I use mono flex, but that brand may not be available in your part of the world). Also use glossy tiles which will clean off beautifully and a black grout.
                    Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X